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Winch wiring question

txbonds

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mounted our new warn m8000-s yesterday and need to run my wiring. I have a couple of quick questions that I hope folks can help with.

1.) Looking at the battery terminals, they are really small. How did everyone connect your wiring to your factory battery? Did you add any additional wire loom other than what comes on it, like to the solenoid box wires, etc?

2.) I’m going to put a battery switch on the positive line so we can leave it turned off when not in use, which is most of the time. Warn specs indicate a max draw of 435a on the M8000-s. I called warn and they were all but useless and could only offer that the ratings were intermittent and not continuous. If that is the case, would a switch rated at 400a continuous and 600a for up to 5 mins be sufficient? I’m thinking in general usage it would but want to make sure I’m understanding the amperage draw potential correctly. Was looking at these two types: https://www.wirthco.com/20247-7.html or http://www.marinco.com/en/770-ez


3.) any point in putting a 500a fuse on the line in addition to the switch? Seems like things would melt down before the 500a fuse would blow but maybe not. I realize these things are shipped with instructions saying to just wire direct but I want fire safety margin.


Enforce you call me crazy, I want to limit voltage on the line to the bumper when not in use like daily driving. I’d also like to limit some fowl play potentials as I’ve heard the tall tale of someone monkeying with the winch via a screwdriver across the lugs on the winch under the contactor/solenoid box. Anyway, thanks for any input.
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wanderer

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Never hav one it myself but you bring up some good points and I may reconsider
 

Sheepjeep

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1.) There is plenty of shave on the battery terminals for the wires to bolt into no issue when wiring mine

2.) As for the switch i personally or anyone i know have never felt the need for one but to each his own. If you go forward with it take the highest rated one, the winch will see max load when pulling soldering really stuck or heavy. The winch has a thermal shutoff that will kick in and shutdown the winch you don't want the switch to be your weak link. Another solution is just get quick connects and unplug it when no in use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHQR0K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0nC5AbMEP01T5

3.) A fuse is pretty worthless, the battery cables are huge for the winch and chance of them over heating are minimal, shorts can happen anywhere on the line so you be only protecting down stream of the fuse, and as stated before winch's have a thermal shutoff so if they offer draw on a pull out worked to hard they just shutoff until they cool down
 

FulThrotl

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3.) any point in putting a 500a fuse on the line in addition to the switch? Seems like things would melt down before the 500a fuse would blow but maybe not. I realize these things are shipped with instructions saying to just wire direct but I want fire safety margin.
i'd look into a fusible link @ 600 amps. not a fuse.
rule of thumb is you want it fused at 125% of full load current.

all you really are looking for is something to open up if the power lead shorts out.

taking the #2 winch power lead to ground will allow a LOT of heat, fire, and smoke
to occur. 1,350 amps, roughly. it'll arc weld anything it touches. the battery will not
like keeping up, and may catastrophically fail.

the winch motors are usually protected with running overcurrent protection.
fuse won't do anything to help with that.

the fusible link is only to protect the motor conductors, and the fire they might start
instead of the winch.
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