rear sway bar link question

[fuelfox4949]

i have a 2 dr rubicon with rock krawler 2.5 inch lift
so i got back from moab and when i was there with my tool box and cooler in the back of the jeep i was bottoming out fairly easy, i found i only had 3 inches between jounce and bumpstops.
so i just installed a 3.5 inch triple rate spring for the rear of my jeep and left the front 2.5 in simply because i like to have some rake so when i put my gear in it will level out.
1. while looking at the rear swaybars they are 11 inch eye to eye and they are close to the axle tube however i have the pinion set as far forward as i can to put space in between the link and axle tube, the rk instructions say you should have a adjustable link set to 12 or 13 inches. if i get a longer link that pushes the bar up will it push it away from the axle tube or closer?
2. i have not adjusted the driveshaft yet cause i am getting conflicting answers on what degree the zperra joint should be at. i have a angle finder on the driveshaft and it was 17 degrees then the angle finder on the rear pinion is 7 degrees. wondering if that is acceptable? if i push the pinion up to get to 15 degrees i.e 2 degrees below that would push the swaybar link into the axle tube.
3. i have the arms adjusted to what rk suggested however i had to move the upper in closer to get the springs to stop bowing so much.
i know this post is a bit all over and i am just trying to get some ideas where to start tackling the adjustments, i will be posting pictures right after i post this thread.
my idea is get longer sway links to push the sway bar up and possibly that will get it away from the axle tube however i seen there is scratches on my frame rail from the bolt on the link hitting the frame rail so i would think longer links will make it hit more often.

Sponsored

 

[fuelfox4949]

 

[Roky]

You need to put your sway links on the outside of the sway bar and the outside of the axle bracket, with the bolt going the other way…….

This will minimize the scraping on the frame, though it may still touch it at full stuff. Driveshaft doesn’t look to bad for a 2 door. Do you have side pic of wheel so I can see how it looks in the wheel well ?

My links are 11” but you can’t go by that because I welded on all new axle brackets for the long arm kit. Now my shock bracket sits 3” higher than the stock location. You can lengthen them it will give a little more space between the axle and link. I can’t tell if sway bar is angled down or not, you want it angled up or at least level……

 

[fuelfox4949]

Rear sway bar is tilted down, not level.
If i move it outbound won't the nut hit the tire at strange off road angles?

I would cut the bolt flush with the nut to help.

 

[Roky]

Rear sway bar is tilted down, not level.
If i move it outbound won't the nut hit the tire at strange off road angles?

I would cut the bolt flush with the nut to help.

No you shouldn’t get close to the tire. Yeah, you could cut it if you had to. Depends on your back space, how close it will be, but I don’t think it will ever hit. Here’s mine with 4.5” backspace, you can see I still hit the frame but it’s not bad…….

Here’s pic of the stuffed wheel…..

 

[fuelfox4949]

I can move it to the outside but it looks like I'll need to get the rk adjustable rear sway bar links to raise the bar 3 inches to level.

 

[Roky]

I can move it to the outside but it looks like I'll need to get the rk adjustable rear sway bar links to raise the bar 3 inches to level.

Just by moving it outside, you’ll gain some space between the link and the axle because now it’s over the bracket, outside it will be over the axle tube. As long as when you droop the rear axle your sway bar doesn’t invert, then you can live with slightly down angle……

 

[fuelfox4949]

I hate to admit this but i shall... can you define
Inverting the swaybar?
I'm either very tired or can't picture it in my head.

 

[Roky]

I hate to admit this but i shall... can you define
Inverting the swaybar?
I'm either very tired or can't picture it in my head.

When the sway bar gets to straight in line with the link, it’s possible it could fold up the other way, which makes for a very long day…….here’s pic of my front one before I lengthened my links………

 

[fuelfox4949]

O my, ok so it flops backwards. Or in any which direction.
Yeah i can see how that could be alot of fun out on the trails.
I'll switch over the links to the outside and see where my bar ends up.
Its not a big deal if i have to order the rk adjustable links.

 

[fuelfox4949]

big thanks to Roky for his advice,
after i got the taller coil in i adjusted the sway bar links to the outside and there is more room and no squeaks or clicks back there anymore.

 

[J0E]

Diezel J Krentz, a prominent builder whose sponsored by RK DM'd me "And since it is a 2 door I would get the adjustable rear rear uppers as well the drive shaft angle gets compromised with the 2 door." Glad I got the rear uppers.

Per my sig, JL 2.5 Inch Adventure System - TT+ RK rear uppers and 37x13.5 KM3 on stock wheels and 1.75" spacers
Might not need the rear uppers for 35's, but I'm sure you'll be going to 37 soon.

 

[fuelfox4949]

Diezel J Krentz, a prominent builder whose sponsored by RK DM'd me "And since it is a 2 door I would get the adjustable rear rear uppers as well the drive shaft angle gets compromised with the 2 door." Glad I got the rear uppers.

Per my sig, JL 2.5 Inch Adventure System - TT+ RK rear uppers and 37x13.5 KM3 on stock wheels and 1.75" spacers
Might not need the rear uppers for 35's, but I'm sure you'll be going to 37 soon.

Yup i ordered those adjustable links, they just arrived today, I'll install those in the morning and plan to test them on the trails on Sunday.

Sponsored