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Axle Truss - When/Why would I use one?

21JLUR

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lol yeah I pretty much want to see how far I can take it.
2.75" tube size, same as stock. A bigger tube wouldn't change all the other weaknesses of the axle.
Thanks for the reply.
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J0E

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slight thread revival.
. Do I think a truss is needed on it? If you're doing massive amounts of crawling on 40s, yea sure.
It's the mass of the vehicle, especially sprung mass, that breaks the axle. It's skinny petal, not diameter of the wheels. Far different than the R X F = T (r cross F), lever bar that larger diameter tires have.
 

Rodeoflyer

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I was just discussing this the other day.. I'm somewhat of the belief if you truss the d44/210 and add CV axles or even chromo axles it's basically an ultimate 44 minus the added caster of the U44 and the upgraded 1/4 brackets. Basically 98% as strong as the upgrade axle tubes.

you'll prob need to weld the tubes and eliminate the FAD but yeah..

the 210 is T-U-F-F.. I've only seen one fail at the axle tubes or FAD, which welding the tubes would fix.

Thats also an awesome JL jlroman2.. good work brother!! you would be able to run that thing all over the mountains here in CO and the rocks in UT.
 

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Oh hell you have a sahara so a 186... wow yeah.
 

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Slight thread revival 2.0

what do you guys think of the axles on a 392, think it would be safe for 40s?
 

1996cc

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what do you guys think of the axles on a 392, think it would be safe for 40s?
Absolutely not. Here is my twisted upgraded chromoly shaft, courtesy of 470 horses… This was found when replacing the factory Elocker that also crapped the bed. And that’s all with 37”s.
Jeep Wrangler JL Axle Truss - When/Why would I use one? 1F504994-56B2-4B9F-AF85-C428D69766C2
 

SargeRubi3.0

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Absolutely not. Here is my twisted upgraded chromoly shaft, courtesy of 470 horses… This was found when replacing the factory Elocker that also crapped the bed. And that’s all with 37”s.
1F504994-56B2-4B9F-AF85-C428D69766C2.jpeg
Wow that sucks, I am on 37s km3’s currently. What made this happen? Was you on the skinny pedal hard ?
 

1996cc

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Wow that sucks, I am on 37s km3’s currently. What made this happen? Was you on the skinny pedal hard ?
There was no dramatic bang, etc. The locker was clicking and wouldn’t engage. I even drove an hour home. As far as the twisted splines, I didn’t buy a 392 to only use half the throttle ??‍♂
 
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J0E

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There was no dramatic bang, etc. The locker was clicking and wouldn’t engage. I even drove an hour home. As far as the twisted splines, I didn’t buy a 392 to only use half the throttle ??‍♂
That makes me feel better about running 38's on my 2.0L where I never bump it. I've got upgraded shafts but stock 4.10 diffs.

BTW, I bought a 2.0L to use 1/4th throttle, it's a nice crawler.

The locker was clicking and wouldn’t engage.

Air lockers would have engaged and you wouldn't know there was a problem. Air better :)
 

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I have 37s on my ecodiesel. I don't plan to rock crawl, but sometimes see deep hills and ruts, full flex, but I don't hit the skinny pedal much when offroading other than when I'm on sand or soft snow.
Will I need to truss my axles?
I see they're fairly cheap to buy, seems complicated to install though, shops charge a lot to install?
 

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I have 37s on my ecodiesel. I don't plan to rock crawl, but sometimes see deep hills and ruts, full flex, but I don't hit the skinny pedal much when offroading other than when I'm on sand or soft snow.
Will I need to truss my axles?
I see they're fairly cheap to buy, seems complicated to install though, shops charge a lot to install?
"Need" is a strong word. I don't know that I'd go that far.

For me, it's about insurance. I may be able to run 37s on the rocks in Moab for years trouble free. I personally chose to add the truss. It ensures that the weak points are reinforced. The inner C's, the FAD housing, and the differential itself are under built for abuse. Given the torque output of the diesel I don’t want to take the chance.

Is it over built? Probably.

Will it hold up to everything I will do? Absolutely.

Would it have held up without? Maybe.

I like to not have to deal with broken parts on the trails so the upgrade was worth it to me.

Did I need it? Only to satisfy my desire to be overly prepared.
 

JINO

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"Need" is a strong word. I don't know that I'd go that far.

For me, it's about insurance. I may be able to run 37s on the rocks in Moab for years trouble free. I personally chose to add the truss. It ensures that the weak points are reinforced. The inner C's, the FAD housing, and the differential itself are under built for abuse. Given the torque output of the diesel I don’t want to take the chance.

Is it over built? Probably.

Will it hold up to everything I will do? Absolutely.

Would it have held up without? Maybe.

I like to not have to deal with broken parts on the trails so the upgrade was worth it to me.

Did I need it? Only to satisfy my desire to be overly prepared.
You make good points.
I don't do heavy crawling, so I don't know what I should do.
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