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Fusion 60/14b one ton axles.

SargeRubi3.0

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So I have been asking for a while on here and Facebook. I finally decided and ordered today, I went with a set of fusion 60/14b shaved. Also I opted for the 40 spline rear with 4.88s and air lockers. Can’t wait for them to get here, wanting to run a 40” Mickey Thompson Baja boss mt and not worry about if the axles will break.

what 40s are you guys running? im In ga so we got mud/clay/rutted out hills, not a ton of rock out here.
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JEEP4U

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I would have opted for at least 5.13 gears........on 40's with a 392........Don't be surprised on how much acceleration you loose. Heavy D60/14B and 40's............consume alot of power.

Maxxis Treps or Crawlers
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SargeRubi3.0

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I would have opted for at least 5.13 gears........on 40's with a 392........Don't be surprised on how much acceleration you loose. Heavy D60/14B and 40's............consume alot of power.

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I’m so confused when it comes to gears, I want it to be a better experience driving on hwy, trails are all a few hrs drive from me in the Atlanta area.
 

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I would have opted for at least 5.13 gears........on 40's with a 392........Don't be surprised on how much acceleration you loose. Heavy D60/14B and 40's............consume alot of power.

Maxxis Treps or Crawlers
MT Baja Boss MT
Interco Tires - Super Swamper
Nittos
Does the 3.0 in his name mean it's a diesel? Diesels like low rpms. I think the 4.88s would be perfect in that application. Even with the 392 there's plenty of torque there. Mathematically he'd be geared the same as stock if he runs a 43" tire so he is still likely to accelerate close to stock while still maintaining good freeway rpms.
 

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Math for gears doesn't factor in the weight and wind resistance that come with adding tons, large tires and a lift. He may be fine but its not like you are looking for gas mileage in that kind of set up. I'd personally go 5.38s and call it a day.
 

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SargeRubi3.0

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Does the 3.0 in his name mean it's a diesel? Diesels like low rpms. I think the 4.88s would be perfect in that application. Even with the 392 there's plenty of torque there. Mathematically he'd be geared the same as stock if he runs a 43" tire so he is still likely to accelerate close to stock while still maintaining good freeway rpms.
The 3.0 was my last Jeep, now I have a 392. Don’t know how to change my name lol
 
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SargeRubi3.0

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Math for gears doesn't factor in the weight and wind resistance that come with adding tons, large tires and a lift. He may be fine but its not like you are looking for gas mileage in that kind of set up. I'd personally go 5.38s and call it a day.
It didn’t have good mpg stock ??
 

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Math for gears doesn't factor in the weight and wind resistance that come with adding tons, large tires and a lift. He may be fine but its not like you are looking for gas mileage in that kind of set up. I'd personally go 5.38s and call it a day.
Equivalent to stock is 4.56 on 40s, he's one ratio below which will make up for weight and wind resistance in my opinion. Sure with a 3.6L or 2.0t I'd go lower. Diesels and 392s got 3.73s for a reason, they don't need super low gears.
 

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Equivalent to stock is 4.56 on 40s, he's one ratio below which will make up for weight and wind resistance in my opinion. Sure with a 3.6L or 2.0t I'd go lower. Diesels and 392s got 3.73s for a reason, they don't need super low gears.
The 392 with 40s and 5.38s drives GREAT.

i haven’t driven one with 4.88s or 5.13s but 5.38s 100% work.
 

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I am running fusion sixties front and rear on 40 Cooper sst and I can easily pass cars at freeway speeds anywhere from 55 to 85 without having to downshift. From what I remember, if I remember correctly, the 488 on 40s puts it 200 RPM, higher than factory, gearing and tires at freeway speeds. That being said 513’s might not be a bad way to go, I don’t know if I would go 5/38 because I don’t think it’s needed and that significantly we can figure the higher the ratio you go.
One thing you will need to watch for though is the fusion knuckles raise the tie rod up, so there’s not a whole lot of travel between the tie rod, and the Pitman arm connection point.

I have the metal cloak 4 inch kit and the tie rod with striking a Pitman arm frequently, I ended up getting the Acos adjustable front spring bucket with Hydro bump in the added lift height in Hydro bump solved my issues.

with 488’s in 2 Wheel Dr. from a dead stop without power braking if you punch it, the tires will break loose a bit, if you power brake, you can easily still spin the tires.

Jeep Wrangler JL Fusion 60/14b one ton axles. 02DCCE2E-0C36-4809-98BE-BBD7836B9D23
 

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SargeRubi3.0

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I am running fusion sixties front and rear on 40 Cooper sst and I can easily pass cars at freeway speeds anywhere from 55 to 85 without having to downshift. From what I remember, if I remember correctly, the 488 on 40s puts it 200 RPM, higher than factory, gearing and tires at freeway speeds. That being said 513’s might not be a bad way to go, I don’t know if I would go 5/38 because I don’t think it’s needed and that significantly we can figure the higher the ratio you go.
One thing you will need to watch for though is the fusion knuckles raise the tie rod up, so there’s not a whole lot of travel between the tie rod, and the Pitman arm connection point.

I have the metal cloak 4 inch kit and the tie rod with striking a Pitman arm frequently, I ended up getting the Acos adjustable front spring bucket with Hydro bump in the added lift height in Hydro bump solved my issues.

with 488’s in 2 Wheel Dr. from a dead stop without power braking if you punch it, the tires will break loose a bit, if you power brake, you can easily still spin the tires.

02DCCE2E-0C36-4809-98BE-BBD7836B9D23.jpeg
Any links and instructions to solve the tie rod issue
 

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I did have to make one modification to the echo, spacer, the metal cloak spring inner diameter is larger than the OEM so it didn’t seat well on the bucket, so I basically went to my local metal shop and got 2 Large aluminum circle blanks in for the center out to essentially create an oversized washer and that’s all of my issue, I can send pics later
 

Qwest4air

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If you don’t want additional ride height, one of the things I was flirting with, was changing the rod and around, if you look at the rod end on the drag link, where it attaches to the axle, that rod end has a different angle bent into it, and I was looking into, potentially putting that on the other side, to shim it out in front of four to clear the Pitman arm, I never move forward with it, because the adjustable spring perch and bump stop solved my problem
 

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I did have to make one modification to the echo, spacer, the metal cloak spring inner diameter is larger than the OEM so it didn’t seat well on the bucket, so I basically went to my local metal shop and got 2 Large aluminum circle blanks in for the center out to essentially create an oversized washer and that’s all of my issue, I can send pics later
Please post the pics here. I, for one, would like to see them. ?
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