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Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Recommendations?

AllJumpStyle

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8855-01 is our front track bar relocation bracket on the axle side in our installed pictures. It also relocates the sway bar link up so you can use the quick disconnects. It is not released yet but will be very soon with our 3" Stage 3 Suspension System.
8859-01-D5-1200.jpg
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AllJumpStyle

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Do you have a picture with the Fox 2.5 with DSC mounted up? The resi and hose aren't mounted here and I'm trying to see how that works with the swaybar mounting spot. Does the disconnect interfere with the resi hose?
The resi hose just goes in front of the disconnect bracket on the frame side. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures right now.
 

lembowski

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8855-01 is our front track bar relocation bracket on the axle side in our installed pictures. It also relocates the sway bar link up so you can use the quick disconnects. It is not released yet but will be very soon with our 3" Stage 3 Suspension System.
8859-01-D5-1200.jpg
Makes sense, I’m running your 3” coils and love them. Been waiting on this one for awhile now.
 

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lembowski

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Has anyone installed front synergy quick disco sway bar links? Any feedback?
I did them last weekend. All super simple except for the passenger side sway bar relocation bracket. I think the factory weld was off by an 1/8 of an inch and really had to hammer on it to get into place. They are easy to disconnect and the ride fees much better without sway bar links that are to short.
 

mgroeger

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Cheapest option is a wrench, socket wrench, and a torque wrench (to get them back on at spec)
This is true but when it's 90 degrees, laying in a gravel/dirt parking lot (or trail head) in direct sun and all you (and your buddies) want to do is hit the trail the $85 (Metal Cloak) and 60 seconds of time is well worth it. :)
 

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This is true but when it's 90 degrees, laying in a gravel/dirt parking lot (or trail head) in direct sun and all you (and your buddies) want to do is hit the trail the $85 (Metal Cloak) and 60 seconds of time is well worth it. :)
Oh MC are that cheap? Well shoot sign me up. Quick question: does disconnecting sway bars result in your tires traveling UP more? I know it allows for greater flex down, but what about a wheel going up? I have concerns about it hitting my fender liner
 

lembowski

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Cheapest option is a wrench, socket wrench, and a torque wrench (to get them back on at spec)
That’s like saying the cheapest option to deflate your tires is pushing your key on the valve core. There is always a cheaper option, but that doesn’t mean it’s the most convenient.
 

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mgroeger

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Oh MC are that cheap? Well shoot sign me up. Quick question: does disconnecting sway bars result in your tires traveling UP more? I know it allows for greater flex down, but what about a wheel going up? I have concerns about it hitting my fender liner
They are the cheapest option I believe but there are two trade offs... $15 to ship (not that big of a deal) and you need at least a 3.5" lift and even then they are pushing the sway bar upward.
That being said, disconnecting your sway bar will allow full articulation which means both directions of tire travel. Remember this is a SFA (solid front axle) vehicle. If one tire goes down the other MUST go up the same amount.
Whether or not your tire hits the inner fender will have to do with how much bump stop you are running and what fenders you have.
Example, on my 2018 Rubi I am running a 3.5" lift with 37" tires with the appropriate bump stop per manufacturer (Teraflex) spec. My wife is running the same lift on her 2018 Sahara and the manufacturer states to use more bump stump so that the tires won't rub. This is because her fenders sit lower. We didn't want to add more bump stop because then we will lose out on articulation so we ran the same bump stop setting as my Rubi BUT we changed out her fenders to allow for more articulation.
If you have more questions feel free to PM me and we can chat via phone, waaaaaaay to much to type if you are coming up the learning curve :)
 

ThirtyOne

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That’s like saying the cheapest option to deflate your tires is pushing your key on the valve core. There is always a cheaper option, but that doesn’t mean it’s the most convenient.
It's not that big a deal. I use an impact wrench and then zip tie the bars. It literally takes 3 minutes. Much quicker than airing down. You can see from this thread that people have real concerns about the quick disconnects being the right length, working with the other mods they have done, or having to cut things to get them in. Manual disconnect is a reasonable alternative if you have those concerns.
 

mgroeger

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It's not that big a deal. I use an impact wrench and then zip tie the bars. It literally takes 3 minutes. Much quicker than airing down. You can see from this thread that people have real concerns about the quick disconnects being the right length, working with the other mods they have done, or having to cut things to get them in. Manual disconnect is a reasonable alternative if you have those concerns.
I was going to say something like "There's this guy we wheel with who we are always waiting for as he is laying in the dirt unbolting his discos" but then I thought you could fire back with "There's this guy we are always waiting for." LOL ;)

Hey, there's another t-shirt idea... something with a guy laying under his Jeep unbolting his discos :)
 

PyrPatriot

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That’s like saying the cheapest option to deflate your tires is pushing your key on the valve core. There is always a cheaper option, but that doesn’t mean it’s the most convenient.
I was using a tire pressure gauge to don’t that and my gauge broke
 

ThirtyOne

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I was going to say something like "There's this guy we wheel with who we are always waiting for as he is laying in the dirt unbolting his discos" but then I thought you could fire back with "There's this guy we are always waiting for." LOL ;)

Hey, there's another t-shirt idea... something with a guy laying under his Jeep unbolting his discos :)
I've gotten faster. Not like NASCAR pit-crew fast. But faster.
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