Tire & wheel offset question. What am I doing wrong?

[azwjowner]

Yes, you're correct. I believe a +25mm offset would be fine to clear the Apex links with my skinny tire. The problem is finding a 7.5" wheel with +25mm offset. ?

The OEM alloy wheels have recessed pockets where wheel studs can protrude, allowing the use of wheel spacers as thin as 1.25". If your steel wheels are the same, you can order a set of spacers here: https://www.motorsport-tech.com/bora.html

1.25", that takes your stock wheels out to +20mm. Good enough. And it's cheap.

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[Flip]

The OEM alloy wheels have recessed pockets where wheel studs can protrude, allowing the use of wheel spacers as thin as 1.25". If your steel wheels are the same, you can order a set of spacers here: https://www.motorsport-tech.com/bora.html

1.25", that takes your stock wheels out to +20mm. Good enough. And it's cheap.

I might be forced to go that route.

Unfortunately, these wheels would have worked out if the offset was just a little more and cost less than spacers. ?

Vision Wheel SW60 17x6.5 5x127 40mm Black | SW60-7673B40 (vividracing.com)

 

[dlong1119]

The OEM alloy wheels have recessed pockets where wheel studs can protrude, allowing the use of wheel spacers as thin as 1.25". If your steel wheels are the same, you can order a set of spacers here:

Considering steel wheels don't have a thick mounting surface (usually just a formed piece of metal) that I've ever seen, I doubt you're going to find that. You could always trim the end of your studs a little with a cutoff wheel though. Do it slowly and carefully so you don't heat them up too much and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[dlong1119]

You could also possibly run some slip-on spacers with a wheel that is close to fitting to add another 1/4" or so of offset. I believe they make some that are hubcentric and also keep the wheel hubcentric.

 

[azwjowner]

You could also possibly run some slip-on spacers with a wheel that is close to fitting to add another 1/4" or so of offset. I believe they make some that are hubcentric and also keep the wheel hubcentric.

Those kind (slip on) are the dangerous ones that you shouldn't use. Spacers should have their own studs.

 

[azwjowner]

I might be forced to go that route.

Unfortunately, these wheels would have worked out if the offset was just a little more and cost less than spacers. ?

Vision Wheel SW60 17x6.5 5x127 40mm Black | SW60-7673B40 (vividracing.com)

You could always buy just one and try it. Remember that not only will the whole wheel move 4mm further out, but because the rim is 1" narrower than stock, the tire's section width is reduced by approximately 0.4". https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/how-to-determine-the-section-width-of-a-tire

So if the sidewall gets 0.4" narrower, and the whole wheel moves 4mm further out, that's about a third of an inch of extra clearance gained on the inside. Might that be enough?

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

You could also possibly run some slip-on spacers with a wheel that is close to fitting to add another 1/4" or so of offset. I believe they make some that are hubcentric and also keep the wheel hubcentric.

This is a big no for an off-road vehicle.
Hub centric spacer with proper lugs is the right way to go..

 

[dlong1119]

Those kind (slip on) are the dangerous ones that you shouldn't use. Spacers should have their own studs.

This is a big no for an off-road vehicle.
Hub centric spacer with proper lugs is the right way to go..

I've never used the slip-on spacers myself, although I've used numerous bolt-on spacers/pattern adapters over the past 25 years on various vehicles with no problems.

What is the issue seen with a quality slip-on? I'm not talking about the old pot-metal, universal lug type that was sold at the auto parts store, but a billet spacer of about 1/4-1/2" max thickness, that is hubcentric to the wheel and vehicle? Obviously you need to make sure you have proper lug engagement on the stud threads. Something like this: https://www.uswheeladapters.com/shop/5-lug-custom-adv-so/

For years, bolt-on spacers/adapters were a huge no-no, and many people still think of them that way although generally they've become far more accepted. The only problems I've seen are due to cheap quality, improper installation, or not re-checking the lug torque as needed. I think this is where they got most of their stigma from.

I'm not sure if it's corporate/store policy, or if things have changed since, but my local Discount Tire told me about 10 years ago that they weren't allowed to touch a vehicle with bolt-on spacers/adapters installed.

 

[Flip]

You could always buy just one and try it. Remember that not only will the whole wheel move 4mm further out, but because the rim is 1" narrower than stock, the tire's section width is reduced by approximately 0.4". https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/how-to-determine-the-section-width-of-a-tire

So if the sidewall gets 0.4" narrower, and the whole wheel moves 4mm further out, that's about a third of an inch of extra clearance gained on the inside. Might that be enough?

The two photos are at full turn but not full flex. Just my guess there looks to be maybe another 3" before full flex, which is a lot of upward travel towards the apex link. It would also be a lot of pressure on it and I'm afraid it might snap in half. 8.4mm isn't going to be enough but every little bit helps. What about this: I add an additional 2" of bump stop, plus the new wheel, moving it out 8.4mm

I don't know, what do you think?

 

[azwjowner]

The two photos are at full turn but not full flex. Just my guess there looks to be maybe another 3" before full flex, which is a lot of upward travel towards the apex link. It would also be a lot of pressure on it and I'm afraid it might snap in half. 8.4mm isn't going to be enough but every little bit helps. What about this: I add an additional 2" of bump stop, plus the new wheel, moving it out 8.4mm

I don't know, what do you think?

I'd ditch the apex links before I threw away 2 inches of flex...are these the 8" Apex disconnects? They look so long Im wondering if they're the 10". If they are 10", try the 8".

I agree, tire looks too close with uptravel. You're going to push the tire out much more than that.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

I'd ditch the apex links before I threw away 2 inches of flex...are these the 8" Apex disconnects? They look so long Im wondering if they're the 10". If they are 10", try the 8".

I agree, tire looks too close with uptravel. You're going to push the tire out much more than that.

yeah increased bump stop will prevent this but that defeats the whole point of having all the flex at your disposal. The bump stop is only there to prevent knocking your fenders.. it shouldnt be compromised just to get sway bar link clearance.

 

[Flip]

I'd ditch the apex links before I threw away 2 inches of flex...are these the 8" Apex disconnects? They look so long Im wondering if they're the 10". If they are 10", try the 8".

I agree, tire looks too close with uptravel. You're going to push the tire out much more than that.

They are the 8" stroke links.

 

[SkDmRkLcY]

Those wheels seem to have a rather low weight capacity. I would be concerned with being close to load and bending super easily.

 

[Flip]

Those wheels seem to have a rather low weight capacity. I would be concerned with being close to load and bending super easily.

I didn't know that, what is the load rating for them?

 

[SkDmRkLcY]

Vivid site seems to say 1550 which like I said probably okay but not by a lot. Most wheels are in the 2500 lb rating that I have looked at.

I tend to like to use my wheels and tires to pivot and smack things.. thus my concern but everyone is different.

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