Axle Truss - When/Why would I use one?

Dogboyslim

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I use my JLUR as a daily driver, but I'm also building it a bit to handle most of what my area has to handle. I'm only on 34" tires, but am contemplating 37 in a couple years when these need to be replaced. A few folks suggested I get an Axle Truss on the front to keep the FAD area from breaking when flexing it on bigger rocks. A few other folks then suggested that an Axle Truss will warp my axle housing and I should just stay away from them. Now I'm confused. Under what conditions would you consider an axle truss, and what cautions should I consider prior to moving ahead with one? Thanks!

Wheeling conditions are mud/rocks/hilly terrain (off-camber & up/down up to +- 30 degrees) & very tight tree-lined paths. Primary driving conditions are suburban, paved, with many large unruly parked SUVs and Pickups and a few random passenger cars.
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rustyshakelford

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I think they are cheap insurance. The FAD is the weak link in the axle and having a truss welded on correctly won’t warp the axle. It’s one of those things that just takes time and you can’t rush it. @Artec has in my opinion the best one on the market

Brett
 

OBJLU

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I bought one from Evo and had them install it when they did my regear, the only person I've heard talk about it warping the axle is wayoflife and that's probably because he got a prorock44.
 

4xnaz

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As mentioned before, it is a low cost insurance policy. I run trails in an area with large rocks and dry creek beds and with 38s on each corner, the truss gives me that extra confidence needed to attempt certain obstacles. Common sense trumps all armor and upgrades, however with the addition of this kit from Artec Industries, my concerns of trail damage lie elsewhere like, cutting a tire (did it), snapping an axle Ujoint (done), bent tie rod (check), or running out of beer (not yet).

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Az-jewel

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I'm doing a regear to 5.13s, so I'm going to do the @Artec truss. Ordered parts today, now I wait for everything to arrive and then we get to work!
I know this thread is older, but wanted to see how it went? im on 35’s, a manual Sport JLU, and regearing to 4.88 soon. I’m leaning toward trussing my axle and wanted to see how others have done with it. Appreciate any feedback!
 
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Dogboyslim

Dogboyslim

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I had a local mechanic do the work. While he had everything out of the housing, he welded on the truss. After everything cooled, he finished up the gear change. I don't notice any difference while driving, and my axle hasn't broken when wheeling, so ... Success?
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D60

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I am surprised that the Artec trusses appear to only be $100. That's quite affordable for what it is.

If you're not jumping your rig I'm struggling to see a benefit. Does anyone have compelling evidence of a housing snapping while crawling or at 4lo speeds?
 

Arrowhead

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I am surprised that the Artec trusses appear to only be $100. That's quite affordable for what it is.

If you're not jumping your rig I'm struggling to see a benefit. Does anyone have compelling evidence of a housing snapping while crawling or at 4lo speeds?
There have been some failures at the FAD, that seems to be the weak spot. I can see the potential for damage if you high center on as rock at the pumpkin, that puts a lot of bending force on the axle. A truss would help alleviate that risk
 

1996cc

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I think they are cheap insurance. The FAD is the weak link in the axle and having a truss welded on correctly won’t warp the axle. It’s one of those things that just takes time and you can’t rush it. @Artec has in my opinion the best one on the market

Brett
I like the look of the Artec and the lighter weight versus the EVO. But is 1/8” thick enough? I understand the dimple dies add strength, but still. (I’m no metal or welding expert, which is why I’m asking)
 

rustyshakelford

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I like the look of the Artec and the lighter weight versus the EVO. But is 1/8” thick enough? I understand the dimple dies add strength, but still. (I’m no metal or welding expert, which is why I’m asking)
Artec is one of the top brands and have done a tremendous amount of r&d for their trusses. It’s one of their bread and butter product lines. In my experience they nailed it and I don’t have any concerns of a truss failure when installed correctly. These aren’t something I’d suggest installing in your driveway though. When I do them, I’ll pull the axle out and do it on one of my fixture tables with custom axle stands. We sandblast all areas that are getting weld, you have to do pre and post heat on the cast steel sections and then allow it to slowly cool. The labor is a significant part of the cost but it’s certainly something you want done correctly

Brett
 

ChattVol

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Artec is one of the top brands and have done a tremendous amount of r&d for their trusses. It’s one of their bread and butter product lines. In my experience they nailed it and I don’t have any concerns of a truss failure when installed correctly. These aren’t something I’d suggest installing in your driveway though. When I do them, I’ll pull the axle out and do it on one of my fixture tables with custom axle stands. We sandblast all areas that are getting weld, you have to do pre and post heat on the cast steel sections and then allow it to slowly cool. The labor is a significant part of the cost but it’s certainly something you want done correctly

Brett
Good deal...how much do you charge for labor to add a front truss?
 

rustyshakelford

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Good deal...how much do you charge for labor to add a front truss?
Depending on what all has been done to Jeep that will take time to remove I’m usually around 7-8 hrs.

Brett
 

Therby

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Artec truss for me, on my M186
Doing the C gussets this weekend

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