Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Sting_NC_USA]

[/QUOTE]

Hey.. sting_nc_usa
I need some help with basic 7inch radio with alpine ktp 445u. I followed the way to hook up the with radio with resistors , of course . I got t harness from clutchfield and i modified to work with the alpine amp . Here is the problems after i finished install no sound so i check dip switch . After that only front right side speaker got sound . Only two times suddenly all the speakers make sounds . But now , only one speaker is working .
i changed dash speaker and soundbar speakers with infinity speakers.
What should i do ? I dont wanna buy pac , i just make all speakers to work .
Thanks so much .

Interesting result.

The missing ingredient in the setup described is that you're not using a LOC/DSP device. With the resistor method described in Post #1, something in the class of the JL Fix86 is used. In this configuration, the wires with the resistors coming from the radio typically feed directly into the LOC/DSP which (after being calibrated) processes the signal and conditions the sound that's passed to the AMP using RCA cables.

Running the wires, as you've described, directly into the AMP's inputs, really isn't advised. The tolerances are not tight enough that way to consistently "fool" the radio's Ohm test.

Having never installed a system using a pure resistor approach without an LOC/DSP, the sketchy playback experience you're describing leads me to believe there could possibly be loose connections in the harness. Or, more likely there may be some sort of resistance change by using the harness. It's really, really hard to determine.

I do think you should consider the PAC and ditch the resistors, or keep the resistors and pick up a LOC/DSP similar to that which I and others have recommended. That's probably, not what you wanted to hear, but I believe it's important to share what will lead to the best outcome. Best of luck!

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[i3t83]

Sting- your commitment to, and knowledge for, the community is terrific, thank you! I started reading this thread from page one about a week ago and made it to page 23 of 80 and decided to skip the last 57 so I apologize if these questions were addressed previously but I don’t think I’ve seen commentary on them.

I had professionals install a 2ohm Stealthbox with JL Audio XD7005v2 with a bass knob. (The other four channels being for front 6.5 components and 6.5 coaxial to be installed later in the month).

The Stealthbox sounds clean and nice but I want more oomph still. The technician experimented with ensuring no phase misalignments or frequency clashes and made it possible to run Stealth and Alpine simultaneously. The Stealthbox “sanitizes” the Alpine and it sounds better than it sounds. Problem though is bass knob has no effect on Alpine sub and is hence useless. That said, I want to remove Alpine sub for another Stealthbox.

What would you suggest regarding amplifying the second sub:

(1) A 2ohm SVC Stealthbox needs to be paired with another 2ohm correct? (2) And if that is the case and they were running off the same amp the impedance would need to be 1 or 4 ohm stable ? There are not many JL amps — that I’m aware of — pushing 600 watts divided over two channels (300 rms x 2) at 1 or 4ohms, which would require me to get a separate amp (XD3001v2)?

(3) Is it possible to have a single bass knob control gain from two separate amps? I’ve read conflicting reports. (4) Do you think having an integrated DSP on a monoblock makes sense? Seems like a lot of extra buck for limited control. And finally, (5) can two separate amplifiers integrate with a stand alone DSP? Put simply , how would you wire this second 2ohm sub?

Thank you!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Sting- your commitment to, and knowledge for, the community is terrific, thank you! I started reading this thread from page one about a week ago and made it to page 23 of 80 and decided to skip the last 57 so I apologize if these questions were addressed previously but I don’t think I’ve seen commentary on them.

I had professionals install a 2ohm Stealthbox with JL Audio XD7005v2 with a bass knob. (The other four channels being for front 6.5 components and 6.5 coaxial to be installed later in the month).

The Stealthbox sounds clean and nice but I want more oomph still. The technician experimented with ensuring no phase misalignments or frequency clashes and made it possible to run Stealth and Alpine simultaneously. The Stealthbox “sanitizes” the Alpine and it sounds better than it sounds. Problem though is bass knob has no effect on Alpine sub and is hence useless. That said, I want to remove Alpine sub for another Stealthbox.

What would you suggest regarding amplifying the second sub:

(1) A 2ohm SVC Stealthbox needs to be paired with another 2ohm correct? (2) And if that is the case and they were running off the same amp the impedance would need to be 1 or 4 ohm stable ? There are not many JL amps — that I’m aware of — pushing 600 watts divided over two channels (300 rms x 2) at 1 or 4ohms, which would require me to get a separate amp (XD3001v2)?

(3) Is it possible to have a single bass knob control gain from two separate amps? I’ve read conflicting reports. (4) Do you think having an integrated DSP on a monoblock makes sense? Seems like a lot of extra buck for limited control. And finally, (5) can two separate amplifiers integrate with a stand alone DSP? Put simply, how would you wire this second 2ohm sub?

Thank you!

Very kind words, thank you Bob! I'm actually just a hobbyist (an old one) that has a hard time quitting, and this was one of those projects that I just couldn't give up on, but thanks again.

I'll do my best to share a little on each, though I'd have to recommend reaching out to Travis (See the bottom of Post #1) for truly expert advice, especially with amp recommendations to match the Stealthbox series specs.

Feedback by question number:

1) Ideally yes. You really don't want to run two different subs at different specs. Possible? Yes, but not ideal given tuning needs, phasing, etc. in a Jeep.​

​

2) The manner in which you wire your amp to your speakers determines the Ohm load. There are quite a few options, and a long of strong, conflicting opinions! Many folks tend to run a 4-Ohm amp to two 2Ohm subs, using a "Series Parallel" wiring approach. Watch this video for a great install demo: ​

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3) For more flexible control, some of the higher end DSP processors allow mapping/combining of controls. The ability to accomplish what you are requesting will likely be Amp/DSP dependent. That said, there's a very simple device, the PAC LC-1, that I believe effectively handles the split of the input signal and feeds the Bass Knob output to two separate amps. So, yes, you do have options, though the PAC LC-1 knob isn't exactly what I'd call aesthetically pleasing. ​

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4) I tend to agree, though if you are running a primary, full range amp that has an integrated DSP (I use the VX800/8i), you can feed the sub's signal from the DSP Amp's RCA pass through. In the main amp's DSP settings, you can often control crossover, gain, timing, etc. of the pass through output from the main amp's DSP options. Really cool stuff, and truly worth it for tuning and matching crossover frequencies.​

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5) I believe #4 above addresses this one. If you have a two channel DSP that is feeding one amp, and that amp has a pass through, one DSP "should" control both. The problem there is that both amps will have the same exact settings, which may/may not be optimal for any given scenario (especially if tuning is needed). If your DSP has more outputs, than you'd simply feed the DSP outputs to each respective amp.​

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Hope that's helpful, but please research each and make a call on what works best for your situation. - Take care!​

 

[i3t83]

That helps! I think I have some direction. Thank you

 

[Surfwagon]

I’m not gonna lie. I’m completely lost. On top of all that my powered sub took a dump on me today, so I’m super bummed.

Here’s what I have going on…maybe someone can help:

First, I have the T-harness from the Alpine sub kit (the one Pacparts doesn’t sell anymore), hooked up to a KTP-445u amp. This is running all of my speakers in the vehicle…I’ve been pretty happy, but I can tell it’s underpowered for all my speaker upgrades.

The good thing about the harness is that is has dedicated wiring for High-level sub wires. I am not using a LOC.


So, I added a powered subwoofer myself, utilizing the sub preouts that are spliced into a hi level input plug on a RF P300-10. This pooped the bed today. I’ve troubleshot it ad nauseum and I cannot find the issue. The power protection light is on and I have no shorts anywhere.

Here’s where I am now (and where I need advice). I’m having a nicer 4-channel Alpine amp installed this coming Saturday and am thinking about just having them do a sub amp install as well, along with a new sub and box. Everything is gonna come in around $1k.

I guess what’s confusing me is this whole LOC business. The shop hasn’t mentioned anything about adding one, but they are one of the most reputable shops in my area. I kinda want to let the shop do the 4-channel install and I would do the sub amp/subwoofer install (and ditch the powered sub).

The frustrating thing is that I have done amp installs before…run the power/ground/remote, tap the speaker wires and hook it all up. What am I missing. If it’s this simple, I could just do it myself right?

Sorryfor the rambling….just frustrated and lost.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Thanks to all on this page. I have a MB Quart with the trimmings. Currently running JLJT pods in the soundbar. If I take a day to cut the soundbar for the 6x9s and reinstall the pods, is it possible to knock out the rest in 4-6 hours? The installation sheets say 2 hours for the speakers and 2 hours for the amp install. I see that some installers can have the kick panel speakers out in about 30 minutes. That and cutting the soundbar seems to be the biggest issue. Also has anyone figures out a better routing of the main power to the battery than through the drain grommet in the floor? Is there some place along the firewall that can be used? I remember another kit that has amps on the drivers side and they route power through the firewall near the master cylinder.

 

[devicemanager]

Also has anyone figures out a better routing of the main power to the battery than through the drain grommet in the floor? Is there some place along the firewall that can be used? I remember another kit that has amps on the drivers side and they route power through the firewall near the master cylinder.

Correct. That is the location that I used. You don't even need to remove it if you carefully drill from the inside.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ugh-jl-firewall-to-run-electrical-wire.58168/

 

[Terpsmandan]

Betting that hole is not on the pass side. The wire runs for the power are precut and I don't want to add any additional wire.

 

[Nick C.]

Betting that hole is not on the pass side. The wire runs for the power are precut and I don't want to add any additional wire.

It’s on the drivers side, top left corner behind the plastic trim that goes along the carpet. You can look it on YouTube it’s really easy to find.

 

[devicemanager]

Betting that hole is not on the pass side. The wire runs for the power are precut and I don't want to add any additional wire.

I only read the post of yours that I quoted, and I didn't see any mention of passenger side only. I made sure that I had at least 15-20ft of power wire and used the drivers side grommet. I was not a fan of using the floor grommet on the passenger side.

It’s on the drivers side, top left corner behind the plastic trim that goes along the carpet. You can look it on YouTube it’s really easy to find.

Yes, and I linked him to a thread in this forum with pics and info. It's what I referenced a few weeks ago when I had to make a decision on how to run my power wire.

 

[Terpsmandan]

I only read the post of yours that I quoted, and I didn't see any mention of passenger side only. I made sure that I had at least 15-20ft of power wire and used the drivers side grommet. I was not a fan of using the floor grommet on the passenger side.


Yes, and I linked him to a thread in this forum with pics and info. It's what I referenced a few weeks ago when I had to make a decision on how to run my power wire.

But if it's for the clutch it will not be on the outer side of the firewall, it would be probably a third of the way across the firewall, assuming that there are RHD manuals being made.

 

[devicemanager]

But if it's for the clutch it will not be on the outer side of the firewall, it would be probably a third of the way across the firewall, assuming that there are RHD manuals being made.

Did you click the link in my post? I have no idea if you have a RHD or LHD JL, but you live in NY, so I can only assume LDH.

 

[Terpsmandan]

I did. Nobody has mentioned if that hole is duplicated on the pass side. It probably isn't unless there make RHD Wranglers with a manual transmission.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Just read in another post that there is a grommet above the glovebox. I will look for that when I install the Stage 6. Has anyone taken a pic of that? I will ad a pic if nobody has posted before I do my install.

 

[RSK]

I ran the positive red power wire through the grommet behind the glove box to the battery on my kicker sub before I knew there was an easier route. On the drivers side, there is pop out plug left side of the steering wheel and up under the dash panel about 10 inches. Much easier to maneuver IMO, just make sure you have enough wire length if going that way. I ran the front camera wire through that firewall plug at a later time and found it to be much simpler to access. It’s the same plug forum members Devicemanager highlighted in an earlier post.

Here are the pictures of the grommet and red wire above the glove box. It was a pain to fish through with an oversized tie wrap.

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