All depends on the angle of the sway bar. On flat level ground, you want your sway bar to be about 15 degrees or so up. If it's flat or down, there's a better chance of the sway bar flipping the wrong way at full drop.
I got the rk no limits links, they’re made specifically for the rubicon elect disco. They work great.......
There's really no need for sway bar links that are that overbuilt. Kind of a gimmick if you ask me. Not for $300 anyways. There are plenty of options available on the market to choose from. Disconnect tour your current sway bar end links, rotate your sway bar upwards and take a measurement of what length you need. No need to spend $300.
This. A lot of people will set their link lengths so that the sway bar blades are roughly parallel to the ground at ride height. But it's way more important set your length so that you still have a kink between the blade and the link at full droop to prevent your bar from inverting. Even if that means your blades are angled up at ride height.
Here’s a better angle.......
You’d probably be able to achieve the same effect with regular bushing links if you cut off that mounting tab on the axle and run the lower link mount in single-shear. Don’t really see why they decided to run double shear from the factory. Getting rid of the tab would allow the link to flex and pivot more since it’s no longer sandwiched between two brackets.Here’s a better angle.......
They allow 60 degrees of misalignment. Even though the bar is disconnected, it doesn’t move side to side so as the axle drops and you’re connected to it, the link needs to misaligned in order for you to get the full potential from being disconnected. Anyway ....just trying to help out a fellow Mountaineer, although I went to Marshall, lol, I like to give out as much information as I can. I know that I like all the details I can get when I’m looking at something, good or bad.
The only negative thing so far I’ve found is they are a little pricey, and apparently they look a little gimmicky...( no offense Zach )lol.
FWIW I got mine from Marcus @River City Offroad on here, he’s great to work with and gives a discount to forum members.....,
Maybe...... don’t know, I know it freaks a lot of people out cutting stuff of their jeeps..... I’ve had customers tell me they won’t run jks quick disconnects because the instructions have you cut off the tabs.
I die a little inside when I see a non-rubicon with a nice bumper but they left those huge frame horns hanging down. Come on people, it's just useless metal. But that's a different issue, the passenger side sway bar tab might not be useless. The bracket is a lot thinner than the driver's side so maybe that's why they double sheared it. And yea, not 100% sure that's even the issue. But I don't remember ever having this issue with JKs and they were single shear on both sides.
It's not really a gimmick at all. They allow you to get full flex in the Rubicon without disconnecting the links. Like everything Rock Krawler they are built like a tank.
