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Kansas_Jerbear

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I’m seeing a lot of comments on paint corrosion issues. I’m looking at a 2018 JLU. Is it silly to buy this knowing warranty is over?
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Depends on the deal. It's a used Jeep. If you like it, buy it. The corrosion isn't rust but conflict between two metals that object to each other. Kind of like siblings in the back of the car on a long trip. Annoying but you deal with it and move on. Good luck!
 

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Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
Just look it over, for paint issues. If you don't see any, then you are good to go. We have a 2018 JLR, and it is a non-issue.
 

aldo98229

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Most paint issues are on and around the door hinges.

I can’t speak for other JLs, but my 2018 Sahara has no paint issues. On Saharas the standard sidesteps protect the door hinges from flying rocks and debris.

Good luck.
 

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Look over the hood, windshield frame, and tailgate completely. Corrosion happens not only on the hinges, but can appear just about anywhere. Example on the hood of my wife's '20 JLUSS below.

Jeep Wrangler JL New Jeep buyer IMG_1941


Jeep Wrangler JL New Jeep buyer IMG_1942
 
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Kansas_Jerbear

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Thanks. Would it make sense to find a newer but still used one? Would the warranty transfer
 

OldBlue

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Warranty should transfer, yes. Corrosion warranty is 5 years, unlimited mileage (in USA).
 

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In my opinion, warranty is best for major issues like the engine, transmission, axles, etc. Not for rattles, squeaks and minor imperfections. Any major defect should have shown up by now on a 2018.

Take it to an independent mechanic for an inspection. Check with a dealer to see what services were logged and if all of the recalls, if any, have been completed.

The first thing I look at on used vehicles is the tires. They tell you a whole lot about the owner. Are they in good shape, are they all the same size and brand, do they all match, are the wheels scraped up and the outside edges of the tires worn down.

Next, I look at the condition of the driver's seat. Is it mashed down, worn weird, filthy, broken, etc. Then I look at the rest of the interior to see if they took the time to clean it up. Spraying Armor All all over a dirty interior is not cleaning it up. If it's covered with shiny slick suff and the tires are dripping with shiny goop, be suspicious.

If it doesn't pass those too simple inspections on a late model vehicle, I'm out.

If all of that looks good, I open the hood. I look for lots of dirt, dried mud and oil stains. A coat of dust is to be expected. A clean engine bay is a good sign as long as it doesn't look like it was just done with a coat of shiny dressing sprayed everywhere.

Now look underneath. Did the previous owner take the time to clean mud and other debris out from underneath? I look for it to be dry and free of oil stains on the bottom of the engine, transmission and axles. Don't be concerned about a light coat of surface rust on heavy cast iron and steel suspension parts and axles. Look for signs of heavy rust/scale on the frame rails and the underside of the body tub.

If all of that looks good, pull the dipstick to see that the oil level is correct and that there is no indication of water or sludge on the dipstick. Dark oil means nothing.

If all of that looks good, walk around the body and inspect it well for signs of corrosion around the door, hood and tailgate hinges. It will look like bubble in the paint and there may be a fine white powdery residue where aluminum corrodes. Look for signs of paint/body work. If there are aftermarket bumper, steps, etc, check the finish on them and check for rust. Those aftermarket items add no value unless they are exactly what you would put on.

Now start it. Before you drive it walk around while it's idling and listen for unusual noises, rattles exhaust leaks etc. If all of that is good, it's time for a test drive.

When you drive it, leave the radio and AC off at first. Drive with the windows down and listen for rattles coming from underneath and any unusual noises from the engine. Then get it up to speed, check that the transmission shifts smoothly without jerks or hesitations. If it's a manual, make sure the clutch engages well and that it shifts easily into every gear with no rattles from the syncros. Now check that the AC and radio function. Turn the radio off again. Listen for anything that sounds off. Get it up to 60-65 and make sure there are no wobbles from bad tires and that the steering is firm and aligned with no shakes or shimmies. After you stop, make sure it goes into 4 wheel drive, both high and low. Drive it in a straight line a short distance to make sure that it functions as it should. If you can, try it on a gravel or dirt parking lot.

If all of that is good, and you're not mechanically inclined and you're serious about buying it, then it's time to get it inspected. It's your responsibility to pay for that, so do your best to choose wisely before paying a couple hundred bucks for that. If the seller won't cooperate on getting in to be inspected, then think seriously about why. If it's at a Jeep dealer, ask that they take it to a service bay and have a mechanic look it over with you, not the salesman. Ask lots of questions about things you don't know about.

Long read, I know, but good luck. I'm sure I forgot some things or that others will have good things to add.
 
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aldo98229

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Look over the hood, windshield frame, and tailgate completely. Corrosion happens not only on the hinges, but can appear just about anywhere. Example on the hood of my wife's '20 JLUSS below.

IMG_1941.jpg


IMG_1942.jpg
:surprised: Geez...!
 

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Yeah, sucks. I also just fixed the passenger's side sun visor. Oh, the sh!t we put up with for our beloved Jeeps...
 

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Most paint issues are on and around the door hinges.

I can’t speak for other JLs, but my 2018 Sahara has no paint issues. On Saharas the standard sidesteps protect the door hinges from flying rocks and debris.

Good luck.
I have nothing to add.
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