What is your total toe alignment setting at?

[Brian0128]

My wife and I are trying to fix the wandering feeling at highway speed. We had the alignment checked and we had 4.8 caster and a total of .21 total toe. We swapped about the control arms for the Mopar 62392798AA control arms to get a bit more caster over the factory 4.8 today (hoping for 5.8) and now we are looking at the toe settings. I’ve seen recommendations to set total toe as high as .50. The factory specs I have found say .20 (+-.20) which would be a max of .40 at the highest setting.

What did you set your toe at to minimize wandering at highway speed and get the vehicle to track well?

2019 JLUR with at March 2019 build date with stock wheels, tires and height.

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[fat_head]

.10 left and .11 right. I had my alignment done 3 days ago to help fix the wandering steering. They did not change my toe adjustment however whatever it is they changed made a huge improvement.

 

[Brian0128]

Are you on a lift or stock height?

2019 JLUR with at March 2019 build date with stock wheels, tires and height.

 

[Brian0128]

Have you seen this? I’m on a Mopar lift, my toe is within the spec shown here, and my castor is at 6.5 degree. My Jeep tracks straight as an arrow. You may want to get adjustable lcas so you can adjust more castor than those fixed control arms can give you.

I did see that. Are those the alignment specs for the Mopar lift or stock? Do you have adjustable control arms or the Mopar fixed length ones that I do? Do you know your exact toe setting? Do you haves picture of the alignment sheet by any chance?

 

[Brian0128]

.10 left and .11 right. I had my alignment done 3 days ago to help fix the wandering steering. They did not change my toe adjustment however whatever it is they changed made a huge improvement.

Do you know what they changed? I checked all of the torque values on the front suspension today when upgrading the control arms. Camber is not adjustable and caster was adjusted with the Mopar 2” lift arms.

 

[fat_head]

Do you know what they changed? I checked all of the torque values on the front suspension today when upgrading the control arms. Camber is not adjustable and caster was adjusted with the Mopar 2” lift arms.

These are my values, before and after. Hopefully you can read it, being sideways and all lol. I just noticed they used JK specs. *sigh* It still drives noticeably better though.

 

[Sheepjeep]

What's your tires pressure at?

 

[rustyshakelford]

Steer smart recommends a .5 degree positive toe. I have an alignment machine and that’s what I set any I do to

Brett

 

[Brian0128]

What's your tires pressure at?

33 cold, 36 hot.

 

[Brian0128]

Steer smart recommends a .5 degree positive toe. I have an alignment machine and that’s what I set any I do to

Brett

Thanks. I’ll give that a try.

 

[roaniecowpony]

33 cold, 36 hot.

Look at your tires. Are the molding nubs still on the edges of the tire tread, but not the center? That's your clue.

All this alignment stuff is the same bunny hole I went down. In the end, dropping my tire pressure down to run 31-32 psi hot is what made more difference than any alignment setting. I can drink coffee and one hand the wheel at 80 mph on LA freeways, which aren't all that smooth and flat. Take another 4-5 psi out of your tires. It's a free $$ modification and takes maybe 5 minutes of your time. Ignore the TPMS light or get a Taser.

4.5 caster and 1/8" (.20 degrees) toe-in is a very common manufacturer recommended alignment for everything from sports cars to 1 ton solid axle trucks. Setting unusual angles to make up for something else is not how I'd approach it. As toe-in is increased, more scrubbing of the tires occurs, bringing less tire life, less fuel economy and higher temperatures

Changing your caster changes your pinion angle at the same time, since the knuckles and center section is welded together. There can be unintended consequences from chasing caster angle without regard to pinion angles. The only way to change one without changing the other is by cutting the axle tubes and welding.

Just lower the pressure and try it. If it doesn't work, air them back up to the pressure you want and start spending some coin.

BTW, some of us believe the OEM recommended tire pressures were driven by Corporate Average Fuel Economy requirements, which FCA apparently still didn't meet and is facing penalties.

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