Aux battery delete did not work

[Pickleman]

2018 jlur very early build.
I removed negative cable from main and pulled fuse 42.
done just like videos show. I forgot to disable the start stop switch and the start stop flashed green and did its thing.
I was having all kinds of codes before this and now it’s worse. Any tips here?

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[rcadden]

Deleting the AUX battery alone doesn't disable ESS. It only serves to remove the AUX battery from the circuit. ESS will continue to function, but will do so using the main battery instead.

You will still need to either manually disable ESS on every startup, or use a dongle to automate the process.

The reason for doing the AUX delete process is to remove the smaller battery from the circuit, as it has a habit of going bad, and then draining the main battery trying to recharge itself, killing them both in the process.

 

[dchemphill1]

If you use jscan (some tech steps) but you must also remove the driver side hood switch, which also will keep remote start from working. There is an aftermarket bit you can throw on it remembers your last setting until you change it again.

ESS and Aux delete are really two different things.

 

[Zjamison]

2018 jlur very early build.
I removed negative cable from main and pulled fuse 42.
done just like videos show. I forgot to disable the start stop switch and the start stop flashed green and did its thing.
I was having all kinds of codes before this and now it’s worse. Any tips here?

Literally just went through the exact same thing the other day! My 2018 apparently has the "newer" battery cable routing. @AndySpill shared the thread below which shows the difference. Just curious, is yours a manual? Maybe they wired the manuals differently for some reason?

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ess-battery-cable-change.86624/

Sorry, just realized that the bypass did work for you but it wasn't disabling ESS. Like the others are saying, you need a Tazer or something of the like to disable ESS.

 

[Renostever]

Interesting. I have a 2019 w/ 3.6L and my ESS doesn’t work and I don’t have any notifications other than ESS not available due to battery charging. I assume the aux battery is dead so I removed its negative cable from the main battery and pulled F42 to keep the main battery from being drained. No plans to ‘fix’ it .

 

[bcupton]

You could just add a Genesis dual battery system

 

[AndySpill]

2018 jlur very early build.
I removed negative cable from main and pulled fuse 42.
done just like videos show. I forgot to disable the start stop switch and the start stop flashed green and did its thing.
I was having all kinds of codes before this and now it’s worse. Any tips here?

What I'm hearing is that you bypassed the Aux battery but didn't prevent the ESS system from engaging: two, as pointed out, entirely different steps.

Further, ESS did engage, and because of your wiring changes, it used the main battery as the source for its power: normally reserved for the ESS battery.

This may have depleted what might be an otherwise near the end of its useful life main battery. How old is it?

You may (or may not) be getting all the issues you describe from a main battery in need of charge and/or replacement.

Can you trickle charge the main battery and/or subject it to a load tester--not to be confused with a voltage meter?

 

[THAW]

You may (or may not) be getting all the issues you describe from a main battery in need of charge and/or replacement.

Can you trickle charge the main battery and/or subject it to a load tester--not to be confused with a voltage meter?

It's an esoteric point, but "trickle" (i.e. float) charging is the final stage of 3-stage (bulk, absorption, float) AGM charging.

I understand "trickle" is a generic term for low amp chargers, but "trickle" charging is technically for long-term maintenance of a fully charged AGM, not recharging a low state of charge (SOC) AGM, as suggested for the OP's case.

Also, one can perform a basic load test with a voltmeter (multimeter function) by observing voltage before and during vehicle start.

 

[DaltonGang]

You could just add a Genesis dual battery system

This Aux Battery bypass fix is free. How much is the Genesis Duel Battery System??

.

 

[AndySpill]

It's an esoteric point, but "trickle" (i.e. float) charging is the final stage of 3-stage (bulk, absorption, float) AGM charging.

I understand "trickle" is a generic term for low amp chargers, but "trickle" charging is technically for long-term maintenance of a fully charged AGM, not recharging a low state of charge (SOC) AGM, as suggested for the OP's case.

Also, one can perform a basic load test with a voltmeter (multimeter function) by observing voltage before and during vehicle start.

Really Foster? Really?

OP: "low and slow" of which I would not be surprised if Foster takes some pedantic issue with as well, is a better way for you to charge. We've talk before about how your pedantism isn't always a plus.

Yes trickle charging is technically about putting no more power in a battery than that lost by the forces of time as entropy finds it self discharging but in this context it suggests that if you have the capabilities, that you let a lower amperage charger or setting on one try to put power back into the battery over a longer period of time. I'm sure Foster could talk at lengths about the different types of charging best indicated for an AGM battery as it transitions from near dead to, if capable, fully charge, as could I, but opt out from doing so to not become that I critique.

Let's talk about something that isn't pedantic.

I am unaware of the age of your main battery and given you have a 2018, I am concerned that the battery has aged out, even if having been replaced, even more than once since then.

Load testing tests that which a battery needs to do: which is not only deliver but accept recharge and is the gold standard for battery testing. A multimeter IMHO may be able to rule in a bad battery, but not rule in a good one.

 

[Pickleman]

Update main battery about a year old.
starts and runs fine if it’s not puking codes and won’t move.

 

[bcupton]

This Aux Battery bypass fix is free. How much is the Genesis Duel Battery System??

.

Not free!
I like tried and true products. But that’s me.

 

[Mguy]

Update main battery about a year old.
starts and runs fine if it’s not puking codes and won’t move.

Seems like your main battery was replaced about a year ago. Not clear when you did the aux battery/F42 disconnect, but because of your reported problems, neither matters. You need to determine if the main battery is dead (meaning it won't take and/or hold a charge) or is merely drained (meaning it can be charged and will hold it). Note, an improperly maintained AGM can die in just a few weeks.

Before any type of testing, an attempt should be made to fully charge your battery. There are only two ways to do this: Operate the engine/alternator (no ESS stopping), or attach a three stage external charger. Both procedures will take several hours, four to be sure the process is complete. If using the engine/alternator, the dash should show initial voltage of about 13.5 or greater, and should trail down to about 12.8 at the end. If using an external charger there should be indicator lights to show when charging is complete.

After charging, remove either the positive or negative from the battery and wait 24 hours. Then read the voltage using an external device. If the voltage is 12.8 or greater the battery is good. If 12.5 or less get a new battery. If in between, take another reading 48 hours later. If still in between your battery is good enough and if properly maintained will likely last a year or more.

Basic AGM battery maintenance means keeping it fully charged when not in use. Allowing frequent ESS stops without adequate charging will kill an AGM well before its normal life

Incidentally, to avoid confusing anyone who might have reason to open your hood, you should remove the red "positive" tape from the negative aux battery cable. Use either black tape or, for a more changeable method of electrical isolation, us a short length of hose.

 

[THAW]

Update main battery about a year old.
starts and runs fine if it’s not puking codes and won’t move.

Which codes?

ECU communication error codes are sometimes "puked" due to a low voltage and/or high resistance battery, loose battery cables/grounds, or a faulty CAN bus.

 

[DaltonGang]

Not free!
I like tried and true products. But that’s me.

If I were running a fridge, winch, air compressor, etc etc, and had $1,000 to just put in the battery system, then the Genesis would be for me.

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