Axle Truss - When/Why would I use one?

Remmy

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FYI. Pretty sure Sahara has same brakes as Rubicon.

Makes sense loaded models are typically heavier...you’re probably more informed on the topic that I am. :)
 

Halstem1

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Just got her wrapped up Friday but took the stock Rubicon Axle and added the EVO Truss Kit, gussets skids exc. 5.13s and RCV Axle shafts....

Was planning on an Ultimate 44 but after seeing these results so far not sure the UD 44 has anything on this build. In addition I wanted to keep the FAD (RCVs for the win)

Dana Advantek Chromoly axle shafts in the rear pushing Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T 40x13.5s with Mopar Beadlocks. We'll see how it holds up but so far I'm loving the performance offroad and the substantial weight savings over a 1-ton build.

At this point I think the weak link is probably the Pinion gear but only time will tell.
Love this setup. Basically what I’m looking to get to. I’d really like to do my front RCVs and truss when I re-gear but those might come later.
 

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Love this setup. Basically what I’m looking to get to. I’d really like to do my front RCVs and truss when I re-gear but those might come later.
I'm fairly sure I'll do it all at once. If funds are tight I'll do the RCV's later myself, but I'll need help with trusses and regearing. :dunno:
 

Halstem1

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I'm fairly sure I'll do it all at once. If funds are tight I'll do the RCV's later myself, but I'll need help with trusses and regearing. :dunno:
I read that trusses are “cheaper” to have done when you do gears because they have easy access. Thats the next thing I’m saving for and like you will probably do RCV later too.
 

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I'm fairly sure I'll do it all at once. If funds are tight I'll do the RCV's later myself, but I'll need help with trusses and regearing. :dunno:
Are you now reconsidering staying with 35" tires?
 

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John actually blew up his axles with 35's, so RCV's are going to happen along with the gears. I really am finding it hard to decide between 4.88's and 5.12's. The only reason truss is in my mind is because I like to move it move it...


The driveshafts are done unless they blow up.. then maybe some Adam's 1310's... Lighter and much beefier than my little Jeep needs.
 

ChattVol

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John actually blew up his axles with 35's, so RCV's are going to happen along with the gears. I really am finding it hard to decide between 4.88's and 5.12's. The only reason truss is in my mind is because I like to move it move it...


The driveshafts are done unless they blow up.. then maybe some Adam's 1310's... Lighter and much beefier than my little Jeep needs.
Who is John? I'd like to see video of what he was doing to grenade rubi axles on 35s. There's always an outlier "hold my beer watch this" person.
 

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Who is John? I'd like to see video of what he was doing to grenade rubi axles on 35s. There's always an outlier "hold my beer watch this" person.
@jlopes68

I believe he does have a video of what did the deed.

 

jlopes68

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axle shafts break. that is part of their function. no amount of trusses will save your shafts. trussing is really only necessary if you are going to hard core rock crawl often. with the FAD my guess is ill buy another axle before i bother trussing this one. the tube has too many pieces already. just my $.02
 

jlopes68

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Who is John? I'd like to see video of what he was doing to grenade rubi axles on 35s. There's always an outlier "hold my beer watch this" person.
i agree, now hold my beer! And watch this! lol

 

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axle shafts break. that is part of their function. no amount of trusses will save your shafts. trussing is really only necessary if you are going to hard core rock crawl often. with the FAD my guess is ill buy another axle before i bother trussing this one. the tube has too many pieces already. just my $.02
Agreed...there are a lot of people wheelin halfway responsibly on 37s/38s with stock JL d44 axles without problems. Sounds like adding RCV's to the front and chromally shafts to the rear would be a worthwhile upgrade for long term peace of mind. Thoughts?

I've also read that welding on a truss properly is tougher than most think and many shops accidentally and unknowingly end up bending the axle. Considering having a shop add a truss is around $1000 per axle + $1200 for RCV's up front + $800-1000 to regear each axle....it's over $3k for most to have a front axle built in this manner. Considering you can probably sell the front stock axle for $1500, an ultimate 44 front for $4400 looks attractive when you consider it offers:
  • Heat-treated high-grade SAE-4340 nickel chromoly steel axle shaft offers superior abrasion resistance and strength, and uniform surface hardness
  • Thicker, 1/4″ steel bracket mounts
  • Upgraded u-joints outperform the competition, with Nm load ratings of 3000 (1350 series) and 3600 (1410 series)
  • Thicker 9.5mm tubes for added strength
  • Clearance increased by 1/2″ for brutal terrain
  • Expanded gear ratio options to accommodate different tire sizes
  • Bolt-in design
  • Smaller, 220mm ring gear than the gearing in Dana 44™ axles for greater strength
  • Track width is identical to OEM track width
  • No FAD (front axle disconnect) means increased strength
  • Aggressive nodular iron diff cover
 
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