DanW
Well-Known Member
Ok. I've had two, both installed at the factory and they did the twist like Chubby Checker. Lol!I run the factory Mopar filter.
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Ok. I've had two, both installed at the factory and they did the twist like Chubby Checker. Lol!I run the factory Mopar filter.
The purpose was to share data and information and NOT to get into a tree marking, "I know better than you" thread NOR was it to say "Hey, everyone, you should be running FRAM filters because everything else is crap". Like the information, don't like the information, I could not care less, but the plain truth of the matter is that these ARE NOT 1990's filters despite all of the armchair, shade tree opinions that are being leveled against the filter with no supporting data whatsoever.What exactly is the purpose of this thread? To convince people to leave a Fram filter on for 20 thousand miles? Or is the OP having nagging thoughts and just trying to make himself feel better for doing so? Leaving an oil filter on for 20k is just laziness in my opinion. Especially with a filter brand that has such a mixed reputation. It’s reckless. It’s so easy and inexpensive to change an oil filter, why take the chance.
I have changed out hundreds of cartridge filters over the years and have never seen one (of unit I previously serviced) twisted or as filthy as the OP's.Hmm? Not when I do mine, I've never had a filter look like that...go easier on the torque kids.
Not sure what they did differently, sounds like they over-tightened itOk. I've had two, both installed at the factory and they did the twist like Chubby Checker. Lol!
How are you defining "filthy"? Color is a very subjective way to determine anything related to oil or its health.I have changed out hundreds of cartridge filters over the years and have never seen one (of unit I previously serviced) twisted or as filthy as the OP's.
I had used it once and then Advance Auto Parts put it on clearance so I picked up about 170 QTs for between $1 and $2 per quart. I have had 5 OCs with it at 5K per OC and the TBN (Total Base Number which indicates how much acid neutralization ability remains) is between a 2.81 and 1.95. There are four UOAs shown here as I am waiting on the results of the 5th run. The first 3 in the list was a 60/40 mix of 0W-20 and 5W-30 whereas the 4th was only 5W-30 (and so was the 5th).OP, lots of discussion here but I'm just curious on why you chose to go with Rotella Truck oil? Have you done oil analysis and had good results?
LOL - Advance Auto PartsHe has done a bunch of oil analysis and he is a cheapwad and got it at Autozone for 10$ a jug, then got 10$ rebate, used savings to buy more Sam Adams![]()
I would say yes. Why otherwise would someone spend all that money and effort tearing apart filters and paying for Blackstone reports?What exactly is the purpose of this thread? To convince people to leave a Fram filter on for 20 thousand miles?
You tell me. I will say it's a lot less miles than the filthy dirty black one you posted. For all i know it might be a new filter. I can only conclude, this is to prove you can abuse your oil pump and get your filter to the point of clogging and relying on the bypass.For example - how many miles are on this one?
Haha well the reason I asked is because I did the same thing for my JK. Bought like 60 quarts at advance auto parts when it was on sale. Hoping the analysis is really good since the price was so good for it.He has done a bunch of oil analysis and he is a cheapwad and got it at Autozone for 10$ a jug, then got 10$ rebate, used savings to buy more Sam Adams![]()
So could you dumb it down for me and give me your opinion on this oil vs other synthetics that you've had the analysis done? Is it comparable/better/worse? I did the same thing at advance auto and bought like 60 quarts for $1.50 each and have been using it on my JK!I had used it once and then Advance Auto Parts put it on clearance so I picked up about 170 QTs for between $1 and $2 per quart. I have had 5 OCs with it at 5K per OC and the TBN (Total Base Number which indicates how much acid neutralization ability remains) is between a 2.81 and 1.95. There are four UOAs shown here as I am waiting on the results of the 5th run. The first 3 in the list was a 60/40 mix of 0W-20 and 5W-30 whereas the 4th was only 5W-30 (and so was the 5th).
It loses about 10% of its viscosity due to shearing (since MPI engines like the 3.6L do not typically suffer from fuel dilution) and though TBN reduction is not linear, it loses about 60% of its TBN in 5K miles. I have self-imposed a TBN limit of 2.0 and thus 5K is a good OCI.
Hope this helps--let me know if you have any questions.
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I'm sure tolerances have some variation, especially with the combination of polymers and filter material. That's one of the best exampes I've ever seen with straight pleats.Not sure what you did differently
and as fate would have it, I actually changed mine today...7500 miles, here is the mopar filter....
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