Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Gaust]

Has anyone tried the iDatalink Maestro AR? Looks like a perfect solution to interface problems with databus sound systems. As long as they have the correct harness it would be plug and play!

https://www.carid.com/2018-jeep-wrangler-wire-harnesses/

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[americonium]

Alright gang, here we go. So, the last few weeks, the temperature has been in the 30s and 40s. When I start the Jeep in the colder weather, I only get sound from the left rear and the right front. If it warms up and I turn it off, then let it sit for a few minutes, and restart it, I get all speakers. I am going to see if the resistance changes with the temperature, perhaps I have two bad 47Ω resistors. Maybe there's something wrong with the High to Low converter. I'll figure it out, but I'd like to hear from anyone that's had this problem..Thanks

 

[vavaroutsos]

Alright gang, here we go. So, the last few weeks, the temperature has been in the 30s and 40s. When I start the Jeep in the colder weather, I only get sound from the left rear and the right front. If it warms up and I turn it off, then let it sit for a few minutes, and restart it, I get all speakers. I am going to see if the resistance changes with the temperature, perhaps I have two bad 47Ω resistors. Maybe there's something wrong with the High to Low converter. I'll figure it out, but I'd like to hear from anyone that's had this problem..Thanks

Check all the connectors.

 

[americonium]

Already did. They're all tinned and tight. The RCA connections look good as well.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Alright gang, here we go. So, the last few weeks, the temperature has been in the 30s and 40s. When I start the Jeep in the colder weather, I only get sound from the left rear and the right front. If it warms up and I turn it off, then let it sit for a few minutes, and restart it, I get all speakers. I am going to see if the resistance changes with the temperature, perhaps I have two bad 47Ω resistors. Maybe there's something wrong with the High to Low converter. I'll figure it out, but I'd like to hear from anyone that's had this problem..Thanks

The easiest test is to replace the resistors in the affected areas. If that doesn't work, there could be something going on inside your amp. The resistors are most likely the cause. When I did my first install, I had a couple that were defective.

 

[americonium]

Yesterday, the temperature was above freezing, and all the speakers worked. This morning was below freezing, and only the RF and LR worked. So, the problem isn't moving around. I plan on putting the o-scope on it this morning and seeing where the signal disappears.

 

[americonium]

Stereo was working fine by the time I got out to troubleshoot. I guess the neighbors are listening to 1 kHz tomorrow for breakfast...

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Stereo was working fine by the time I got out to troubleshoot. I guess the neighbors are listening to 1 kHz tomorrow for breakfast...

LOL, everyone loves pink noise and sine waves in the morning!

 

[IPvFletch]

Finally got to working on this project....

First up, I wired stereo-level inputs for my amp... I used 22awg speaker wire I found and tapped in using t-tap splices to the twisted pairs for the L and R soundbar speakers. I wired it according to the base stereo wiring diagram here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jeep-jl-wrangler-wiring-diagrams.19185/

Getting the plastic doorway molding off was a PITA, and I'm surprised I didn't break it. All because of how it fits together each under a different part. I ended up removing the main piece that spans the whole rear door and half of the front. Once I had it out of the way, it was a bit easier to work on. Getting the wires cut out of the Tesla tape, and untwisted enough to tap into was also a chore, but not too bad in the end. These taps made it SUPER easy, and I'm so glad I finally had a good use for them! Hopefully I can get the trim back in place over them now...

To get the wires run under the gray plastic wire block/retainer for the trim panel, I used a coat hanger and snaked them through. It looks like if you don't do this, they will surely get clobbered and possibly severed by the trim panel once put back in place. There is just no extra room around that big chunk of plastic. I can only pray the driver's side won't be as challenging, as I need to run 4awg which is much larger...

Next up, I will run some 4awg and a fuse from the engine compartment/battery thru the driver's side firewall grommet, down behind the kick, under the plastic doorway trim, and to the back where my amp will be. To get through the firewall, the grommet seems really in there, so I am just going to drill it in-place. It looks like I can get my drill a lil down in the engine bay right where it needs to go. For ground, I am thinking one of the rear seat bolts, what do you guys say? On top of the bracket? Or sandwiched in between the seat bracket and the body sheetmetal? If so, I would need to scratch off some paint around where the bolt is, right??

I'm planning to use my previous Alpine MRP-M1000 mono amp with an Alpine TypeX 12" wired to run in 2ohm and mounted in a ported box. The amp is already screwed onto the box, and I will secure the box behind the rear seat somewhere for now. This is still very much POC phase, as I may end up with a different box, or something custom, or even a smaller bazooka tube type setup instead. We shall see....

I welcome any comments or tips/tricks!!

 

[dspilman]

Hello all - I've been sifting through this thread and others trying to find the right information before I post. Honestly, there is a LOT! And its somewhat difficult to find exactly what works for people and what doesn't.

What I want to do is fairly simple, and I would appreciate input on if my plan will work.

I ordered my 2-door Rubicon w/ the Alpine system. I plan on keeping the alpine speakers - I like their quality. What I do plan on doing is adding more bass.

The Plan:

(1) 1200 watt RMS Alpine mono subwoofer amplifier.
Power: run constant power (with fuse) directly from the battery, through the firewall, under the carpet to the rear
Remote (amp on/off): tap into either the 12v in the rear (is this controlled by ignition or constant?) or the front cigarette power ( I do not have smoker package - is this power still available?)
Audio: tap into the signal coming to the alpine subwoofer.

(2) Alpine 600 watt RMS 10" subwoofers
Signal: from aftermarket amp to each sub
Enclosure: custom built sealed enclosure to fit back area of 2-door.

If this type of mod (or similar, amp + subs only, no speakers) has already been detailed, please direct me to the appropriate post! Thank you for any help!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Hello all - I've been sifting through this thread and others trying to find the right information before I post. Honestly, there is a LOT! And its somewhat difficult to find exactly what works for people and what doesn't.

What I want to do is fairly simple, and I would appreciate input on if my plan will work.

I ordered my 2-door Rubicon w/ the Alpine system. I plan on keeping the alpine speakers - I like their quality. What I do plan on doing is adding more bass.

The Plan:

(1) 1200 watt RMS Alpine mono subwoofer amplifier.
Power: run constant power (with fuse) directly from the battery, through the firewall, under the carpet to the rear
Remote (amp on/off): tap into either the 12v in the rear (is this controlled by ignition or constant?) or the front cigarette power ( I do not have smoker package - is this power still available?)
Audio: tap into the signal coming to the alpine subwoofer.

(2) Alpine 600 watt RMS 10" subwoofers
Signal: from aftermarket amp to each sub
Enclosure: custom built sealed enclosure to fit back area of 2-door.

If this type of mod (or similar, amp + subs only, no speakers) has already been detailed, please direct me to the appropriate post! Thank you for any help!

Your plan looks good overall, though I wouldn't tie into the stock system's sub-woofer. If you do that, you may end up pulling a limited, pre-crossed-over signal that isn't feeding your amp with a broad enough signal range to adequately take advantage of such a powerful low-end configuration. Instead, I'd recommend tapping into the soundbar speaker wires that run behind the passenger seat and up into the B-Pillar. While not mentioned above, you'll likely need to install a Line Output Converter, too (inputs from stock speakers go into the LOC, then the LOC's RCA's feed your sub's amplifier).

For your trigger wire, you'll want to test your 12-Volt power outlets (front and rear) to see if they both turn off with the vehicle. If they do, then you can use either of them as your 12-Volt trigger.

Finally, with that much power, you will want to consider installing a remote gain control near the driver area. The variance of sound quality between stock radio, Sirius and your external media sources will be significant, and you'll want the ability to turn those bad boys down/up depending on the sound source and music quality.

Let me know if you need anything else, and best of luck!

 

[dspilman]

Your plan looks good overall, though I wouldn't tie into the stock system's sub-woofer. If you do that, you may end up pulling a limited, pre-crossed-over signal that isn't feeding your amp with a broad enough signal range to adequately take advantage of such a powerful low-end configuration. Instead, I'd recommend tapping into the soundbar speaker wires that run behind the passenger seat and up into the B-Pillar. While not mentioned above, you'll likely need to install a Line Output Converter, too (inputs from stock speakers go into the LOC, then the LOC's RCA's feed your sub's amplifier).

For your trigger wire, you'll want to test your 12-Volt power outlets (front and rear) to see if they both turn off with the vehicle. If they do, then you can use either of them as your 12-Volt trigger.

Finally, with that much power, you will want to consider installing a remote gain control near the driver area. The variance of sound quality between stock radio, Sirius and your external media sources will be significant, and you'll want the ability to turn those bad boys down/up depending on the sound source and music quality.

Let me know if you need anything else, and best of luck!

@Sting_NC_USA thanks so much for the feedback! You are a wealth of information sir.

I will plan on tapping in to the rear speakers @ the B-piller per your instructions. Understood on the reasoning.

Here is the amplifier I plan to install, it does feature line level inputs. Does this mean that it has a built in Line Output Converter?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM120/Alpine-MRV-M1200.html

While I'm talking to you - I'm curious if you know anything about ohms?
The subwoofers I am planning on installing come in two varieties: dual 2-ohm voice coils or dual 4-ohm voice coils - what is the difference? And the amp says it is 1200 watt @ 2 ohms or 600 what @ 4 ohms. I'm confused with which to pick!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SW10D2/Alpine-S-W10D2.html

Thanks for the help!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

@Sting_NC_USA thanks so much for the feedback! You are a wealth of information sir.

I will plan on tapping in to the rear speakers @ the B-piller per your instructions. Understood on the reasoning.

Here is the amplifier I plan to install, it does feature line level inputs. Does this mean that it has a built in Line Output Converter?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM120/Alpine-MRV-M1200.html

While I'm talking to you - I'm curious if you know anything about ohms?
The subwoofers I am planning on installing come in two varieties: dual 2-ohm voice coils or dual 4-ohm voice coils - what is the difference? And the amp says it is 1200 watt @ 2 ohms or 600 what @ 4 ohms. I'm confused with which to pick!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SW10D2/Alpine-S-W10D2.html

Thanks for the help!

My pleasure, glad to help!

Unfortunately, I can't tell if you if that amp will/won't work with it's own low-level inputs. It seems to be hit or miss and relates directly to how well the amp can translate the signal our UConnect amps are sending. My best advice is to pick up an LOC and if you end up not needing it, simply return it. Most LOC's have line conditioning properties, with some able to counter/clean up the stock equalization. That's just another benefit of using them.

As for the difference between a 2 and 4-Ohm speaker, there's a bit too much to cover here, though this link is my go-to and should provide a really good summary.

An amp has to work much, much harder to supply a 2-Ohm load. It will use more power, and it will run significantly hotter. The key is to ensure your amp and your speakers function at the same Ohm levels. Also, pay particular attention to how the subs are wired inside the box. This is my favorite speaker wiring chart. There are many different ways to wire dual-voice coil speakers, especially if you're installing more than one. My advice is to read up on how much distortion is introduced by going from 2-Ohm to 4-Ohm mode on various amps. Some can handle 2-Ohm like a champ, while others are really, really stressed.

I'm running a 750 Watt JL Audio Class D amp with a single, 10-inch JL Audio sub (10W7), and I have it turned way down. I don't think you'll have to push your amp/subs too hard to match the levels needed with the Alpine system.

 

[IPvFletch]

(1) 1200 watt RMS Alpine mono subwoofer amplifier.
Power: run constant power (with fuse) directly from the battery, through the firewall, under the carpet to the rear
Remote (amp on/off): tap into either the 12v in the rear (is this controlled by ignition or constant?) or the front cigarette power ( I do not have smoker package - is this power still available?)
Audio: tap into the signal coming to the alpine subwoofer.

(2) Alpine 600 watt RMS 10" subwoofers
Signal: from aftermarket amp to each sub
Enclosure: custom built sealed enclosure to fit back area of 2-door.

I did something very similar recently... check this post out for some details: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/adding-an-aftermarket-amp-s.6568/page-9#post-492085

I found it VERY easy to access the DRIVER'S SIDE firewall grommet. In fact, I was able to lower my drill into the engine bay and drill right through it, in-place. Then I ofc used a coat hanger multiple times to snake the 4awg and other wires through the door trim panels, etc. You just give those panels a tug near where the seats are and they will pop out. You can also pop out the upper B pillar part to get that whole lower panel piece freed up and moved out of the way. There's little gray wire channels there, and after some patience and cussing, you will finally figure out how to get a coat hanger and then some 4awg thru...

For ign I tapped into my 12v cigarette lighter behind the dash (same place for my radar detector). Just pry off the vent panel unscrew the climate controls (one screw), and there you go.

Rear speaker wires go into the PASS SIDE B Pillar and you can tap into them at the bottom where the door trim is removed (that's the pic in my post).

My "old ported sub box" worked here, but I may make a custom box which fits better, some day... good luck with your build!

 

[Goheels050917]

Good Lord. After reading this, I dont know WTF I should do.

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