2.0 Catastrophic failure at 90k

[roaniecowpony]

Pretty sure that's obvious. But I doubt OP had a hydro lock. As soon as your engine sucks in the water it's over, you don't drive on for a mile or half a mile or even a hundred feet. It locks up pretty much instantly.

I will have to disagree here, having grenaded an engine from hydraulic lock.

What happened in my case, was that the engine, a 2.0L turbo running 30+ psi boost) blew a head gasket after shifting to 2nd gear at Orange County drag strip. I detected a slight power loss, but turned in a good time/ET. When I let off the throttle, it sucked in water from the coolant jackets. Friends observed steam upon letoff. This damaged the connecting rod. But it wasn't obvious. I replaced the head gasket, oil, coolant, etc. Then took it for a drive down the street. Everything was normal. First time it came up on boost, the rod went through the side.

Sponsored

 

[Remorseless]

I will have to disagree here, having grenaded an engine from hydraulic lock.

What happened in my case, was that the engine, a 2.0L turbo running 30+ psi boost) blew a head gasket after shifting to 2nd gear at Orange County drag strip. I detected a slight power loss, but turned in a good time/ET. When I let off the throttle, it sucked in water from the coolant jackets. Friends observed steam upon letoff. This damaged the connecting rod. But it wasn't obvious. I replaced the head gasket, oil, coolant, etc. Then took it for a drive down the street. Everything was normal. First time it came up on boost, the rod went through the side.

Will say though that's different than what we're seeing in OP's pic. That much destruction would definitely be heard and felt in the vehicle.

 

[autotragic]

You don't have to buy EVERY warranty or NO warranty. You can use informed decision making to pick and choose what you decide to extend coverage on. Maytag washer or Toyota Camry? Probably not going to need that warranty. Harley or Jeep? Yeah probably should get the warranty. With FCA, you are more likely than not to need a major repair by 100k miles.

You "I NEVER buy an extended warranty because conspiracy" and "I ALWAYS buy the warranty cause you never know" guys are equally funny. Neither path is smart.



No, there's too many children here that have no manners and don't know how to behave in public. I don't think i'd come back either if I were OP.

I will have to disagree here, having grenaded an engine from hydraulic lock.

What happened in my case, was that the engine, a 2.0L turbo running 30+ psi boost) blew a head gasket after shifting to 2nd gear at Orange County drag strip. I detected a slight power loss, but turned in a good time/ET. When I let off the throttle, it sucked in water from the coolant jackets. Friends observed steam upon letoff. This damaged the connecting rod. But it wasn't obvious. I replaced the head gasket, oil, coolant, etc. Then took it for a drive down the street. Everything was normal. First time it came up on boost, the rod went through the side.

That's quite a different scenario than a Jeep driving through too deep water.

Also just wondering 4g63?

 

[KCSgtMaj]

This is exactly the reason why I didn’t get the 2.0T. With a modern vehicle and all the gizmos and gadgets, this was actually one thing I could control. I did not want a turbo. Though was the turbo the problem? Who knows?. could have been he just ran the piss out of the engine and it just gave up.

 

[Whaler27]

You don't have to buy EVERY warranty or NO warranty. You can use informed decision making to pick and choose what you decide to extend coverage on. Maytag washer or Toyota Camry? Probably not going to need that warranty. Harley or Jeep? Yeah probably should get the warranty. With FCA, you are more likely than not to need a major repair by 100k miles.

You "I NEVER buy an extended warranty because conspiracy" and "I ALWAYS buy the warranty cause you never know" guys are equally funny. Neither path is smart.

Conspiracy?

I'm not a conspiracy guy...

You may have a point. On the other hand, I'm on my 8th CJ/Wrangler and 14th Jeep since 1977. If we were JUST talking about Jeeps, I'd only be about $100,000 ahead, as the only "catastrophic" jeep failure I've had was blowing up a Dana 35 rear end on a 2006 TJ -- and that would not have been covered anyway, because I was trailing on oversized tires. (I used the opportunity to swap in a Ford 8.8 rear and re-gear to 456s, which also gave me rear disc brakes. It was a win-win-win. )

Declining warranties has nothing to do with imagining conspiracies. It's an intentional choice to self-insure. Since the warranty can be extended up until the factory warranty is exhausted, I've always had ample opportunity to evaluate the risks before deciding to keep or sell the jeep.

I'm not rich, and I have never earned big money, but a few simple choices have saved me HUGE amounts of money. The first is working myself into a position where I don't borrow money to buy vehicles anymore. Don't believe that makes sense? Look at the disclosures on the finance contract, including the "total amount you will pay over the course of the contract". In my state income is taxed to death, so I have to earn $10 to keep $5.50 to pay that interest differential -- so I can't consistently and reliably earn enough money in the stock market or elsewhere to compensate for the interest beating on anything that isn't expensible/deductible.

Declining extended warranties is another money-saving practice. I can't afford to self-insure against catastrophic health costs or a house fire, so I'm heavily insured in those areas because I have to be, but the insurance business is HUGE money. Insurance companies charge at a rate that's many times what the actual repair costs are. That's how they pay thousands of employees generous incomes, build stadiums, buy blimps, and own billion dollar buildings on Park Avenue in New York City. Self-insuring against smaller risks is financially smart -- so I don't pay $4,000 premiums to avoid a 1-in-100 risk of a $20,000 cost.

 

[roaniecowpony]

That's quite a different scenario than a Jeep driving through too deep water.

Also just wondering 4g63?

Scenario different, effect on the engine could be identical. I think the OP is either holding back information or is oblivious to what happened. Most people are not "engine people" and have very little, if any, feel or idea of what's going on with an engine when driving. Nothing wrong with not being that knowledgeable with engines, if that's the case.

 

[azwjowner]

I’m of the opinion that if the poster doesn’t participate in his or her own thread, the whole thread should be deleted. This is a forum, and incomplete posts serve no purpose. All it does is clutter the forum, particularly when people search for and find it in the future, and then after reading the whole thread find insufficient information and no resolution of the problem, so it‘s an unhelpful sideshow.

 

[grandsrus]

Will the OP ever reply again??

Hello @SaintNick , I'm in Southlake.....

 

[RustyACE]

My 2018 (Placed in service late April 2019)JLU 2.0 turbo self destructed at 90,550 miles recently. Almost immediately following a recall software update Y40, PMC and HCP updates, I had an Auto Stop/Start failure and Service Auto Stop/Start System message. The next day I get a check engine light with a P0344 code (Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent - Bank 1 Sensor 1. The next day I get a complete engine failure with a revving and what sounded like a downshifting. No audible bang or anything but on a loud highway uphill after a river crossing everything died and I drifted to the shoulder. No click or response in an attempt to restart. Fortunately I was immediately towed on Mother's Day morning off the highway to the dealership. I should add that I had something related to or the position sensor replaced under warranty a year or two earlier with similar struggling idle behavior and code. When the dealership finally responded to me during my previously scheduled appointment, I was informed that I needed a new engine as the fourth piston apparently exploded and was found in several hundred pieces in my oil pan. This engine has been meticulously maintained with oil changes well before the intervals the engine calls for. The only explanation I can come up with is a combination of improper fuel mixture combined with turbo and pre-detonation or timing. This simply shouldn't happen. If timing or fuel intro is that far off shouldn't it go into limp mode? Any other ideas how this could happen

The dealership simply asks if I have an extended warranty, to which I reply that I shouldn't need one. This engine wasn't worn out, something failed. I could accept a single mechanical issue coincidence with the software update, but not three. Of course, the dealership claims the software update had nothing to do with the mechanical failure. Has anyone else had a catastrophic failure like this? Pic of my oil pan and the destroyed 4th piston. This is the piston closest to the firewall. Piston gone and the engine is seized.

This isn't right.

Not sure what your next option is but contact RubiTrux and they have Take Out engines that they can ship you ready to install. You'll save big- or Jasper Engines will swap it our for a new rebuilt engine. Either way is a WHOLE lot cheaper than a NEW jeep.

 

[OlGray]

I know it’s not the point of the post, but for me this would be a good time to swap in a 392.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Conspiracy?

I'm not a conspiracy guy...

You may have a point. On the other hand, I'm on my 8th CJ/Wrangler and 14th Jeep since 1977. If we were JUST talking about Jeeps, I'd only be about $100,000 ahead, as the only "catastrophic" jeep failure I've had was blowing up a Dana 35 rear end on a 2006 TJ -- and that would not have been covered anyway, because I was trailing on oversized tires. (I used the opportunity to swap in a Ford 8.8 rear and re-gear to 456s, which also gave me rear disc brakes. It was a win-win-win.

Declining warranties has nothing to do with imagining conspiracies. It's an intentional choice to self-insure. Since the factory warranty can be extended up until the original warranty is exhausted, I've always had ample opportunity to evaluate the risks before deciding to keep or sell the jeep.

I'm not rich, and I have never earned big money, but a few simple choices have saved me HUGE amounts of money. The first is working myself into a position where I don't borrow money to buy vehicles anymore. Don't believe that makes sense? Look at the disclosures on the finance contract, including the "total amount you will pay over the course of the contract". In my state income is taxed to death, so I have to earn $10 to keep $5.50 to pay that interest differential -- so I can't consistently and reliably earn enough money in the stock market or elsewhere to compensate for the interest beating on anything that isn't expansible/deductible.

Declining extended warranties is another money-saving practice. It's simply self-insuring. I can't afford to self-insure against catastrophic health costs or a house fire, so I'm heavily insured in those areas because I have to be, but the insurance business is HUGE money. Insurance companies charge at a rate that's many times what the actual repair costs are. That's how they pay thousands of employees generous incomes, build stadiums, buy blimps, and own billion dollar buildings on Park Avenue in New York City. Self-insuring against smaller risks is financially smart -- so I don't pay $4,000 premiums to avoid a 1-in-100 risk of a $20,000 cost.

Wife and I talked a lot about borrowing for vehicles. I brought it up with our financial planner. Whether it's money ahead or down the drain, in one vs the other, hinges on whether you have the money invested (you should, of course), and how well, or not well, your investments appreciate vs loan interest. A decade ago, the decision for me was a slam dunk, I could borrow money for a fraction of what I was making in my investments. We had a dozen years of incredible ROI. Those days are past us and it's now a tougher job to get to even or ahead in this decision, either way.

 

[grandsrus]

Ummmm OP, you around???
Anything????
Bueler?????

 

[rcadden]

In before the thread lock!

 

[grandsrus]

Not sure what your next option is but contact RubiTrux and they have Take Out engines that they can ship you ready to install. You'll save big- or Jasper Engines will swap it our for a new rebuilt engine. Either way is a WHOLE lot cheaper than a NEW jeep.

Americas Most Wanted in Houston has them ready to go with low miles.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I’m of the opinion that if the poster doesn’t participate in his or her own thread, the whole thread should be deleted. This is a forum, and incomplete posts serve no purpose. All it does is clutter the forum, particularly when people search for and find it in the future, and then after reading the whole thread find insufficient information and no resolution of the problem, so it‘s an unhelpful sideshow.

I like these threads, once it's obvious the OP has vanished, because it raises the banter and rambling chats.

Sponsored