400 miles and I get a CEL

[Melchior]

Welp. Been enjoying the new ride so far, but just got a Check Engine Light.
My rig is a ‘24 2-door manual Rubi with just 400 miles. Did proper break in and have been driving it normally with a combined city/highway driving.

Was stopped at a light. Engine stops as expected from ESS. Light turns green, I push the clutch in and engine fires right up. But then I get a message that says ESS is no longer available accompanied by a Check Engine Light. It drove fine. Pulled over. Turned ride off and fired her up again.

ESS message is gone, but CEL is still there. You folks have any ideas/theories as to what’s going on?

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[Heimkehr]

Possibly a faulty battery from new. It happens.

If you've a OBD-II reader, plug it in and pull the CEL code(s).

 

[Melchior]

Possibly a faulty battery from new. It happens.

If you've a OBD-II reader, plug it in and pull the CEL code(s).

If it is a faulty battery, which one do you think it’ll be? Main or aux?

 

[Heimkehr]

If it is a faulty battery, which one do you think it’ll be? Main or aux?

Objectively, either one. Just on principle, I'd guess the smaller Aux battery.

 

[autotragic]

If it is a faulty battery, which one do you think it’ll be? Main or aux?

Either or both. Probably aux but you can't be sure unless you test them. I know you aren't the first to have this problem lately and you won't be the last. These things are coming from the factory with junk batteries in them.

 

[Melchior]

Either or both. Probably aux but you can't be sure unless you test them. I know you aren't the first to have this problem lately and you won't be the last. These things are coming from the factory with junk batteries in them.

Ugh. Guess I’ll find out soon enough ?

 

[LazyJL]

If you own a JL, buy a code scanner, CELs are common and many disappear with the next restart.
I have never owned a vehicle that throws codes the way my JLR does.
A Taser can read and clear CELs and is faster and easier than using a code reader.

 

[Melchior]

Just pulled the code: P2af6. No idea what that is. Called my local dealer (I’m in LA County mind you) and the earliest they can get me in is April!! That is just INSANE!! Time to look for another dealer

 

[Heimkehr]

Just pulled the code: P2af6. No idea what that is.

Google

 

[autotragic]

Just pulled the code: P2af6. No idea what that is. Called my local dealer (I’m in LA County mind you) and the earliest they can get me in is April!! That is just INSANE!! Time to look for another dealer

This is why CDJR dealers suck. There is no reason on Earth why they should make you wait to get a brand new car looked at for something like this. Any dealer worth a damn would have said "Bring it on in and I'll have a tech look at it to see if it's something we can fix today". That's actual service. What they are doing is saying "screw you we don't care". And they wonder why people hate dealers.

 

[Melchior]

Welp. Called another dealer in San Fernando and earliest they can get me in is next month ?

 

[BVGeezer]

Just pulled the code: P2af6. No idea what that is. Called my local dealer (I’m in LA County mind you) and the earliest they can get me in is April!! That is just INSANE!! Time to look for another dealer

Jeep DTC P2AF6
Make:JeepCode:P2AF6Definition:Starter Relay 3 Stuck OffDescription:General Operation: The Engine Stop/Start (ESS) system uses a Power Control Relay (PCR) and two Batteries to eliminate the voltage drop in the system voltage during an Auto Start event. The purpose of this is for the consumer electronics and vehicle modules subsystems to continue to function in a normal manner. The Power Control Relay is connected in-line between the Main (Cranking) Battery and the Auxiliary (Vehicle) Battery. The Power Control Relay is normally closed when de-energized, connecting the two Batteries. When the Power Control Relay is energized, the relay opens and breaks the connection between the Batteries. The Power Control Relay is energized when 12.0 volts is supplied from the output of the PCR Control Relay in the PDC. The PCR Control Relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) using a Low Side Driver (LSD).Cause:

• POWER CONTROL RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
• POWER CONTROL RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
• POWER CONTROL RELAY IS STUCK OFF
• PCR CONTROL RELAY (ON PCB IN THE PDC) IS STUCK OPEN
• POOR CONNECTION AT THE AUXILIARY BATTERY POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE CABLE ENDS
• HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE AUXILIARY BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
• HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE AUXILIARY BATTERY GROUND
• FAULTY AUXILIARY BATTERY
• POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER (PDC)

 

[Melchior]

Google

Thanks Heimkehr. I tried reading similar posts on p2af6 on this forum with no strong conclusion. I’m not too knowledgeable on electrical systems. In the meantime, I’m going to just keep ESS off and hope this thing doesn’t leave me stranded until I can get it into a dealer

 

[dsgrey]

I don't know when you purchased it but I assume not long ago since it only has 400 miles. I'd be calling the salesperson and remind them this is part of your sales experience - no service after the sale. They can fit you in if they want. Mine had two hail dents sitting new on the lot and the dealers service department was backed up but amazing how it was fixed in under 2 hours since the sale was contingent on popping those out prior to me signing anything.

 

[Melchior]

I don't know when you purchased it but I assume not long ago since it only has 400 miles. I'd be calling the salesperson and remind them this is part of your sales experience - no service after the sale. They can fit you in if they want. Mine had two hail dents sitting new on the lot and the dealers service department was backed up but amazing how it was fixed in under 2 hours since the sale was contingent on popping those out prior to me signing anything.

I hear ya, man. Will probably have to do that. Just wanted to avoid an 80 mile drive if possible, but it seems like I might be out of luck.

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