Thoughts on initial gear pattern?

[zeebo56]

Currently working on my Dana 30 front end. I decided to just get a gear pattern to see what I'm working with.

One thing to note is I forgot to put the shim between the pinion gear and the pinion bearing so that would actually push the pinion closer to the ring when I get the shim moved. Would that yield me a better pattern?

Also backlash is around .023 right now. Moving the pinion closer to the ring should decrease that as well right?

Thanks

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[zeebo56]

According to this image I'd think putting that pinion shim would possibly take care of my pattern?

 

[zeebo56]

Also if adjusting the pinion depth, would I be better off adding shims behind the inner pinion race and case or put back the stock shim between the pinion and inner bearing?

The stock shim between the pinion and inner bearing is pretty thick, about .06-.07 from looking at it but ill have to measure when I get it off.

Seems like I would be better off adding shims behind the race and case to fine tune the pinion depth.

 

[word302]

You're not getting a clear pattern. You need to thin your gear paint and put a good amount of resistance on the the ring gear as you turn the pinion. You need to turn the gears through the paint 5 or 6 times in each direction (continuously turning the pinion, not just back and forth as you will engage different teeth each time around). The pinion depth shims go between the inner race and the housing, not on the pinion shaft. Also don't bother running a pattern if your backlash isn't within spec, it's a waste of time and tells you nothing. Do you have the proper pinion and carrier preload? Did you change all your bearings?

 

[zeebo56]

You're not getting a clear pattern. You need to thin your gear paint and put a good amount of resistance on the the ring gear as you turn the pinion. You need to turn the gears through the paint 5 or 6 times in each direction (continuously turning the pinion, not just back and forth as you will engage different teeth each time around). The pinion depth shims go between the inner race and the housing, not on the pinion shaft. Also don't bother running a pattern if your backlash isn't within spec, it's a waste of time and tells you nothing. Do you have the proper pinion and carrier preload? Did you change all your bearings?

Thanks for the reply.

I'll be working on a few things tomorrow. So mine did come with a shim between the pinion head and bearing. See photo below comparing to the 4.88 pinion on the bottom. I think that is a point of confusion when I'm trying to explain my situation to people. One gear shop mentioned this while others didn't and then I noticed the shim there.

I did change all bearings. Pinion and carrier preload isn't fully done yet. But I'm pretty sure I need to get that stock shim back on the pinion for pinion depth to at least be somewhat close and that should also maybe change my backlash a bit. Then I can adjust backlash from there.

 

[word302]

Thanks for the reply.

I'll be working on a few things tomorrow. So mine did come with a shim between the pinion head and bearing. See photo below comparing to the 4.88 pinion on the bottom. I think that is a point of confusion when I'm trying to explain my situation to people. One gear shop mentioned this while others didn't and then I noticed the shim there.

I did change all bearings. Pinion and carrier preload isn't fully done yet. But I'm pretty sure I need to get that stock shim back on the pinion for pinion depth to at least be somewhat close and that should also maybe change my backlash a bit. Then I can adjust backlash from there.

Huh, I guess the 30s are set up old school. Either way you currently have no pinion shim which is not even in the realm of close. Start with that factory shim, get your BL and both preloads into spec and then get a pattern after thinning your paint with gear oil.

 

[zeebo56]

Huh, I guess the 30s are set up old school. Either way you currently have no pinion shim which is not even in the realm of close. Start with that factory shim, get your BL and both preloads into spec and then get a pattern after thinning your paint with gear oil.

Will do thanks. Yeah a few people I've shown it to have also said it's weird and said the same thing that the shim was behind the race. But this Dana 30 is old school it seems.

 

[word302]

Will do thanks. Yeah a few people I've shown it to have also said it's weird and said the same thing that the shim was behind the race. But this Dana 30 is old school it seems.

How'd it turn out?

 

[zeebo56]

How'd it turn out?

So I think it turned out pretty good.

The guy at mobile gear installers here in southern california is awesome. He was the one that pointed out the shim between the pinion and bearing.

So I met with him today and he swapped over the bearing for me and gave me some shims just in case but said I probably wouldn't need them.

Went to @JLUin818 place and put everything together. Backlash was .007 or so. I think the pattern looks good. What do you think?

 

[zeebo56]

Also one issue I'm running in to is tightening the axle nut on the passenger front side. It just spins since the fad is to the right so it isn't locking the right side. It's in 4 hi but do I need to turn on the jeep for it to engage since I put it into 4hi when the jeep was off?

Any tips for that part? Thanks.

Also big thanks to @chevymitchell as I never would have attempted this without his diy write-up. And he has also answered a lot of my questions along the way and he also has great videos.

 

[word302]

So I think it turned out pretty good.

The guy at mobile gear installers here in southern california is awesome. He was the one that pointed out the shim between the pinion and bearing.

So I met with him today and he swapped over the bearing for me and gave me some shims just in case but said I probably wouldn't need them.

Went to @JLUin818 place and put everything together. Backlash was .007 or so. I think the pattern looks good. What do you think?

Looks pretty good man. Could maybe be a hair deeper but I’d run it. Just make sure you have enough carrier preload and run it.

 

[word302]

Also one issue I'm running in to is tightening the axle nut on the passenger front side. It just spins since the fad is to the right so it isn't locking the right side. It's in 4 hi but do I need to turn on the jeep for it to engage since I put it into 4hi when the jeep was off?

Any tips for that part? Thanks.

Also big thanks to @chevymitchell as I never would have attempted this without his diy write-up. And he has also answered a lot of my questions along the way and he also has great videos.

Maybe a large pry bar between your wheel studs?

 

[zeebo56]

Looks pretty good man. Could maybe be a hair deeper but I’d run it. Just make sure you have enough carrier preload and run it.

By deeper you mean less pinion shim?

I wass able to get around 20 torque to rotate but crushing that crush sleeve was a pain in the ass. This job is hard to do when you only have the jeep on jackstands.

 

[word302]

By deeper you mean less pinion shim?

I wass able to get around 20 torque to rotate but crushing that crush sleeve was a pain in the ass. This job is hard to do when you only have the jeep on jackstands.

By deeper you mean less pinion shim?

I wass able to get around 20 torque to rotate but crushing that crush sleeve was a pain in the ass. This job is hard to do when you only have the jeep on jackstands.

Deeper would be more shim. So you have 20 torque to rotate for pinion preload. You need to also measure the carrier bearing preload by measuring total torque to rotate with the carrier installed. Check the specs for your axle but that should add another 6 or 7 in/lbs. if it’s low you need to add carrier shims to tighten it up.

 

[zeebo56]

Deeper would be more shim. So you have 20 torque to rotate for pinion preload. You need to also measure the carrier bearing preload by measuring total torque to rotate with the carrier installed. Check the specs for your axle but that should add another 6 or 7 in/lbs. if it’s low you need to add carrier shims to tighten it up.

I had around 27 total torque to rotate when everything was together. No way to add any more shims as the stock ones needed to be nudged in with a mallet. It is a tight fit already. I put the front end back together. I think it is at a point that should work well so as you mentioned I am just going to run it.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions.

I will be doing the rear end today and was planning on maybe hitting a light trail but then realized I need to break this in. Maybe I will get 500 miles done in 2 days haha.

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