Ok how much to spend on Steering

[yokramer]

Trying to decide between the Rock Jock full knuckles and high steer kit or the Rock Krawler top moutnt drag link and aluminum steering. Are knuckle designed for the high steer worth the ~$600? Also like the CMM kit uses RK ends and their own aluminum alloy.

Would even be down to do the CMM kit and other knuckles.

RJ-440001-101 - JL/JT (Rubicon) High Steer Knuckle Kit (for Stabilizer Shock) $1900


Pro-X Top Mount Drag Link (JL/JLU/JT Rubicon and Wide Track Axles) $1300
Rock Krawler Weld-On High Steer Bracket For Jeep JL/JLU/JT
Hyde-A-Lizer, Aluminum Billet Clamp & Mounting Bracket Kit
Pro-X Tie-Rod (JL/JLU/JT RUBICON and WIDE-TRACK Axles)

https://cmmoffroad.com/products/cmm-offroad-jl-jlu-rubicon-wide-track-axles-full-steering-kit

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[WillysMeow]

No experience with the other parts you're asking about.

However, I would not use aluminum as it work hardens and cracks. Good steel is better IME and IMO as seen guys on the trail with broken aluminum bits. Also in case of major on trail problem, steel is much easier to weld.

 

[Terrymo]

@Roky

 

[yokramer]

@Roky

Yea I was sold on their steering but I would have to weld a bracket and it doesn’t come with the knuckles.

 

[WillysMeow]

The $100 dollar bracket is an easy weld job.

 

[Terrymo]

Those components are on my wish list, so selfishly I’d like to hear @Roky give his view on the RK components and aluminum vs steel in general.

 

[yokramer]

Those components are on my wish list, so selfishly I’d like to hear @Roky give his view on the RK components and aluminum vs steel in general.

I’m also not sure I actually need it is the thing too. Even at 3.5-3.75 of lift my drag link and track bar are pretty flat and even.

Also looking at the CMM kit they use the RK ends and a different alloy of aluminum

https://cmmoffroad.com/products/cmm-offroad-jl-jlu-rubicon-wide-track-axles-full-steering-kit

 

[Zandcwhite]

I went with the metalcloak flipped drag link and their bolt on bracket on the JT. We run the steersmarts yeti no drill flipped drag link on the wife's JLUR and their bracket also bolts on. No complaints about either and they've both been solid for tens of thousands of miles. No pics of the JLUR, but here's the JT. Both the xr and the JT mojave came with steel knuckles so I never even looked at any of the kits that replace them. Yes the tie rod is still stock because I'm cheap.

 

[Roky]

Had mine on a couple years now, no issues….The flipped drag link the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze for me…. I didn’t want to increase my bump stops to keep it from hitting the frame at full stuff like this….

..you can see in the pic I have 1-1/2” before hitting the frame, the bar is 1-3/4” so to maintain that separation I would have to add 2” more bump.. I’m already running 3.5” in front, which is perfect for my setup…..

Gods honest truth, I can drive 80 without any vibration, wandering, tracks dead straight, no bump steer etc, so I decided I’d rather keep my articulation…..

I’ve done a couple extra things to mine that isn’t necessary….. but I wanted to run my Fox ATS so I had to fab my own axle side bracket out of a MC bracket…. Also added a rubber bushing on the drag link …….pics of both…

Rock Jock is also a good company, and have good products… As far as aluminum vs steel, I really don’t have an opinion on which is better, when my yeti drag link shit the bed at 15k, I just wanted to try the pro x steering as it was just coming out about the same time……

 

[Soapy]

I went with the Metal CLoak flip drag link and steering stabalizer so far all is good. My son went with the full MC front steer system as his tie rod ends had wear. All was good with his except stock wheels would hit and he had to go with a different offset wheel or spacers.

 

[gek]

how much to spend?

 

[yokramer]

Had mine on a couple years now, no issues….The flipped drag link the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze for me…. I didn’t want to increase my bump stops to keep it from hitting the frame and full stuff like this….

..you can see in the pic I have 1-1/2” before hitting the frame, the bar is 1-3/4” so to maintain that separation I would have to add 2” more bump.. I’m already running 3.5” in front, which is perfect for my setup…..

Gods honest truth, I can drive 80 without any vibration, wandering, tracks dead straight, no bump steer etc, so I decided I’d rather keep my articulation…..

I’ve done a couple extra things to mine that isn’t necessary….. but I wanted to run my Fox ATS so I had to fab my own axle side bracket out of a MC bracket…. Also added a rubber bushing on the drag link …….pics of both…

Rock Jock is also a good company, and have good products… As far as aluminum vs steel, I really don’t have an opinion on which is better, when my yeti drag link shit the bed at 15k, I just wanted to try the pro x steering as it was just coming out about the same time……

Yea and the more I think about it I was just getting excited about the whole thing and really can get away with the regular steering and some steel knuckles.

Any opinion on knuckles?

 

[gek]

Yea and the more I think about it I was just getting excited about the whole thing and really can get away with the regular steering and some steel knuckles.

Any opinion on knuckles?

74 Welds knuckles should work.

 

[Roky]

Yea and the more I think about it I was just getting excited about the whole thing and really can get away with the regular steering and some steel knuckles.

Any opinion on knuckles?

I went with Reid’s , but that was before I knew you could get Mopar steel knuckles… So far I haven’t seen or heard of there being any difference, other than the Reid’s steering stops aren’t adjustable, but that hasn’t been an issue for me……

 

[yokramer]

74 Welds knuckles should work.

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