Stop/Start Not Ready-Battery Charging

[AndySpill]

The two are the same thing, said in different ways.

When the ESS/Aux battery flattens, the system electronics downstream of N1 no longer have power.

If the main battery has power, and bear in mind that N1 and N2 are connected at all times but an instant and crank and ESS events, then N1 has power, as do thus all things downstream of N1 as well, even if your ESS/Aux battery, as you describe, flattens.

(Please now talk to me about how you meant all along to say that this failing ESS/Aux battery then, maybe, cannabolizes the main battery, and that's what you really meant.)

(Of course if you pull Fuse 42 and/or fused jumper N1 to N2 the two points are never disconnected.)

Please stop.

Sponsored

 

[THAW]

If the main battery has power, and bear in mind that N1 and N2 are connected at all times but an instant and crank and ESS events, then N1 has power, as do thus all things downstream of N1 as well, even if your ESS/Aux battery, as you describe, flattens.

Now you're selectively editing my posts?

N1 does not have power from the main battery when the N3 fuse is blown. That's what my statements indicate, and that's the point of YOUR confusion. I'm running out of ways to say it.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

I had the aux battery replaced, still have Start/Stop not ready battery charging message. I'm going for a 200 km trip today see if it clears. If not, back to the dealership on Thursday. Not much I can do since it's under warranty. I mentioned the CanBus connector.

Replace the main. A dead/dying aux draws it down. Just go to O’Reilly to get one, don’t bother with the wait at the dealer.

 

[AndySpill]

Now you're selectively editing my posts?

N1 does not have power from the main battery when the N3 fuse is blown. That's what my statements indicate, and that's the point of YOUR confusion. I'm running out of ways to say it.

I am not selectively editing your posts. Read this one. It says nothing of the N3 fuse which I agree with you on as it regards the affect of its disfunction and downstream implications.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...not-ready-battery-charging.33802/post-2603007

I quote:

Again, if the ESS/aux battery isn't receiving charging current from the alternator (bad relay, blown fuse) the vehicle will stop operating altogether after a short time.

When the ESS battery begins to fail, the vehicle disables ESS. There's no need to turn it off to test anything.

I'm misleading or unclear? Which blown fuse are you referring to here 42 or N3?

Must be me, I must have missed the context.

 

[THAW]

Which blown fuse are you referring to here 42 or N3?

Must be me, I must have missed the context.

Yes. It is, and you did.

Even though my statements were replies contextualized by quoted posts.
Even though stated loss of charging current makes the fuse referenced self-evident.
Even after I pointed out which fuse:

For clarity, I believe the post referred to the N3 fuse ("PCR (ESS)"), not fuse F42.

And, even after you promptly (and dismissively) acknowledged which fuse:

As to your clarity, none is needed. I wasn't criticiquing your reference to the N3 fuse,...

Are we done here?

 

[Altitude2020]

Replace the main. A dead/dying aux draws it down. Just go to O’Reilly to get one, don’t bother with the wait at the dealer.

Thanks, I'm in Canada and its 400 for a battery. I am going to see what happens. I have a 7 year warranty so I want the dealership to replace on thier dime. I agree about replacing it, however right now I am pointing one finger adding an aftermarket battery will muddy the blame.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

They wont replace it unless it wont hold a charge. If you're close to the US border, just drive across and get a new one. They'll never know, so don't claim it when you go back.

 

[Altitude2020]

They wont replace it unless it wont hold a charge. If you're close to the US border, just drive across and get a new one. They'll never know, so don't claim it when you go back.

The dealership replaced the aux, they didn't test if it would or would not hold a charge. They just wanted to clear the message on the dash.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

See if they will replace the main. Doubt they will without keeping for a week, them telling you they just charged it.

Many of us here, myself included, just went and bought the new ones on our own. Back on the road that day with no dealer hassles and a far better battery than the Mopar ones that the dealer installs.

Also, if there are no codes or lights, they wont do anything, telling you to bring it back when there is a code or a light.

 

[Altitude2020]

See if they will replace the main. Doubt they will without keeping for a week, them telling you they just charged it.

Many of us here, myself included, just went and bought the new ones on our own. Back on the road that day with no dealer hassles and a far better battery than the Mopar ones that the dealer installs.

Also, if there are no codes or lights, they wont do anything, telling you to bring it back when there is a code or a light.

I guess I'm lucky, I had no codes. Just auxilary battery charging on the dashboard. They set aside an appointment for tomorrow just in case it happened again. But it looks like it's fixed.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

If you have the ESS not ready, battery charging message, go ahead and take it back in since you already have an appointment. Maybe you’ll get lucky and they will change the main.

 

[Altitude2020]

If you have the ESS not ready, battery charging message, go ahead and take it back in since you already have an appointment. Maybe you’ll get lucky and they will change the main.

No messages since Aux was changed a few days ago.

 

[garykk]

Yes. It is, and you did.

Even though my statements were replies contextualized by quoted posts.
Even though stated loss of charging current makes the fuse referenced self-evident.
Even after I pointed out which fuse:



And, even after you promptly (and dismissively) acknowledged which fuse:



Are we done here?

I sure as hell hope so.

 

[AndySpill]

Yes. It is, and you did.

Even though my statements were replies contextualized by quoted posts.
Even though stated loss of charging current makes the fuse referenced self-evident.
Even after I pointed out which fuse:



And, even after you promptly (and dismissively) acknowledged which fuse:



Are we done here?

No Foster, we're not.

People don't even read an entire thread like I do.

Don't assume information you disseminate is a composite of all those posts. Rather include in each post all the relevant details.

 

[THAW]

No Foster, we're not.

...include in each post all the relevant details.

Andy, all (and only) the relevant information was included in my original posts. Both for someone who simply thinks a dealer should check the PCR and PCR (ESS) fuse, and for someone such as yourself who is knowledgeable about the JL electrical system and wants to think through the exact details - counterintuitive as they may be.

On the other hand, your 8 posts challenging correct and complete information merely added noise while you publicly reasoned through the fact relays can stick in the energized state, that "PCR (ESS)" is the factory name for the N3 fuse not F42, and the consequences of a blown N3 fuse.

If, as you wrote, you care about correctness, I suggest for the sake of future readers you delete your posts - even though they contain some useful, albeit repetitive, information. Then, I will happily delete my responses to them.

Sponsored