Which Oil Are You Using, And Why??

iamstillvince

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Well, I usually don't respond to oil threads but I will share my two cents:

I use that Amsoil stuff after reading over one million posts by Amsoil fans over the years. If Amsoil synthetic is not available, I'll buy the other big name brands. If I can find an oil that is colored purple or some other cool color, I'll buy that because it must be the best stuff.

I never buy the oil on sale because that means it's stale or near its expiration date. Just think about it. Why else would it be on sale? Would you drink milk after its expiration date? Of course not. I am too smart to fall for that scam. Buy from the store or online vendor with the highest prices. That's the good stuff. If I can pay at least $15 or $20 per quart, then I know it's going be a good oil.

With the Amsoil, like others state on forum threads, all my engine problems went away immediately and I gained around 25HP. Like magic. No ticking or other noises. Sometimes I am not even sure the engine is running its so quiet. I usually have to stick my hand down near the drive belts to feel if they are running. My windshield wipers also improved dramatically. Headlights are brighter too.

I change the oil and filter every 75 miles or 5 days just to be sure I am always getting maximum protection. Why run your beloved vehicle on used up garbage oil? Makes no sense at all. If I can't get it done on the scheduled day, my wife and/or 9 year old child know to change the oil/filter for me, so they can avoid my rage at the thought of running an engine even one day with old useless oil in it.
lol, u just summed up the entire Internet in 1 post :)





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Zotch

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Prefer lower noack (4.1% Amsoil vs 12.2% PUP) , higher viscosity 30W (PUP 20W is 8.8 [email protected] vs 10.0 Cst Amsoil) and higher moly and boron (Amsoil 250 ppm moly and 350 ppm boron vs 73 ppm moly and 215 ppm Boron for PuP) synthetic base oil, plus dont drive them in the winter. 20W is all for cafe. TBN is 8.6 for PUP and 12.5 Amsoil.
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entropy

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Pennzoil synthetic ultra. When I looked for a video on how to change the oil thats what they used, it is also one of the recommended in the user manuals. I just looked online and it was priced reasonably at like $20. So I didnt go into the oil rabbit hole and bought it. People overthink this stuff too much.
 

zouch

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yeah, *another* oil thread...

@calemasters starts out with a critical point; which motor?


i've had extremely good experience with Red Line over the years and will probably continue to use it in my turbo-diesel.

this started when we were looking for an oil that wouldn't coke up in a weekends racing a radically mod'ed custom turbo'd early Mazda rotary that ran crazy hot.
from there, i found it was the best at maintaining target oil pressure across a wide temperature range in the old Adventure XJ 4.0L. (we're talking all kinds of speeds, in everything from below 0ºF to above 120ºF. note that the XJs with their tiny radiators were not known for being great at cooling themselves, but a liquid-to-liquid oil cooler and a Mishimoto aluminum radiator helped.)
it's even what we ran in the Mercedes Turbo-Diesel that we put over 100K miles on running almost exclusively B99 BioDiesel.
Oil Analysis in all of these applications showed very good results at standard drain intervals.

the Mazda is still running well, though neither of us has raced in a while.
the XJ went over 250K before it threw the #6 rod under full throttle. (#6 was typical for these, due to the aforementioned cooling challenges.) at rebuild, it barely required a bore, and we were even able to consider re-using the stock crank.
the MBZ was still running strong when sold with almost 300K on it, and was still in spec for compression.

bottom line, i've seen Red Line perform excellently with high and low heat, multiple fuel types, and a couple of turbos. having seen the inside of the 4.0L after over 220K miles on Red Line (the first 30K were on Dino oil), i'm looking to use something i know does the job in my new turbo-diesel. i would not argue this was the most scientific way to come to a conclusion, but it's enough that i am sufficiently comfortable with it.


note that Jeeps listing for oil in the 3.0L in the Users Manual (quoted below) is a little strange; they only "recommend" oil that meets their MS-12991 spec, but they "require" a SN type oil even though SN is a Gasoline grade oil. ("recommend" vs. "require" might sound like nit-picking, but it's the sort of legalese you'll be dealing with if you come up against a denied warranty claim.)
fortunately, Red Line has a 5W-40 that meets all these, as well as some more stringent Mfrs specs and the CF requirements for Diesel oil.


from the Users Manual for the 3.0L diesel:
"We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar that
meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category
is required."



In my 3.0L turbo-diesel, I use Pennzoil Platinum Euro Full Synthetic 5w-40 motor oil. This oil meets / exceeds the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-12991, and is API SN certified.

So far I have 2,048 miles and no lubrication related failures. Unlike the engine below.

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DanW

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Quaker state synthetic.
Because it dramatically outshines Mobil 1 in independent testing as well as my own oil analysis. And I used to get it for $3 a quart.
Mobil one does not perform well at elevated temps, significantly loses ware protection and degrades.

Note - Amsoil is the best oil for ware protection in 0w20 formulation according to ware protection testing.
Ok, Lol. Mobil 1 shines in my engines. Has for over 3 decades. And who do you think makes the base PAO oil for Amsoil? You guessed it.

Check the flash point on the Quaker State, which is great oil, and compare it to Mobil 1 EP, then let us know which one handles heat better. Be sure to convert metric to English and you'll see a stark contrast.
 

BlackGenesis

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Ok, Lol. Mobil 1 shines in my engines. Has for over 3 decades. And who do you think makes the base PAO oil for Amsoil? You guessed it.

Check the flash point on the Quaker State, which is great oil, and compare it to Mobil 1 EP, then let us know which one handles heat better. Be sure to convert metric to English and you'll see a stark contrast.
My oil testing results looked significantly better with Quaker state compared to mobile (5k intervals, twin turbo 3.5 that gets pushed hard). Also compared them on NA 3.8 engine that runs above factory revlimiter, better results with Quaker state. Also oil tends to disappear between oil changes while QS holds level.

Independent oil testing indicates significant drop in protection at elevated temps 270 deg F.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

People tend to go with Mobil because it's well advertised oil - must be good because they day it is. Just like POS Royalty Purple - one of the worse oils you can buy.

Note, not all Mobil created equal. Those that are marked as FS European (0w20 or 0w40) have very good performance and stand up well to racing applications.
 
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DanW

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My oil testing results looked significantly better with Quaker state compared to mobile (5k intervals, twin turbo 3.5 that gets pushed hard). Also compared them on NA 3.8 engine that runs above factory revlimiter, better results with Quaker state. Also oil tends to disappear between oil changes while QS holds level.

Independent oil testing indicates significant drop in protection at elevated temps 270 deg F.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

People tend to go with Mobil because it's well advertised oil - must be good because they day it is. Just like POS Royalty Purple - one of the worse oils you can buy.
Not a fan of RP, but did you do an industry standard test, like sequence IV-A? Or one of the newer ones? I'm not reading that whole blog. Interesting, but waay too long. Slick 50 used to do the old ball bearing test. That was discredited when they got sued and also when someone showed Dawn dish soap did even better than any oil. If it isn't an industry standard test, then I'm not interested.

My father was an engineer with Allison/Rolls Royce. He did a great deal of testing on turbine engines and worked alongside chemical engineers from several oil vendors. He said that in that realm, no company's products stood up to Exxon Mobil's synthetic oils, which were NOT group III. I don't even think they had group III then. So he ran Mobil 1 in his cars and that's where I started, not by their advertising. And I've run many others, too, and had great luck with them, including Quaker State. But none have turned in any significantly better UOAs than Mobil 1. In my Ecoboost, Mobil 1 EP has had the best UOA. Although it should be noted that the providers of UOA's tell you up front that you should not and really cannot measure wear by them, only trends. But they still looked good. I've never, ever had an oil related problem with any of them. But I choose Mobil 1 EP because of its higher content of true synthetic base oil.

I've done UOA's in my JK's 3.8 and QS did fine, but no better than any other, either. M1 tends to burn off a little less in that engine, so I've continued to run it. It's at 147k miles now and compression is within spec for a new engine. I'd say M1 has been in it about 80% of the time.

You do realize that QS is considered by SOPUS to be a tier below Pennzoil Platinum, right? It is believed to be be using a Group III base while PP uses GTL, which they tout as superior. It might not be, but that's how they talk about it.

QS might be one of the best values out there, though. I think it's 18 bucks for a jug at Wallyworld. That's a very good deal.
 

2020Sport

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Nope. Won't do that to any of my engines. I stay within the manufacturer's guidelines.

So you are saying that with a 7.5k to 8k OCI, Amsoil Signature won't outperform M1? That's what I think. But you can give it a go, if you'd like. I'll try it. PM me and I'll tell you where to send it. I'll even video the oil changes.

It'll cost you less than being a site supporter. Put your money where your keyboard is!
Why not? AMSOIL has proven and warranted it for 50 years. Oh, yeah, Mobil 1 hasn't. I don't blame you. AMSOIL outperforms M1 right out of the bottle. You've seen the independent standard tests, haven't you? If not, I'll provide.
 

wolf

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Why not? AMSOIL has proven and warranted it for 50 years. Oh, yeah, Mobil 1 hasn't. I don't blame you. AMSOIL outperforms M1 right out of the bottle. You've seen the independent standard tests, haven't you? If not, I'll provide.
 

wolf

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VNT

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some asked why 10w-30, a few pics of my 5.9 with 100k when did the valve cover gasket and my 2.4Turbo in my PT GT, SRT motor with 120K had leaky plug tube seal.
mostly Amsoil and few older Mobil 1 flavors

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Ok so just making an observation here.

Every single post from 2020Sport is about oil (just checking post history).

EVERY....SINGLE...ONE

Not saying anything is wrong with this...just an observation because I have nothing to do.
 

2020Sport

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Ok so just making an observation here.

Every single post from 2020Sport is about oil (just checking post history).

EVERY....SINGLE...ONE

Not saying anything is wrong with this...just an observation because I have nothing to do.
Yeah, I'm a retired Shell Oil chemist and currently have my own business selling AMSOIL, Wix, Donaldson and Mann products to hundreds of businesses and customers. Chemistry, oil, filtration and maintenance interest me and this seems to be what most want to talk to me about.
 

VNT

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well this thread beats the stupid Bronco threads on a Jeep forum.

I find it interesting what flavors of oils people use, snap shot of stash 7 yrs back, have a lot more free oil in my basement along with some brews.

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