Wheel suggestions

[Decreasing Dave]

I get the memorization part. I will be reciting the same. She wasn't big on going to 37s until we were at EJS and even in the Sophomore group, we were only one of maybe 5 jeeps out of 36 that were on 35s, almost everyone else was on 37s+.

Now that I know the sheer weight of the stock XR wheels, I will be reciting the same data that you were with hopes of some leniency, haha.

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[Blckdog]

Method 703’s are 27lbs. Ko3 285 70 17c are 56lbs. Total weight 83 lbs.

 

[yokramer]

Boy good thing we used machine learning when there already was actual people posting showing the weight of the XR wheels in here .....

 

[zouch]

seriously?

looks. (subjective, but you can't argue with it. to each their own.)
Original Equipment on some J**ps.
(alleged) mfr support. (J**p might be around a while longer than some of the aftermarket companies, and is certainly more readily available.)
cost. (in my case, they were purchased with points from a J**p card that i was using to buy everything anyway, at a discount price from a friendly neighborhood Parts guy, using a double points special from the card.)


and PSST!
my tailgate twisted carrying 'just' a 35.

Which leads to the question. Why TF would anyone run them unless using the beadlock capability ? Especially when adding possible tire shop hassle for just the trim rings. (DT insisted on unnecessarily R&R’ing, to their credit at no extra charge). …. My 31 Lb 7.5” 44mm BCD’s replaced with 21 lb -1mm wheels.
80 less lbs rotational mass and unsprung weight over the XR’s. My 8.5” wheel 35/12.50 combo is 80 lbs, 2 less than the stock 7.5” BCD 285/70 KO2 combo…… added bonus, no gate reinforcement needed, my back’s 3 ruptured discs also appreciate it lifting the spare.

 

[Nokones]

I really like my Method 106 Beadlocks with the Mickey Bajas on my 23 Wrangler Rubi 2 Dr. I am able to airdown to 10 PSI for the trails.

 

[Terrymo]

seriously?

looks. (subjective, but you can't argue with it. to each their own.)
Original Equipment on some J**ps.
(alleged) mfr support. (J**p might be around a while longer than some of the aftermarket companies, and is certainly more readily available.)
cost. (in my case, they were purchased with points from a J**p card that i was using to buy everything anyway, at a discount price from a friendly neighborhood Parts guy, using a double points special from the card.)


and PSST!
my tailgate twisted carrying 'just' a 35.

I like the looks. They came with the XR package. If the offset was better I would keep them and add true beadlock rings to them. I have a JLU so it’s already pretty fluffy. I don’t commute so I don’t really care about lost mpg and I’m not obsessive over wheel and tire weight. I’ve ground a good amount off the fake beadlock rings and taken a chuck out of one wheel. I’ll probably sell them really cheap or give them to someone in one of the Jeep clubs we wheel with that needs them when I get new wheels.

 

[Terrymo]

I really like my Method 106 Beadlocks with the Mickey Bajas on my 23 Wrangler Rubi 2 Dr. I am able to airdown to 10 PSI for the trails.

Those look good. Whats the offset or backspace? Thanks

 

[2nd 392]

seriously?

looks. (subjective, but you can't argue with it. to each their own.)
Original Equipment on some J**ps.
(alleged) mfr support. (J**p might be around a while longer than some of the aftermarket companies, and is certainly more readily available.)
cost. (in my case, they were purchased with points from a J**p card that i was using to buy everything anyway, at a discount price from a friendly neighborhood Parts guy, using a double points special from the card.)


and PSST!
my tailgate twisted carrying 'just' a 35.

Yes, seriously, if not using the beadlock capability why live with the extra rotational mass and unsprung weight that aren’t your friend. Plus the trim ring grief from some tire shops. My BCD’s are stored in case I ever want to use them, (unless I go 37’s) because they are the 7 1/2” 44mm giving me more reason to change.

the cheap local now charges 3% for CC’s , 7% points now worth 4.

If my gate twists with the 35’s combo it would twist with the stock 33’s combo that was 2 lbs heavier.

edit- it’s my DD, if just part time I wouldn’t spend the money mostly just for weight.

 

[Nokones]

Those look good. Whats the offset or backspace? Thanks

17"X9" - 44mm/3.5mm

https://www.methodracewheels.com/co.../106-beadlock-machined?variant=39259741978685

And, these wheels are not made in Pandaland or in any small child labor land.

 

[Terrymo]

17"X9" - 44mm/3.5mm

https://www.methodracewheels.com/co.../106-beadlock-machined?variant=39259741978685

And, these wheels are not made in Pandaland or in any small child labor land.

Thanks

When I talked to Method tech support a few months ago they said all their wheels, including bead locks, are manufactured in China then machine finished here. I think that’s true of many of the big name brands of offroad wheels.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Boy good thing we used machine learning when there already was actual people posting showing the weight of the XR wheels in here .....

I so glad you appreciate it.

There were several actual people posting the weights but the common theme with all of them was disbelief and uncertainty. The people posting weren't just weighing the wheels, they were weighing the tires as well and then deducing the wheel weight. I just used "machine learning" to confirm everyone's rudimentary math equations.

You're welcome

 

[Nokones]

Thanks

When I talked to Method tech support a few months ago they said all their wheels, including bead locks, are manufactured in China then machine finished here. I think that’s true of many of the big name brands of offroad wheels.

Well, I guess things have changed some.

About three years ago when I bought my 106s, the modular/racing wheel parts, such as the 106s, were produced in either the United States and/or Australia and assembled in Temecula. I don't know where the one-piece/cheaper wheels were produced, I suspect Pandaland.

Forging/foundry work would be a criminal act and a big NO NO in California.

 

[yokramer]

I so glad you appreciate it.

There were several actual people posting the weights but the common theme with all of them was disbelief and uncertainty. The people posting weren't just weighing the wheels, they were weighing the tires as well and then deducing the wheel weight. I just used "machine learning" to confirm everyone's rudimentary math equations.

You're welcome

 

[zouch]

we've answered the "why" part.

trim ring grief; use a different shop, or spin them off and on yourself, or don't use them at all. R&R would only take a few moments with the electric wrench. it's not like they're serving any function except to protect the bolt threads, so as long as you don't overtorque them putting them back on it's not critical.

credit card; doesn't have anything to do with the wheels, but see above; use a different shop or pay cash.

DD; i don't know why most people would use a JL(U) for a DD. buying a separate wheel just to lower unsprung weight makes it seem more like the wrong DD, but we all do inexplicable things.

Yes, seriously, if not using the beadlock capability why live with the extra rotational mass and unsprung weight that aren’t your friend. Plus the trim ring grief from some tire shops. My BCD’s are stored in case I ever want to use them, (unless I go 37’s) because they are the 7 1/2” 44mm giving me more reason to change.

the cheap local now charges 3% for CC’s , 7% points now worth 4.

If my gate twists with the 35’s combo it would twist with the stock 33’s combo that was 2 lbs heavier.

edit- it’s my DD, if just part time I wouldn’t spend the money mostly just for weight.

 

[Terrymo]

Well, I guess things have changed some.

About three years ago when I bought my 106s, the modular/racing wheel parts, such as the 106s, were produced in either the United States and/or Australia and assembled in Temecula. I don't know where the one-piece/cheaper wheels were produced, I suspect Pandaland.

Forging/foundry work would be a criminal act and a big NO NO in California.

Surprisingly there are still several industrial forging/foundry operations in California. I grew up when we proudly bought everything “made in the U.S.A” because it meant quality, and if something broke we exclaimed, “Probably cheap Chinese junk!”. Now it seems both countries are capable of producing quality products and junk.

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