Accidentally used 5W-20

[Tncdrew]

That's on the list. Still putting it back together after fixing the oil filter adapter/cooler leak, and installing Mishi radiator and trans cooler, 850w fan, 100a z-fuse, and Gladiator grill mesh, along with steering boost, etc.. Upper intake went on yesterday. Lots of other wires, hoses and do-dads to hook up, fill radiator, bleed and set pressure on steering, fenders back on, etc.

Nice work!! Great upgrades.
And with that controller, you can look forward to running around with sub-200° coolant temps! I know there were a lot of fan controller naysayers on another thread, but I can tell you first hand, they work. ?

Sponsored

 

[Willys41]

That's on the list. Still putting it back together after fixing the oil filter adapter/cooler leak, and installing Mishi radiator and trans cooler, 850w fan, 100a z-fuse, and Gladiator grill mesh, along with steering boost, etc.. Upper intake went on yesterday. Lots of other wires, hoses and do-dads to hook up, fill radiator, bleed and set pressure on steering, fenders back on, etc.

Looks like you will be solving a lot of problems at once.
I was going back and forth with steering pump boost put finely decided to go with the PSC big bore kit with ram. It works great put is extremely sensitive and takes a wile to get use to.
Now when I drive my wife's Rubicon for that split second I think there is something wrong with her steering and then remember no that's just the way they steer.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@Rhinebeck01

I noticed the laugh...

Is this a no no ? Or ?

Not so much of a "no" as a totally not needed and complete waste of money. Back in the days of API SG or SH this may have had some merit, but if you using a high quality oil today, it is absolutely not needed.

Also, depending on the oil's additive pack, adding 3rd party additives could actually weaken the oil's ability to fight sludge, combustion by-products, etc.

 

[Willys41]

Nice work!! Great upgrades.
And with that controller, you can look forward to running around with sub-200° coolant temps! I know there were a lot of fan controller naysayers on another thread, but I can tell you first hand, they work. ?

I agree 100000%
After about 6 months the fan controller has worked flawlessly.
Now I need to do the same to my wife's Rubicon

 

[Willys41]

Re posting this for those that had not seen it
Found this right up on the 3.6

Unfortunately I left the company as the Gen II was kicking off. I do know the engineering team was VERY nervous on the 0w-20 stuff and it was 100% for fuel economy. My personal opinion knowing the bearing surface area would not have gone up because of the cost I would go up a notch in weight. Not a lot of downside for the margin. Also, we are designing for 150-200K max, not 200k+ so that is always something to think about when OEM's make recommendations.

I would like to note there was this bearing coating they started using called iROX which was very impressive at the microscopic and testing level. It had to go on the front and back bearings to pass Stop-Start because of wear and was very expensive. They likely added that to the rest of bearings to make them work but I don't know for sure, I will have to ask. Regardless, the bearing surface area did not likely increase so from a basic physics point of view your hydrodynamic response to "filling it with water" as we called it will not go in a safer direction at lower rpm.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Not so much of a "no" as a totally not needed and complete waste of money. Back in the days of API SG or SH this may have had some merit, but if you using a high quality oil today, it is absolutely not needed.

Also, depending on the oil's additive pack, adding 3rd party additives could actually weaken the oil's ability to fight sludge, combustion by-products, etc.

Oh yeah I get that.

The reason I suggested it was because the OP was concerned that the oil weight he used was too low.

Thats why I suggested a "thickener"... a.k.a. an additive.

But honestly, I think he would have been ok with what he used.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Oh yeah I get that.

The reason I suggested it was because the OP was concerned that the oil weight he used was too low.

Thats why I suggested a "thickener"... a.k.a. an additive.

But honestly, I think he would have been ok with what he used.

Well (for me), if it was that much of a concern, just dump it. What are we talking about $25 for 5 QTs of oil? But he used 5W-20 in a 3.6L?

Much ado about nothing...

 

[SargeDiesel]

Well (for me), if it was that much of a concern, just dump it. What are we talking about $25 for 5 QTs of oil? But he used 5W-20 in a 3.6L?

Much ado about nothing...

I was just trying to help a brother out, as he asked for suggestions. $5 thickener is definitely cheaper than replacing the oil.

Me personally, I would have just left it alone and let it ride... that would have been the cheapest route.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I was just trying to help a brother out, as he asked for suggestions. $5 thickener is definitely cheaper than replacing the oil.

Me personally, I would have just left it alone and let it ride... that would have been the cheapest route.

Yep; I hear you and appreciate the suggestion, but the OP is reacting/worrying about nothing.

0W-20 and 5W-20 is indistinguishable in any engine that specifies xW-20 in it as the 3.6L does. There would be nothing to thicken--the number to the right of the "W" is what indicates operating temperature viscosity, and they are both "20".

Contrary to popular belief, the "W" stands for Winter and not Weight, ergo, the number to the left of the W indicates the cold weather performance of the oil.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Yep; I hear you and appreciate the suggestion, but the OP is reacting/worrying about nothing.

0W-20 and 5W-20 is indistinguishable in any engine that specifies xW-20 in it as the 3.6L does. There would be nothing to thicken--the number to the right of the "W" is what indicates operating temperature viscosity, and they are both "20".

Contrary to popular belief, the "W" stands for Winter and not Weight, ergo, the number to the left of the W indicates the cold weather performance of the oil.

I ? agree..

The only difference is, he was actually worried about the viscosity. He thought he put in 5W-30 and he actually put in 5W-20. So that does change things just a tinsy bit...

Depending on where he lives, heat could become an issue with the thinner oil (which is why I suggested thickening it up).

I can understand someone not familiar with it having a concern...

Hopefully he has gotten the info he needs from the forum, I bet he won't do it again ?
@alenk13

 

[CarbonSteel]

I ? agree..

The only difference is, he was actually worried about the viscosity. He thought he put in 5W-30 and he actually put in 5W-20. So that does change things just a tinsy bit...

Depending on where he lives, heat could become an issue with the thinner oil (which is why I suggested thickening it up).

I can understand someone not familiar with it having a concern...

Hopefully he has gotten the info he needs from the forum, I bet he won't do it again ?
@alenk13

Only if he WANTED to install 5W-30. The engine is spec'ed for 0W-20 so...5W-20 (for this exercise) is the same.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Only if he WANTED to install 5W-30. The engine is spec'ed for 0W-20 so...5W-20 (for this exercise) is the same.

Oh.... well hell... that changes things.

I have a JTRD and had no idea that the 3.6 called for 5W-20, so when the OP said he meant to use 5w-30...
I just figured that weight was correct.

But he used 5W-20 in a 3.6L?

Much ado about nothing...

So now I understand your statements...

 

[TheRaven]

Re posting this for those that had not seen it
Found this right up on the 3.6

Unfortunately I left the company as the Gen II was kicking off. I do know the engineering team was VERY nervous on the 0w-20 stuff and it was 100% for fuel economy. My personal opinion knowing the bearing surface area would not have gone up because of the cost I would go up a notch in weight. Not a lot of downside for the margin. Also, we are designing for 150-200K max, not 200k+ so that is always something to think about when OEM's make recommendations.

This is taken out of context. In the next paragraph, he goes on to explain why they recommend 0W-20 in the current version of the Pentastar and that he agrees.

Sponsored