Wheel suggestions

[jadmt]

we've answered the "why" part.

trim ring grief; use a different shop, or spin them off and on yourself, or don't use them at all. R&R would only take a few moments with the electric wrench. it's not like they're serving any function except to protect the bolt threads, so as long as you don't overtorque them putting them back on it's not critical.

credit card; doesn't have anything to do with the wheels, but see above; use a different shop or pay cash.

DD; i don't know why most people would use a JL(U) for a DD. buying a separate wheel just to lower unsprung weight makes it seem more like the wrong DD, but we all do inexplicable things.

that's me lol...I run two sets of tires/wheels on my jeeps always have..easy for me to swap back and forth and take up way less room in the garage then a 3rd vehicle and I ain't paying registration and insurance on a second set of tires...but yea I know it aint for everyone.

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[Terrymo]

that's me lol...I run two sets of tires/wheels on my jeeps always have..easy for me to swap back and forth and take up way less room in the garage then a 3rd vehicle and I ain't paying registration and insurance on a second set of tires...but yea I know it aint for everyone.

On road off road, or seasonal, or?

 

[jadmt]

On road off road, or seasonal, or?

I put my 37's on if going offroad or taking a road trip that has the potential to have offroading...otherwise I run around with my pizza cutters to save wear and tear on my 37's. we do a lot of roadtrips so just nicer having two sets.
i am probably the odd one but i like the oem rubicon style and it’s pretty light.

 

[2nd 392]

Well, you brought up the CC and I just got gouged for a new $40 3% CC fee on a GC repair - -still 4% ahead though

The beauty ring nuisance is workable if planned. Flats aren’t planned and excessive charges to R&R have been reported.

Now, as for the extra 40-80 lbs to run fake beadlocks, it’s kinda like having a

we've answered the "why" part.

trim ring grief; use a different shop, or spin them off and on yourself, or don't use them at all. R&R would only take a few moments with the electric wrench. it's not like they're serving any function except to protect the bolt threads, so as long as you don't overtorque them putting them back on it's not critical.

credit card; doesn't have anything to do with the wheels, but see above; use a different shop or pay cash.

DD; i don't know why most people would use a JL(U) for a DD. buying a separate wheel just to lower unsprung weight makes it seem more like the wrong DD, but we all do inexplicable things.

 

[zouch]

i referenced Credit Card to describe how i used mine to pay me to buy the wheels; not to complain about it.

removing a trim ring isn't hard even if you were to have to in order to repair a flat, but unless you're lucky enough to get 2 flats in a row, odds are you're only swapping a spare in if you get a flat. in that case you're not likely to be R&R'ing a ring at the time.
i've never run into a shop that charged to do it, but i never let one, either.

i wouldn't personally be eager to run fake beadlocks, but some people apparently like the look (just like some people apparently like the look of a winch whether it serves any purpose or not).
i ran mine in non-beadlock configuration until i could actually find the real lockrings and get my next set of tires.
since i see so many with the trim rings, apparently lots of people may have their own reasons.

Well, you brought up the CC and I just got gouged for a new $40 3% CC fee on a GC repair - -still 4% ahead though

The beauty ring nuisance is workable if planned. Flats aren’t planned and excessive charges to R&R have been reported.

Now, as for the extra 40-80 lbs to run fake beadlocks, it’s kinda like having a

 

[2nd 392]

i referenced Credit Card to describe how i used mine to pay me to buy the wheels; not to complain about it.

removing a trim ring isn't hard even if you were to have to in order to repair a flat, but unless you're lucky enough to get 2 flats in a row, odds are you're only swapping a spare in if you get a flat. in that case you're not likely to be R&R'ing a ring at the time.
i've never run into a shop that charged to do it, but i never let one, either.

i wouldn't personally be eager to run fake beadlocks, but some people apparently like the look (just like some people apparently like the look of a winch whether it serves any purpose or not).
i ran mine in non-beadlock configuration until i could actually find the real lockrings and get my next set of tires.
since i see so many with the trim rings, apparently lots of people may have their own reasons.

I was complaining about the new 3% CC charge. Anyway, fake displeases me. I liked the looks of the stock BCD’s but they were the pre XR 7.5” 44.45mm. and I had no intention of going beadlock. So I upgraded and shaved 10 lbs per wheel at the same time Yes, I am a bit of a rotational mass/unsprung weight weenie. Sprung not so much, I got steel fenders.
Had fun with the sparring, like I used to do with Flip.
oh yeah, I finally just ordered the center caps for the new wheels ordered January ot 24, received July of 24. Caps out of stock since then until I checked (again and often) an hour ago.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

i referenced Credit Card to describe how i used mine to pay me to buy the wheels; not to complain about it.

removing a trim ring isn't hard even if you were to have to in order to repair a flat, but unless you're lucky enough to get 2 flats in a row, odds are you're only swapping a spare in if you get a flat. in that case you're not likely to be R&R'ing a ring at the time.
i've never run into a shop that charged to do it, but i never let one, either.

i wouldn't personally be eager to run fake beadlocks, but some people apparently like the look (just like some people apparently like the look of a winch whether it serves any purpose or not).
i ran mine in non-beadlock configuration until i could actually find the real lockrings and get my next set of tires.
since i see so many with the trim rings, apparently lots of people may have their own reasons.

I'm going to call "perspective" on this one. I don't consider them fake beadlocks. I call them trim rings but in reality, consider them bash rings. I feel that it would be, and will be as I am soon to be buying new wheels, easier/cheaper to replace the bash rings than to replace the whole wheel.

My wheels are in perfect condition, but my bash rings are dinged up from rocks.

My next wheels are going to be Vision Nemesis 111s with the plastic bash rings. Even easier and since they are molded in color, they won't be shiny silver where they hit the rocks.

 

[Terrymo]

I'm going to call "perspective" on this one. I don't consider them fake beadlocks. I call them trim rings but in reality, consider them bash rings. I feel that it would be, and will be as I am soon to be buying new wheels, easier/cheaper to replace the bash rings than to replace the whole wheel.

My wheels are in perfect condition, but my bash rings are dinged up from rocks.

My next wheels are going to be Vision Nemesis 111s with the plastic bash rings. Even easier and since they are molded in color, they won't be shiny silver where they hit the rocks.

Yes even though I sarcastically say “fake beadlocks” rather than “beauty rings” they have saved a lot of damage to the wheels themselves grinding against rocks. I did manage to take a minor chunk out of one wheel, but I would never run the XR wheel without this ring offroad.

 

[jadmt]

I'm going to call "perspective" on this one. I don't consider them fake beadlocks. I call them trim rings but in reality, consider them bash rings. I feel that it would be, and will be as I am soon to be buying new wheels, easier/cheaper to replace the bash rings than to replace the whole wheel.

My wheels are in perfect condition, but my bash rings are dinged up from rocks.

My next wheels are going to be Vision Nemesis 111s with the plastic bash rings. Even easier and since they are molded in color, they won't be shiny silver where they hit the rocks.

I wish could find poly (plastic) rings for my AEV wheels. I sold the bead lock rings and just use the protection rings but if I could find poly I would go that route.

 

[zouch]

I was complaining about the new 3% CC charge. Anyway, fake displeases me. I liked the looks of the stock BCD’s but they were the pre XR 7.5” 44.45mm. and I had no intention of going beadlock. So I upgraded and shaved 10 lbs per wheel at the same time Yes, I am a bit of a rotational mass/unsprung weight weenie. Sprung not so much, I got steel fenders.
Had fun with the sparring, like I used to do with Flip.
oh yeah, I finally just ordered the center caps for the new wheels ordered January ot 24, received July of 24. Caps out of stock since then until I checked (again and often) an hour ago.

yes, charges suck. but we've been paying for those CC service company charges indirectly for a long time already, just some sellers are finally attributing them to where they come from rather than charge all their customers for them. i have to begrudgingly admit that's probably fair.

yeah, we miss Flip.

talk about out of stock; the real Bead Lock Rings for the Mopar Beadlock Compatible wheels were out of stock for over 2 years. i finally figured out that there had been a P/N change and the rings were still available under the old P/N, and that's what i ended up getting.

I'm going to call "perspective" on this one. I don't consider them fake beadlocks. I call them trim rings but in reality, consider them bash rings. I feel that it would be, and will be as I am soon to be buying new wheels, easier/cheaper to replace the bash rings than to replace the whole wheel.

My wheels are in perfect condition, but my bash rings are dinged up from rocks.

My next wheels are going to be Vision Nemesis 111s with the plastic bash rings. Even easier and since they are molded in color, they won't be shiny silver where they hit the rocks.

yeah fake beadlocks isn't fair; i just followed the lead on that one. technically they are real beadlocks, whether one uses them that way or not.

Yes even though I sarcastically say “fake beadlocks” rather than “beauty rings” they have saved a lot of damage to the wheels themselves grinding against rocks. I did manage to take a minor chunk out of one wheel, but I would never run the XR wheel without this ring offroad.

the trim rings i had are <ahem!> fairly 'well scuffed'; the thing that bothered me about that was that they were painted. like you guys, i consider them contact points with the expectation that they would be making rock contact, and thought it stupid to paint something that is meant to rub against rocks (though i realize some people do that specifically for a 'look').
what i thought stupider was the hardware used; while those Torx head bolts look nice (and i love Torx fsntrs in other applications), getting one out when it's been rashed off on a rock is harder than it should be. yes, it's possible by a variety of methods, but putting a set of Vice Grips on the head of a standard bolt works much more easily and (IMHO) is much more practical. again, only an issue for people that actually rub them against rocks,..

 

[Terrymo]

yes, charges suck. but we've been paying for those CC service company charges indirectly for a long time already, just some sellers are finally attributing them to where they come from rather than charge all their customers for them. i have to begrudgingly admit that's probably fair.

yeah, we miss Flip.

talk about out of stock; the real Bead Lock Rings for the Mopar Beadlock Compatible wheels were out of stock for over 2 years. i finally figured out that there had been a P/N change and the rings were still available under the old P/N, and that's what i ended up getting.




yeah fake beadlocks isn't fair; i just followed the lead on that one. technically they are real beadlocks, whether one uses them that way or not.




the trim rings i had are <ahem!> fairly 'well scuffed'; the thing that bothered me about that was that they were painted. like you guys, i consider them contact points with the expectation that they would be making rock contact, and thought it stupid to paint something that is meant to rub against rocks (though i realize some people do that specifically for a 'look').
what i thought stupider was the hardware used; while those Torx head bolts look nice (and i love Torx fsntrs in other applications), getting one out when it's been rashed off on a rock is harder than it should be. yes, it's possible by a variety of methods, but putting a set of Vice Grips on the head of a standard bolt works much more easily and (IMHO) is much more practical. again, only an issue for people that actually rub them against rocks,..

I just touch up with rattle can Rustoleum truck bed liner which dries in less than an hour. Not because it looks great but I just prefer to have everything blacked out…just my own weirdness.

 

[Terrymo]

Ok nobody may care by now, but I did weigh the 5 XR wheels I removed prior to installing KMC bead locks. With wheel weights removed, and valve stems without TPMS sensors, here is the heaviest of the 5 according to my super duper accurate (not) GE digital scale. Reportedly accurate within 0.1 pounds. I weighed each wheel 3 times with the same results for whatever that is worth. 37.4 pounds was the heaviest. 37.1 was the “lightest”.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Well, my 7.5” pre XR BCD wheels *are 31 lbs. The 8” shouldn’t be that much heavier, certainly not 17 lbs. I would want confirmation on the 48 lbs before acceptance.
• replaced with 21 lb 8.5” -1mm beadgrip knurled.

The reason they are so much heavier is because they are beadlock capable. Check any wheel manufacturer and compare their beadlock wheels to their non-beadlock wheels and you'll see that the beadlock wheels are always heavier, for strength reasons.

 

[2nd 392]

The reason they are so much heavier is because they are beadlock capable. Check any wheel manufacturer and compare their beadlock wheels to their non-beadlock wheels and you'll see that the beadlock wheels are always heavier, for strength reasons.

Per Gek, factory 48.4lb XR wheel, 62.4lb 315 KO2 = 110.8 lbs
Per Terry, the same combo 103.4 lbs, , the stripped wheels 37.1-.4 lbs but +62.4 = 99.8.
something doesn’t add up. There’s a missing variable for 110.8 lbs, but If the KO2 315’s are the 63.7 lb 113 T not the 62.4 lb 113 S variant it almost approaches Terry’s numbers considering stripped wheels.
…… yes my 7.5” BCD’s were 31 lbs so 8” at 37 lbs is a bit over expected but reasonable.
When tire shopping Dec of 23 DT said the “S” was discontinued, superseded by the “T” (Ford) variant. S was still available though.

 

[Nokones]

Ok nobody may care by now, but I did weigh the 5 XR wheels I removed prior to installing KMC bead locks. With wheel weights removed, and valve stems without TPMS sensors, here is the heaviest of the 5 according to my super duper accurate (not) GE digital scale. Reportedly accurate within 0.1 pounds. I weighed each wheel 3 times with the same results for whatever that is worth. 37.4 pounds was the heaviest. 37.1 was the “lightest”.

Was that wheel weighed under central valley foggy conditions or during a clear day; what about the wind, a north or Tehachapi/Ridge Route wind, or on a calm wind day; and what about the humidity, low valley humidity of 25% or a high valley humidity of 60%; and there is the valley temperature that also could make a difference, was it a typical cold-ass cold or a pleasant valley warm temperature. These climate elements could make a humongous impact on the accuracy of the scale readings.

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