Varilux

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Getting ready to install a powered subwoofer (base system with 7" screen, the sub is a Sound Ordinance 8" slim), and I have a couple of stupid questions. This thread has already answered a bunch of questions, so thanks to all who have contributed!

1. I have the AUX switches which provides an ignition power source on the passenger side. Is there any reason I couldn't / shouldn't use that wire for the turn on signal for the sub?
2. It doesn't look like putting the subwoofer under the passenger seat (which was my plan) is going to work, because there is a heating vent under both seats (like I care about the comfort of people in the back seat I'm planning on removing anyway- btw, I have a 2 door). Anyone have a clever spot to put a slim powered subwoofer? Would mounting it under the floor in the back (I think that's where the factory sub goes) be a good idea- or would I lose the base due to the floor being over the unit (and there might not be enough ventilation in there anyway?





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IPvFletch

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I wouldn't waste an aux switch, but if it's power for the aux bank, sure that would work fine. You can also easily tap into the cigarette lighter, or the stereo itself, just gotta pop off those dash panels and pull out the AC or Stereo boxes.

Check those heater/AC vents under the seats. I think they are removable/movable/pliable. You might be able to work around them. Otherwise, the trunk area is probably your best bet.
 

Varilux

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Thanks for the response. I wouldn't be using one of the switches- the bundle of wires that comes with the pre-wired AUX switches also includes two extra wires. One has constant power, and one has switched power. I'll plan to tie onto the switched power wire to signal my sub. I didn't know if perhaps the ignition powered wire cut off with the engine instead of staying on until the door is open (guess I can use my voltmeter to figure that out).

It did feel like the vent under the seat could be removed- but then the heater would be blowing right onto the enclosure (although I suppose I could just put foam up into the vent opening, so that could be a good workaround- I really want to put the sub under the seat).

Thanks again.
 

911JL

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Can anyone give a little more detail on tapping into cigarette lighter wire? Specifically, how to get access to the wiring? I'm afraid of breaking clips and screws. Thanks!
 

IPvFletch

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Can anyone give a little more detail on tapping into cigarette lighter wire? Specifically, how to get access to the wiring? I'm afraid of breaking clips and screws. Thanks!
Pull on the panel for the AC controls and Push-to-Start button. It comes out with a pry tool - use a screwdriver with tape around it if you don't have one. Once that is out you see a screw dead center. That holds the power windows control module in place. Unscrew and pop that out. There you can unplug the harness for the cigarette lighter, and tap into it. This is the only video I could find of it. This guy takes wayyy too much time and precaution, but I suppose if it's your first time doing this, you might go slow too...


You don't have to remove the radio screws/bezel like him, just the one screw for the windows. You'll see it dead center.
 

911JL

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Perfect! Thanks. I looked on youtube before, but somehow missed this.
 

Kube86

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OK, I’m about to install a powered subwoofer, I’m going to tap into the speaker wires coming down the pillar for the audio. Do I need to get the AudioControl LC2i 2? I’m confused. Is it something that I should get? Or is it something that is a good option to get? Or something that I probably won’t need at all?Thanks for the info everybody.
 
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Unless your amp has a built-in LOC that's compatible with the UConnect's output, you're likely going to need an LOC in order for everything to work. The common misconception is that if your amp has speaker-level inputs that it will work, though that's not always true with today's stock radio systems.

I believe you'll need the LOC, but at a minimum, I'd recommending getting an LOC, keeping it in the box and trying your amp without it. If it works without the LOC, great - just return the LOC. If it doesn't work without the LOC, then you're prepared.

It's likely worth mentioning that the LC2i offers more benefits than simply converting the speaker level inputs to RCA outs.

Good luck!
 

jpqst

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I am looking at replacing the Alpine sub with an aftermarket sub and amp using an audiocontrol loc tapped off the soundbar speaker wires. I will not be using the factor wiring for the sub and the harness will remain unconnected. Will that cause an issue with the headunit? I wasn't sure if having the sub disconnected, but everything else stock will cause a problem or errors.
 
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I am looking at replacing the Alpine sub with an aftermarket sub and amp using an audiocontrol loc tapped off the soundbar speaker wires. I will not be using the factor wiring for the sub and the harness will remain unconnected. Will that cause an issue with the headunit? I wasn't sure if having the sub disconnected, but everything else stock will cause a problem or errors.
Leaving the sub disconnected shouldn't affect anything. Why not go ahead and test it, though... To do so, unplug your sub, and if you're still getting a signal from all of the front and rear speakers, you're good to go. Enjoy your upgrades!
 

IPvFletch

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It's possible you may get a check engine light or similar warning because the amp is unhooked. IIRC this happens if you unplug anything. Perhaps a programmer can overrule it, but I don't think the Tazer has this feature. You might have to leave it plugged in and just unplug the OEM sub from the amp.
 

Fkerks71

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This post is great but my system is not. I have the stock head unit which is the Uconnect 4 with 7" display and i wanted to add an amp and sub to give it more bass. I have installed a Kicker CXA600.1 amp with a Kicker Comp RT10 Sub and Kicker KISL speaker line converter with no resistors on the speaker lines as I only tapped into the rear speaker lines.... Everything sounds good until I turn the volume up to 20 and the amp goes into protection mode. I have eliminated the usual suspects power, ground, speaker wiring for correct ohms and still no change. Can it be the cheap speaker to RCA converter causing the amp to go into protect mode?
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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It could be the LOC you're using, but first... what is your amp's gain set to? I'd bet that having the gain set too high could be affecting your amp's performance, especially since UConnect can be a bit finicky. Also, check to see if your LOC has a built in gain. If it does, try tuning it down, too. My best guess is that your amp's gain may be set higher than necessary, but let's start there.

I'm assuming you've checked your wiring, ensuring the positive and negative inputs are connected properly (in phase).

I know that others have used the AudioControl LC2i with success. If the above doesn't fix your issue, the LC2i is a reasonably priced option.

Let me know how it goes, and I'll do my best to help.
 

Fkerks71

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I did play with my gain and the amp still cuts out when its turned all the way down so maybe it is the signal coming in. The Kicker LOC I am using is very low tech, you are basically connecting RCA connectors to the speaker line. I have used this set up in other cars but it might not be adequate with the newer more advanced Uconnect. I will order the LC2i and let you know if that solves all my problems.

Thanks a lot for the help!!!!!!!
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