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Axle Truss - When/Why would I use one?

ChattVol

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Yeah I watch his stuff. He's a great fabricator, with more skills than I have to be able to do tons on the cheap.

I do agree on weight, in that I don't want to keep adding any that I don't have to. Another reason I'm not using bead locks and keeping to 315/70R17's vs running up to 37's.
Why would you need to run a truss if you are running lighter weight 315/70/17 milestars on non beadlocks?
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sourdough

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Nah...put the stickies on Litebrite's rig and it walks up it.
I would suggest the 4 dr. break over angle was an issue but it's all a guess, not a science. Love liteBrites rig. BTW met them in MOAB last year, beautiful peeps and wish them only the best.
 
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ChattVol

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My thoughts.
I was referring to your earlier post saying your "dilemma is the truss. Do I really need that? I'll be regearing and likely pay a shop for that. Might as well get it all done at once."

What has you thinking that you may need a truss with your setup? Are you planning on going with bigger tires?
 

Krondor

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I was referring to your earlier post saying your "dilemma is the truss. Do I really need that? I'll be regearing and likely pay a shop for that. Might as well get it all done at once."

What has you thinking that you may need a truss with your setup? Are you planning on going with bigger tires?
My heavy foot.

More than likely I'll mitigate that with some air bumps and better shocks, but I don't want to worry when I get to some dunes or nice dirt roads with water crossings. I'm likely to get on it a bit and that can stress the axle. Maybe.
 

Az-jewel

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I just had a truss put on my front axle (D30). I also had lockers done and was regearing so the labor savings helped. It’s very rocky out here in AZ and there have been several broken axles in a few of my FB Jeep groups. I can’t afford the full axle upgrade, but chose to truss it as extra insurance.
 

1996cc

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When comparing build costs, don’t forget the value of selling your stock front axle to recoup some costs. My money is going towards an Ultimate 44.

I’d love to go the ProRock route, but Dynatrac seems set on taking people back to JK gears and doesn’t have a locker option that will plug into factory Rubicon wiring.
 

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scrape

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When comparing build costs, don’t forget the value of selling your stock front axle to recoup some costs. My money is going towards an Ultimate 44.

I’d love to go the ProRock route, but Dynatrac seems set on taking people back to JK gears and doesn’t have a locker option that will plug into factory Rubicon wiring.
And with the PR44 you are locked in to fully custom axle shafts. Knowing Dynatrac that’s probably a 6-8 week lead time if you need one.

UD44 is semi-custom as well since they are the only ones doing 1410s. But any 1 pc aftermarket rubi shaft will work in a pinch and the OEM drivers side will work as well.

And I suspect most aftermarket companies will expand their 1410 offerings since there is no reason at all to stick with 1350 if you’re getting a complete kit.
 

Remmy

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Just got her wrapped up Friday but took the stock Rubicon Axle and added the EVO Truss Kit, gussets skids exc. 5.13s and RCV Axle shafts....

Was planning on an Ultimate 44 but after seeing these results so far not sure the UD 44 has anything on this build. In addition I wanted to keep the FAD (RCVs for the win)

Dana Advantek Chromoly axle shafts in the rear pushing Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T 40x13.5s with Mopar Beadlocks. We'll see how it holds up but so far I'm loving the performance offroad and the substantial weight savings over a 1-ton build.

At this point I think the weak link is probably the Pinion gear but only time will tell.
 

rustyshakelford

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Just got her wrapped up Friday but took the stock Rubicon Axle and added the EVO Truss Kit, gussets skids exc. 5.13s and RCV Axle shafts....

Was planning on an Ultimate 44 but after seeing these results so far not sure the UD 44 has anything on this build. In addition I wanted to keep the FAD (RCVs for the win)

Dana Advantek Chromoly axle shafts in the rear pushing Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T 40x13.5s with Mopar Beadlocks. We'll see how it holds up but so far I'm loving the performance offroad and the substantial weight savings over a 1-ton build.

At this point I think the weak link is probably the Pinion gear but only time will tell.
Hard to pass up on the rear shafts for around $400 vs the $1800ish for the 300m rcv’s. Sounds like you set it up like I would’ve but with evo instead of artec!

Brett
 

ChattVol

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Just got her wrapped up Friday but took the stock Rubicon Axle and added the EVO Truss Kit, gussets skids exc. 5.13s and RCV Axle shafts....

Was planning on an Ultimate 44 but after seeing these results so far not sure the UD 44 has anything on this build. In addition I wanted to keep the FAD (RCVs for the win)

Dana Advantek Chromoly axle shafts in the rear pushing Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T 40x13.5s with Mopar Beadlocks. We'll see how it holds up but so far I'm loving the performance offroad and the substantial weight savings over a 1-ton build.

At this point I think the weak link is probably the Pinion gear but only time will tell.
What brakes are you running?
 

Remmy

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Stock Rubicon brakes (which are larger than the Sport/Sahara) I can tell a difference but they seem adequate...at least so far.
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