Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[smacum]

Sorry for all the questions, but I have a new one ... say you don't want to use an external amp to drive after market dash and/or sound bar speakers. Would you still need to trick the system with a resistor? Or do they make aftermarket 4" coax speakers that can be dropped in as-is?

I'm not replacing mine any time soon as I have the Alpine system and with my new 12" subs and 3000watt amp it sounds fine to me (I'm actually impressed with how good the stock speakers sound - Even booming I can still hear the mids and highs very well), but I'd like to know in case I decide to down the road.

Thanks for all the free advice!

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[RubenZ]

Not sure if it was posted, but any of you see this KIT

 

[Lyleb80]

There was little information available (at the time of this original post) regarding audio wiring schematics for the JL. This thread was put together to serve as a single location for us to build upon. I'll update it periodically until this project is finished (FYI, it's now complete!).

Prior Needs:

• Wiring Schematic, including specific wire colors
  • Base System (Solved - See below) - The Speaker Wiring Schematic is now provided to help identify positive/negative polarity
  • Alpine System (Solved - See below)
• Override UConnect resistor test (UConnect checks for the stock speaker resistance and turns individual outputs off if not "seen." (Solved - See below)

Updates added:

A Speaker/Line level converter is needed: JL Audio makes a great, albeit expensive, aftermarket sound processor: the JL Audio FiX™ 86. This device digitally processes and conditions the speaker level signals. It provides a more balanced pre-amp/low-level signal for multiple amplifiers (two full range/one sub). JL Audio also makes a two-channel line-level converter, but the cost difference isn't worth the limited future upgrade-ability.

In addition to the line level converter, the uConnect system has to be "tricked" into sending a signal to each speaker. In short, the Jeep's uConnect system checks for the proper Ohm load (resistance) supplied by our stock speakers. If it doesn't detect the proper resistance, uConnect turns that speaker's signal off. To override this, I've found only one option that works. Here's a great article on the topic: Everything is hooked up but no sound is playing, just don't buy the Audio Control AC-LGD device it discusses. I'll elaborate...

I tried the AudioControl AC-LGD device, and it worked... sporadically. Evidently the resistance tolerances for the AC-LGD were too narrow causing it to work sometimes, and not others.

The JL Audio FiX-LSA-4 (a device similar to the AudioControl AC-LGD, but made by JL Audio) didn't work at all with the Jeep's load sensing issue. I spoke with a JL Audio tech, and this seems to be a known issue they'll likely address soon. The reason appears to be related to a difference in the Ohm load our stereo systems require vs. others.

This leads us to the third and functional option for overriding the load sensing issue.

Here's the only currently known way to override the load sensing needs of UConnect, until JL Audio and AudioControl get this figured out. Heads-up, it is VERY EASY to do and requires light soldering:

Talking with the techs at PAC, and confirming via online references, a 47 OHM, 5 Watt Ceramic Resistor can be soldered to each pair of speaker level input wires feeding the JL Audio FiX™ 86.

I tried this process and it does work. You can order them here, and you'll find that they are very inexpensive. If you go this route, I recommend buying several more than you need, just in case you break a few.

Each resistor is soldered to the (+) and (-) stock speaker wiring pair that you'll use to feed each line level converter input. If you're running a 4 channel amp, you'll need to purchase at least 4 resistors. Once again, this tricks the uConnect system into thinking the stock speakers are still there, allowing the system to turn each channel on without having the stock speaker attached. A home-made schematic of this resistor setup is included below.​

Base Radio: For the speaker level inputs of the line output converter, I tapped into the speaker level outputs directly behind the Base System's radio. Those wires were extended and run through the middle console to the back of the Jeep where my amps are. Once again, wiring colors are available below.

Premium Radio: For the speaker level inputs of the line output converter, you'll need to tap into the speaker level inputs that are coming out of the stock amp, which is located under the steering column.

Premium Amp location and wire plugs:

Sub-woofer only install: If you are simply adding a sub-woofer and plan to keep the stock speakers intact, you can skip the resistor process described, though you'll want to tap into the rear speaker wires housed in the B-pillar behind the passenger seat at the floor level. The wires are easy to find after removing the plastic cover at the base of the pillar. The soundbar speaker wires are the only twisted pair wires down there, and they match the colors in the chart provided. Note, unless your amp has a line output converter built in (doubtful), you will need to add a line output converter. The AudioControl LC2i, or comparable device, works fine for a sub-only upgrade.

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I have now successfully finalized my install, and it sounds amazing! Here are several additional details you may find helpful if the above hasn't scared you away yet...

On the Base System, there are four 4-inch speakers and four small tweeters. I have now upgraded the Soundbar to 5.25-inch coaxial speakers, and the kick panels were upgraded to 5.25-inch separates (Separate Woofer and Tweeter).

Modifying the Soundbar to accommodate larger speakers is fairly straight-forward. It takes some time/skill with a Dremel tool to enlarge the speaker cavities. You can fit a decent pair of mid-range coaxial speakers up there, or you could choose speaker separates. Each of the rear channels in the sound bar has a mid-range speaker and a separate tweeter already, so separates are possible, you'd just have to wire them on your own. Meaning, the stock mid-range woofer and tweeter on each channel share the same two wires (they aren't discreet). For separates, you would use the wire going into the mid-range woofer to connect to the separates' crossover, then run a new wire from the crossover to the new woofer and new tweeter.

You can also purchase Metra 72-6514 Speaker Wire Adapters for a simple connection to the stock speaker wire harnesses without cutting your wires inside of each speaker enclosure. However, if you're planning to run separates, you'll need to cut the wires at some point, so skip purchasing these.

Note, I rate upgrading the Soundbar speakers as an "intermediate" level install. That is, if you up-size your speakers. The Kick Panel speaker enclosure fabrication necessary to increase speaker size should be viewed as an "advanced" level install. To access/remove the speakers in the kick panels, you have to remove the side dash panels (body clips hold the driver/passenger side on - pry off carefully) to access all screws connected to the dash's sides. Then you'll need to remove the plastic panel under the steering column (body clips - pull the panel directly towards the driver's seat). Remove the glove box (depress the latch at the top-inside of the glove box to pull it down and outward). Then remove all of the dash screws under where the glove box and the panel just removed from under the steering column were. Each of the Kick Panel speakers have a hidden screw recessed in the side dash panel area, as well as a screw at the top and bottom of the enclosure itself. Once all three of the speaker enclosure's screws are removed, you may carefully pull the dash away from it's mounts, which allows you to rotate the speaker enclosures out. Be careful that you don't pull the dash so far out that in creases/pinches.

Side note: All of the speakers in this system come factory installed in ported enclosures. That's how these little stock speakers sound slightly better than they should.​

Further, the driver's side speaker enclosure, while a tough upgrade when up-sizing, requires that you cut and reinforce certain areas of the enclosure with silicone, hot glue and/or excess sound deadening material. And, a word to the wise... You must modify the enclosure, ensuring you provide enough speaker clearance when you reinstall the modified enclosure. Said another way, make sure the speaker won't hit the kick panel when installed and played loudly.

The passenger side enclosure is a nightmare to up-size. The mounting surface for the stock speaker is recessed, and the required cuts remove a portion of the enclosure, which happens to also be the mounting location of the stock speaker. You have to fabricate a new mounting location and it needs to be reinforced. I constructed an ad-hoc mold that allowed the speaker to mount/seal cleanly to the box. If you go this route, definitely check for clearance with the kick panel before cutting and modifying the enclosure. The new speaker will rest higher and closer to the kick panel's grille. If the speaker does hit after this, don't panic, just insert a wedge of some sort to sit between the enclosure and the kick panel's grill.

In case the above didn't generate enough concern about taking on this challenge yourself... I want to caution you by sharing this is an upgrade I wouldn't necessarily recommend performing yourself, unless you have a comfort level with basic fabrication and a ton of patience.

There is also a calibration process with the JL Audio FiX™ 86 that takes some patience, as you must be 100% successful in "tricking" all four channels of the uConnect system into turning themselves on. If calibration doesn't work, meaning all channels didn't come on and all 4 lights aren't green during the calibration, you should check your wire connections and possibly your solder point for the resistors. I had one resistor that didn't work.

Note that, if the calibration process fails, you have to power down the receiver (key off for about two minutes) until the radio fully resets, gives you the disclaimer screen, and reboots. This is due to the fact that once the uConnect system detects a stock speaker isn't there, and the resistor override isn't functioning (for whatever reason), it has to be completely powered down and allowed to reset before uConnect will initiate a new load sensing test. On the plus side, once everything is connected and calibrated, you'll have the cleanest and flattest signal possible from a stock radio. And, you can plug your laptop or phone into the JL Audio FiX™ 86 to tweak the settings and EQ!

As with anything aftermarket, please understand you are taking any install advice provided here into your own hands, and at your own risk. I have to recommend that any power wiring, especially when wiring directly to the battery, be fused at the battery/source. In the case of a short, this blows the fuse instead of creating a new welding source! I also recommend using basic relays for your remote connections, which reduces the risk of feeding power back into your Jeep's electrical system due to a faulty amplifier or component.

Thanks,

Mike


Base System Speaker Wiring provided by Benny (a.k.a. Jeep Cares)

For those who may also need these color codes, the following is what the chart says. Remember, this is what is believed to be out there for the Base System (Non-Alpine and 7-inch screen).

Left Front Windshield Grey/Violet (+) and Grey/Yellow (-)
Left Front Kick


Right Front Windshield Dark Green/Violet (+) and Dark Green/Yellow (-)
Right Front Kick


Left Rear Sound Bar Grey/Green (+) and Grey/Dark Green (-)


Right Rear Sound Bar Dark Green/Green (+) and Dark Green/Grey (-)
​

Update: In addition to the above speaker wiring, an image of the radio harness is attached below, and I've added the wiring colors from the back of the base and premium radios.

There is no external amplifier in the base model system. The external amp for the premium system is under the steering column (you should see the color coded wires below).

Speaker wire colors at the radio, with pin number and polarity:

Base Radio

PIN Wire Speaker/Polarity System

45 DG/GN RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) BASE RADIO

46 DG/VT RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) BASE RADIO

47 GY/VT LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) BASE RADIO

48 GY/GN LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) BASE RADIO

49 DG/GY RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) BASE RADIO

50 DG/YE RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) BASE RADIO

51 GY/YE LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) BASE RADIO

52 GY/DG LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) BASE RADIO


Premium Radio

45 GY/DB RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) PREMIUM RADIO

46 GY RADIO RIGHT FRONT AUDIO (+) PREMIUM RADIO

47 DG RADIO LEFT FRONT AUDIO (+) PREMIUM RADIO

48 DG/DB LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) PREMIUM RADIO

49 GY/OG RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) PREMIUM RADIO

50 GY/BN RADIO RIGHT FRONT AUDIO (-) PREMIUM RADIO

51 DG/BN RADIO LEFT FRONT AUDIO (-) PREMIUM RADIO

52 DG/OG LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) PREMIUM RADIO​

​

I installed my amp and 2 10" sub it works great however the stereo shuts off and kills the power to the head unit when I have the amp on but if its not on I don't have any problem with it shutting the head unit of, it kills the power to it and I have to reset my clock. I have the base unit and installed a Rockford fosgate amp with line level inputs. What could be the problem. P.S I hooked in to the piller wires behind the passenger seat.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I was wondering if you've tested with the factory sub and new sub together and how you think it sounds. I disconnected the factory sub but I'm considering hooking it back up but would like your opinion on how they mesh in your setup.

You really aren't supposed to run two different sub-woofers running off of two different amps, especially if the woofers are different. There's ton's available online about it. I simply can't recommend running both, as there are issues with frequency cancellation and other "stuff" that degrade rather than improve your bass frequency range.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I installed my amp and 2 10" sub it works great however the stereo shuts off and kills the power to the head unit when I have the amp on but if its not on I don't have any problem with it shutting the head unit of, it kills the power to it and I have to reset my clock. I have the base unit and installed a Rockford fosgate amp with line level inputs. What could be the problem. P.S I hooked in to the piller wires behind the passenger seat.

First, if you don't mind, please remove the part in your post that quotes my original thread, it's just too long to include in these replies. - Thanks!

Now to see what's going on with your system. I'm a little confused by your note, as it says it works great, but when you turn your amp on it kills the power. If you could clarify what's happening, that would definitely help.

Until then, here are a few questions that would also help in figuring this out:

• Are you using a Line Output Converter? You MUST use a line output converter with most amps. Some have them built in, but most do require that a stock audio system's signal be converted before being plugged into the amp.
• Where are you pulling your amp's main power from, and what gauge wire are you using?
• Where are you grounded? Ground wire needs to be solid and directly on non-painted metal.
• Where are you pulling your remote power from?
• Are your battery cables solidly connected and tight? If you can wiggle them on the terminal, they need to be secured.
• Are you 100% sure the amp's power and ground wires are securely fastened to your amp with no small wires hanging out of the socket? This can cause shorts that plague your electrical system.
• Are your fuses in your fuse box securely fastened. Many of our Jeep's fuses are loose from the factory.

I'm sure there are other things to check, but clarification of your original issue, and the answers to the above questions will help us to better assist you.

Good luck!

 

[krazyboi]

I was wondering if you've tested with the factory sub and new sub together and how you think it sounds. I disconnected the factory sub but I'm considering hooking it back up but would like your opinion on how they mesh in your setup.

They sound good together in my opinion. The stock sub was decent by itself, but with the added sub, the jeep thumps way harder. I have the added sub facing the tailgate currently, but am going to try facing it towards the stock sub and see how it changes things.

 

[Lyleb80]

1st the amp is powered from the batter with 18 gauge wire and the ground is also 18 gauge and grounded at the ground post on the passanger side at the seat post to the floor and is clear of all paint. The amp has high level inputs for the speaker connection so I dont have a line output converter because its not needed, The remote power is from my aux switch and its set on ignition. I have not checked the fuses in the jeep but I will do that tommorow. The problem is just the jeep head unit that looses power, the amp stays on when the head unit looses power,
and it only happens when the amp is on and I have it cranked past half way on the head unit volume. Maybe I need a line level converter becaue it maybe over driving the head unit when its cranked up. I know everything else is good. My back ground is I'm an aircraft mechanic and work avionic and know wiring, I'm just not sure on the stock stereo can handle the speaker wires being spliced into, and it may be shorting the head unit out.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

1st the amp is powered from the batter with 18 gauge wire and the ground is also 18 gauge and grounded at the ground post on the passanger side at the seat post to the floor and is clear of all paint. The amp has high level inputs for the speaker connection so I dont have a line output converter because its not needed, The remote power is from my aux switch and its set on ignition. I have not checked the fuses in the jeep but I will do that tommorow. The problem is just the jeep head unit that looses power, the amp stays on when the head unit looses power,
and it only happens when the amp is on and I have it cranked past half way on the head unit volume. Maybe I need a line level converter becaue it maybe over driving the head unit when its cranked up. I know everything else is good. My back ground is I'm an aircraft mechanic and work avionic and know wiring, I'm just not sure on the stock stereo can handle the speaker wires being spliced into, and it may be shorting the head unit out.

I do believe you still need an LOC, but I'd also recommend a minimum of 8awg wire. 18 is just too thin, and could stress your system. Hope you get this resolved!

 

[krazyboi]

1st the amp is powered from the batter with 18 gauge wire and the ground is also 18 gauge and grounded at the ground post on the passanger side at the seat post to the floor and is clear of all paint. The amp has high level inputs for the speaker connection so I dont have a line output converter because its not needed, The remote power is from my aux switch and its set on ignition. I have not checked the fuses in the jeep but I will do that tommorow. The problem is just the jeep head unit that looses power, the amp stays on when the head unit looses power,
and it only happens when the amp is on and I have it cranked past half way on the head unit volume. Maybe I need a line level converter becaue it maybe over driving the head unit when its cranked up. I know everything else is good. My back ground is I'm an aircraft mechanic and work avionic and know wiring, I'm just not sure on the stock stereo can handle the speaker wires being spliced into, and it may be shorting the head unit out.

I have mine tapped into the rear speaker wires without an LOC since my amp has high level inputs, but am not experiencing any problems as you describe. I have mine grounded the same as yours, but at the ground post on the driver side rear seat instead of passenger side. I am using 8 gauge wire for power and ground.

 

[Lyleb80]

I have mine tapped into the rear speaker wires without an LOC since my amp has high level inputs, but am not experiencing any problems as you describe. I have mine grounded the same as yours, but at the ground post on the driver side rear seat instead of passenger side. I am using 8 gauge wire for power and ground.

I found the problem, it was the usb cable was shorting out when my iphone was connected. I changed to blue tooth and disconnected the usb from the console and have not had any issues since.

 

[Lyleb80]

My issue with the stereo shutting off is the usb input, I tried it from both outlets and the same thing happened I also tried a different usb cable. Now I need to find out why it is doing it. I m adding a picture of my subwoofer I built and installed.

 

[Lyleb80]

sorry for the blurry photo I will take another and also the picture of how I connected the amp at the pasanger piller

 

[Gaust]

Those look great. They have some awesome mid-bass options I've not seen before. Wish we could find a place for their 6x9 mid-bass series, wow!

I have a new pair of Kicker SSMB 8’s that I’ve been thinking of trying to incorporate into a system I had in a prior car. Has anyone built custom enclosures under the front seats? Either floor mounted, firing up or down fire attached to the seat? I’ve taken a quick look but haven’t pulled the seats. Looks like there should be enough room.

My thought was modifying the front pods for 5 1/4” separates, tweeters in the dash, two 8” mid bass under the seats with a single 10” sub in a custom enclosure. Under the rear seats, mount the amps and make a removable subwoofer for the other side or place it in the back. I’ve been out of the car audio world for a while but still have a bunch of gear from when I installed equipment.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I have a new pair of Kicker SSMB 8’s that I’ve been thinking of trying to incorporate into a system I had in a prior car. Has anyone built custom enclosures under the front seats? Either floor mounted, firing up or down fire attached to the seat? I’ve taken a quick look but haven’t pulled the seats. Looks like there should be enough room.

My thought was modifying the front pods for 5 1/4” separates, tweeters in the dash, two 8” mid bass under the seats with a single 10” sub in a custom enclosure. Under the rear seats, mount the amps and make a removable subwoofer for the other side or place it in the back. I’ve been out of the car audio world for a while but still have a bunch of gear from when I installed equipment.

It'd be tight with 8's under the front seats, but depending on how big the enclosures need to be, it may be possible. There are a few amplified enclosures that are 8's and they fit under there just fine.

Your main issue would be with mounting your gear under the rear seat, as the seat will no longer fold down all the way without resting on your gear.

I'm now using the Jeep Backbone, and have converted the secured backing plate into my amp rack. Oh, and it's weather proof, too!

Best of luck to you, and please share your results. I'd be interested in how the 8's work out!

 

[Gaust]

I have a few other projects going so it will take a while before I get around to working on the enclosures. I’ll check out the backbone system. My first step is to get a line output converter. It doesn’t sound like the line input into my Audio Control EQX 2 will work for this application. My plan is to work in stages. Install the loc, amplifiers, and speakers. Next the enclosures for the 8” midbass. The enclosures only need 0.5 cu ft and they have a very shallow mounting depth. I’ll probably make a fiberglass enclosure.
My main goal is to take up as little space as possible. I know I’d loose the functionality of the seats folding if I mounted the amps under them. I may make an amp rack in the rear storage bin. I’m still brain storming ideas, including a crazy idea of using Aura Bass Shakers in the front seat backs with the 8’s. I’d prefer to use a single 8” or 10” subwoofer for the low end.

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