kieseki
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- May 16, 2020
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- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
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- Jeep Wrangler JL Overland
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- #1
I wanted to share some information on replacing the 12V batteries on the RHD JL for Australian owners. This isn't a step-by-step guide, as it's essentially the same as the LHD process other than how the auxiliary battery is accessed.
Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.
Unlike the LHD models, you will not need to remove the Power Control Box or the fender flare to access the auxiliary battery.
Replacement batteries that fit
For the main battery, I went with the Century ISS Active Stop/Start Car Battery DIN65LH AGM MF (720CCA 70AH). I chose it mainly for convenience as SupercheapAuto had it in stock (Aussie freight network is a nightmare right now), but also, it's a decent brand. This is a H6 battery, which is essentially the same size as the factory battery. The dimensions are 276L x 175W x 190H. I believe you can fit a longer H7 sized battery (e.g. Century DIN75LH AGM MF 800CA 80AH) as there is some spare room on the battery tray adjacent to the firewall.
For the auxiliary, I went with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH), which is an AUX14 group sized battery. This is essentially the same size as the factory auxiliary battery. Unlike the main battery, there is less flexibility on size with the auxiliary; the bottom of the auxiliary battery lid has a protruding part that pushes against the recessed area of the battery's top to stop it from moving. So a smaller battery than AUX14 would bounce around, whereas a bigger battery will not fit in the compartment.
I should also note that I did not need to remove and redeploy the E6 torx battery terminal studs and nuts from the factory auxiliary battery. When the torx studs are fitted onto the Katana's terminals, they will sit higher than that of the factory battery, which would stop the lid from closing. However, the Katana battery comes with its own terminal nuts and bolts that worked just fine to reconnect the factory positive and negative wiring, so I used these instead.
TLDR summary
If your RHD JL's batteries are dying, especially due to COVID lockdowns over the last 18 months, you can easily replace them yourself. The process is not as complicated as LHD models because there is no need to remove the PCB or fender flare.
In terms of dimensions, you should aim to get an H6 or H7 equivalent main battery, and an AUX14 auxiliary battery.
Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.
Unlike the LHD models, you will not need to remove the Power Control Box or the fender flare to access the auxiliary battery.
Replacement batteries that fit
For the main battery, I went with the Century ISS Active Stop/Start Car Battery DIN65LH AGM MF (720CCA 70AH). I chose it mainly for convenience as SupercheapAuto had it in stock (Aussie freight network is a nightmare right now), but also, it's a decent brand. This is a H6 battery, which is essentially the same size as the factory battery. The dimensions are 276L x 175W x 190H. I believe you can fit a longer H7 sized battery (e.g. Century DIN75LH AGM MF 800CA 80AH) as there is some spare room on the battery tray adjacent to the firewall.
For the auxiliary, I went with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH), which is an AUX14 group sized battery. This is essentially the same size as the factory auxiliary battery. Unlike the main battery, there is less flexibility on size with the auxiliary; the bottom of the auxiliary battery lid has a protruding part that pushes against the recessed area of the battery's top to stop it from moving. So a smaller battery than AUX14 would bounce around, whereas a bigger battery will not fit in the compartment.
I should also note that I did not need to remove and redeploy the E6 torx battery terminal studs and nuts from the factory auxiliary battery. When the torx studs are fitted onto the Katana's terminals, they will sit higher than that of the factory battery, which would stop the lid from closing. However, the Katana battery comes with its own terminal nuts and bolts that worked just fine to reconnect the factory positive and negative wiring, so I used these instead.
TLDR summary
If your RHD JL's batteries are dying, especially due to COVID lockdowns over the last 18 months, you can easily replace them yourself. The process is not as complicated as LHD models because there is no need to remove the PCB or fender flare.
In terms of dimensions, you should aim to get an H6 or H7 equivalent main battery, and an AUX14 auxiliary battery.
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