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Axle Truss - When/Why would I use one?

Zandcwhite

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That's the boneyard on Gold Mountain, pretty sure that's just how that area of the trail looks. Multiple entrances/exits to the rock pile last time I was up there and traveling across it is permitted unless something changed in the last couple years.
According to the forest service, they don't want you out in the Rock piles anymore. People do it all the time, but that doesn't mean they should. Even in his video he has to turn around as the trail was blocked. He even says "it doesn't look like people go that way anymore". I'm guessing the trail didn't block itself, likely the forest service did it to keep people on the actual trail.
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jessedacri

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According to the forest service, they don't want you out in the Rock piles anymore. People do it all the time, but that doesn't mean they should. Even in his video he has to turn around as the trail was blocked. He even says "it doesn't look like people go that way anymore". I'm guessing the trail didn't block itself, likely the forest service did it to keep people on the actual trail.
Interesting. Seen rigs on it both times I've been on that trail and dirt bikers passing through it too. I'll keep an eye out next time I'm up there, I haven't been up since they added the gatekeeper. Couple signs at the rock pile entrances probably would go a long way in communicating, I don't remember seeing any signage or obvious blockages on the primary entrance/exit to the boneyard area.
 

jlopes68

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He’s way off the actual trail in that video, I’m going to blame the karma gods for that one. Stay on the trails before you get them closed.
It’s an old buggy line deep in the boneyard, been seeing some use lately. But you are right, at the time it looked like it had been possibly obscured like they do when they don’t want you in an area. We’ve not done that line since but it’s definitely seeing action again.
 

path0s

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Agreed...there are a lot of people wheelin halfway responsibly on 37s/38s with stock JL d44 axles without problems. Sounds like adding RCV's to the front and chromally shafts to the rear would be a worthwhile upgrade for long term peace of mind. Thoughts?

I've also read that welding on a truss properly is tougher than most think and many shops accidentally and unknowingly end up bending the axle. Considering having a shop add a truss is around $1000 per axle + $1200 for RCV's up front + $800-1000 to regear each axle....it's over $3k for most to have a front axle built in this manner. Considering you can probably sell the front stock axle for $1500, an ultimate 44 front for $4400 looks attractive when you consider it offers:
  • Heat-treated high-grade SAE-4340 nickel chromoly steel axle shaft offers superior abrasion resistance and strength, and uniform surface hardness
  • Thicker, 1/4″ steel bracket mounts
  • Upgraded u-joints outperform the competition, with Nm load ratings of 3000 (1350 series) and 3600 (1410 series)
  • Thicker 9.5mm tubes for added strength
  • Clearance increased by 1/2″ for brutal terrain
  • Expanded gear ratio options to accommodate different tire sizes
  • Bolt-in design
  • Smaller, 220mm ring gear than the gearing in Dana 44™ axles for greater strength
  • Track width is identical to OEM track width
  • No FAD (front axle disconnect) means increased strength
  • Aggressive nodular iron diff cover
slight thread revival.

Don't forget alot of the Rubi/mojave/XR package guys are HD m210's up front, which are 10mm wall. So roughly 1/10" less thick than the walls on A PR44. HD M210 I still believe is 2.75" diameter? Included cast iron knuckles.

Larger shafts now. I believe people are forgetting how strong this 3rd gen 44 is, especially the HD version. yea, the FAD is a weak point, just little less skinny. Do I think a truss is needed on it? If you're doing massive amounts of crawling on 40s, yea sure.

Moderate trail use on 37s? Probably not, i'd say shafts front and rear and you'll be fine, so long as it's the m210/220 or hd m210 front with 220 rear.

You should see some of the videos of synergy and some of the other companies abusing the 44 with 37s/40s and it holding up.
 

jlopes68

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slight thread revival.

Don't forget alot of the Rubi/mojave/XR package guys are HD m210's up front, which are 10mm wall. So roughly 1/10" less thick than the walls on A PR44. HD M210 I still believe is 2.75" diameter? Included cast iron knuckles.

Larger shafts now. I believe people are forgetting how strong this 3rd gen 44 is, especially the HD version. yea, the FAD is a weak point, just little less skinny. Do I think a truss is needed on it? If you're doing massive amounts of crawling on 40s, yea sure.

Moderate trail use on 37s? Probably not, i'd say shafts front and rear and you'll be fine, so long as it's the m210/220 or hd m210 front with 220 rear.

You should see some of the videos of synergy and some of the other companies abusing the 44 with 37s/40s and it holding up.
I’m quite certain synergy already bent one, jumping the 2 door.
 

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I am on the same dilemma. I will be going with 5:13s next week, but I am trying to see if I need/should do the truss. My shop is charging me a reasonable $400 for the front and $250 for the Artec kit. I live in the city and only hit up off-roading parks less than 10 times per year. I've limited myself to the trails I can do. So should I really spend and additional $1k to add the truss? Still thinking about it, but most likely no.
 

jlopes68

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Well I have not trussed mine yet and I’ve done most of the hard trails out west. You really do have to hit it pretty hard to bend or break them. That being said, I’m almost certain at some point mine will break in half at the FAD as is most common. At which time I’ll most likely upgrade the housing all together. Now if your going to ground n pound, bash and dash maybe a truss might be a good idea. The higher the speed the harder you hit.
 

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I ordered the kit from Barnes. I'm building this up:

IMG_5987.jpg
 

J0E

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Do I think a truss is needed on it? If you're doing massive amounts of crawling on 40s, yea sure.

Moderate trail use on 37s? Probably not, i'd say shafts front and rear and you'll be fine, so long as it's the m210/220 or hd m210 front with 220 rear.
Crawling on 44's won't bend the axle, you'll break a shaft, ring gear, or something else. Crawling is fine, it's KoH bumps that bends or breaks an axle.

Tire size has almost nothing to do with bending an axle, it's purely the impulse from the mass of the vehicle in KoH type running.
 

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jlroman2

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I am on the same dilemma. I will be going with 5:13s next week, but I am trying to see if I need/should do the truss. My shop is charging me a reasonable $400 for the front and $250 for the Artec kit. I live in the city and only hit up off-roading parks less than 10 times per year. I've limited myself to the trails I can do. So should I really spend and additional $1k to add the truss? Still thinking about it, but most likely no.
I lied. I came up on the rear truss for $50 so decided to just go ahead and invest in the front truss kit. Went with 5:13 Yukon gears.

9BFD68C9-3E7B-4CD5-A0F9-F2253B0F00EF.jpeg


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snapper692

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Glad y’all revived this thread….it’s a good read! Talking to a local shop about regearing and they’re pushing trusses pretty hard.

If the price isn’t bad, May just have them do it…
 

CarbonSteel

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Glad y’all revived this thread….it’s a good read! Talking to a local shop about regearing and they’re pushing trusses pretty hard.

If the price isn’t bad, May just have them do it…
Economy of scale--since they already have it torn apart, the time to install the trusses would be then.

Just make sure they know how to weld on cast steel...
 

21JLUR

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Definitely a good read. I'm debating trusses as well. I'm concerned about the FAD breaking!
I'm on the M210/M220 D44's 5:13 gears, Reid knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints, RCV' s front and rear with FAD delete, Method 106 rims, MT Baja Boss 40x13.5x 17 tires.
I have talked to an axle guy who will retube it for $1k plus I order all brackets instead of cutting stock off, $1500ish? Or truss what I have.

I have wheeled through the Rubicon on 37's and to spider lake twice on 40's, just an in and out, timing was not on our side. And been through everything but the buggy line a few times at Prairie city park. It's a beast in 40's! But again, my concern is the FAD casing on the passenger side. And of course the pinion. But, I'm pretty smooth on the skinny pedal.
 
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J0E

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I have talked to an axle guy who will retube it for $1k plus I order all brackets instead of cutting stock off, $1500ish? Or truss what I have.
Tube strength goes up as the fourth power, and it is called Moment of Inertia, or Inertial Stiffness. What size tubes? You'd obviously loose the FAD weakness even if you didn't go up in diameter. Start a go fund me, I'd pay to see the result.
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