Stop Dry Starting your 3.6 with Baxter Performance!

[Northridge4x4]

Did you know that there is no anti-drain back valve in the upper part of your Pentastar 3.6 engine? After 35 minutes the oil has drained back down into the oil pan and when you start it back up, it take approx 3.5 seconds to get the oil back up to where it needs to go to properly lubricate everything.

Baxter Performance has the answer and that is their Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter with anti-drain back valve. Not only does this kit make it easier to change your oil, it also helps keep the oil up in the top part of the engine.... so no more dry starts and that will help maximize your 3.6's longevity.



Questions? Post them up here and we'll answer them.

Want one for your 3.6?
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...mance-cartridge-to-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter

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[B&ZRubi]

Looks like this does reduce dry start issues. But now I am stuck always doing my own oil changes. My guess is no quick lube or dealer will touch this or if they do my guess is they will spin off that filter and oil down the top of the engine because they will not apply air pressure to flush the oil into the pan. Nice device but there is a trade off.

 

[Northridge4x4]

Looks like this does reduce dry start issues. But now I am stuck always doing my own oil changes. My guess is no quick lube or dealer will touch this or if they do my guess is they will spin off that filter and oil down the top of the engine because they will not apply air pressure to flush the oil into the pan. Nice device but there is a trade off.

Great point.

The kit does come with a little decal you install under the hood. It has a QR code on it, scan it and it takes you to the oil filter change instructions.

It's not a perfect solution, but better than nothing.

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

I wonder if my ARB twin has enough capacity with the tiny internal tank full to purge the valve on the filter adapter. I obviously can't run the motor to have the compressor run because it would be in the process of doing an oil change, right? Maybe I'm thinking about that wrong, and it is in fact ok to have the engine running? IDK.

 

[B&ZRubi]

Great point.

The kit does come with a little decal you install under the hood. It has a QR code on it, scan it and it takes you to the oil filter change instructions.

It's not a perfect solution, but better than nothing.

I agree with you 100%. What would happen if they hit it with shop air pressure like over 100psi? Would it do any damage to the oil system?

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

I agree with you 100%. What would happen if they hit it with shop air pressure like over 100psi? Would it do any damage to the oil system?

That's what I'm wondering, as most of us are probably going to try to hit it with our onboard compressors.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Will you be selling the oil cooler version?

 

[SCJeeps]

This is a solution looking for a problem that doesn’t exist. I wouldn’t waste my money unless you just like using spin on filters vs the cartridge.
Let’s take the valve train as an example. Residual oil left on cam, followers, etc is always going to drain off, this does not help or change with that. Only the oil properties that help with retention do anything.
Do you normally hear hydraulic lifters or chain flap on the 3.6, No. This means that oil is already in the galleys and supplied to these critical parts immediately at startup. You can create this problem on a tradition engine by using a poor quality filter with bad drain back valve, it’s easy you will hear noise in the valve train as it pumps up, again this is not a problem with the 3.6.
The engine system was designed specifically and validated beyond what most people can imagine. This was not something that was accidentally left off the engineering checklist. It is estimated that over 10 million pentastar engines have been produced. If there was a truly a problem it would be more widespread. With any high volume produced mechanical component there will be failures.

 

[Nvdardx28]

Watching the video and seeing the install really makes me wonder how well the oil filter housing will hold up to the torqueing and twisting. We all have seen these crack over time.

 

[IanNubbit]

This is a solution looking for a problem that doesn’t exist. I wouldn’t waste my money unless you just like using spin on filters vs the cartridge.
Let’s take the valve train as an example. Residual oil left on cam, followers, etc is always going to drain off, this does not help or change with that. Only the oil properties that help with retention do anything.
Do you normally hear hydraulic lifters or chain flap on the 3.6, No. This means that oil is already in the galleys and supplied to these critical parts immediately at startup. You can create this problem on a tradition engine by using a poor quality filter with bad drain back valve, it’s easy you will hear noise in the valve train as it pumps up, again this is not a problem with the 3.6.
The engine system was designed specifically and validated beyond what most people can imagine. This was not something that was accidentally left off the engineering checklist. It is estimated that over 10 million pentastar engines have been produced. If there was a truly a problem it would be more widespread. With any high volume produced mechanical component there will be failures.

This is where I'm at. It interests me, but all its doing is storing oil in the filter, nothing else, the inlet side of the filter is direct from the oil pump out, and this does nothing for the outlet of the filter. all your doing is changing the time (by maybe a thousandth of second) that the pump primes to the filter. 3.6s use the high pressure gear on the oil pump engaged by default and on start up. roughly 90psi is getting violently thrown in a straight line directly to the filter. If anyone has curiosity or doubts, open you hood all the way to the windshield, completely remove the oil filter and cap, then make sure to be recording as you start it and watch how high the oil goes.

 

[_olllllllo_]

I purchased the bypass version to support installing an external oil cooler. I will have a spin on filter in a remote location. There is a trick to pushing oil through the system after draining the oil. Hold the throttle to the floor (in neutral - manual or automatic) and the engine will turn over and pump oil, but will not start.

 

[Old Jeeper]

And this is why you run Mobil 1 oil.

I had a friend who worked at Penzoil in their engine oil testing lab. This is the lab where you had a bunch of engines and you'd open the drain plug and see how long the engine could run before the torque started to rise and you were in danger is seizing up.

They would also run long-term testing of their oil and competitor oil.

All of the Penzoil technicians put Mobil 1 in their personal cars.
Hmmm

My BiL worked at Mobil R&D and he told me there are 2 Top Tier oils, Mobil 1 and Shell T 6. He said just below those 2 are Quaker State, Pennzoil and Castroil.

So I asked him about the Boutique oils. He said all them are Marketing oils, and they have refineries mfg the oil to their specs so I all marketing and they are not really in the oil business they are in the marketing business. THey may add X % more 'specific juice' to their formulation to claim an edge over others. Some of these are for specfic use like drag racers need extreme rpm oil and heat resistance.

FYI, OIL does not go bad, after all it millions of years old and unless your engine overheats 250+ the oil is still good. What does happen to oils is the additional chemicals that are added get consumed as time and miles go by. This is where the Specs come in for oil for gas engines and diesels*. The auto mfg specifies grades of oil, this is based upon how that engine is built and the expected mileage between oil changes.

Take away: The old 3000 miles between oil changes that I did are long long gone and to so today is money being thrown away. We did it back then because we did not have the advanced chemicals and aditives in the oils we have today.

Another reason for changing oil a 3000 mi was to insure that your oil was not low. Cars prior to the later 60's were prone to burn a quart of oil up to a quart fo oil per 1000 mi of driving. A lot of folks just did not check or change oil regulary.

* want the best, Ford Spec Shell T 6 Diesel grade, gonna hurt you wallet but its the best and its what I run.

 

[Tech Tim]

I wonder if my ARB twin has enough capacity with the tiny internal tank full to purge the valve on the filter adapter. I obviously can't run the motor to have the compressor run because it would be in the process of doing an oil change, right? Maybe I'm thinking about that wrong, and it is in fact ok to have the engine running? IDK.

Yes, we used an ARB twin to blow out the oil system in our testing and it worked fine with the engine off.

And this is why you run Mobil 1 oil.

I had a friend who worked at Penzoil in their engine oil testing lab. This is the lab where you had a bunch of engines and you'd open the drain plug and see how long the engine could run before the torque started to rise and you were in danger is seizing up.

They would also run long term testing of their oil and competitor oil.

All of the Penzoil technicians put Mobil 1 in their personal cars.
Hmmm

YES, running a high quality oil is always a great idea.

As far as it being the answer to dry start, I'm going to disagree, it's a lubrication vs hydraulic pressure issue.

Both the cam phasers and the timing chain tensioners work with oil pressure. To get that oil pressure, you first need to fill it with volume. The baxter performance adapter holds that oil up in the filter bowl assembly, helping to get that oil volume into the phasers and tensioner faster.

I agree with you 100%. What would happen if they hit it with shop air pressure like over 100psi? Would it do any damage to the oil system?

No, we tested up to 150 psi and no issues. But you do want to make sure you have the oil filler cap off.

Plus, there is a high pressure bypass on the oil pump itself. If you could somehow over pressurize the system, it would just bypasses at the oil pump.

Will you be selling the oil cooler version?

Yes, we have them in stock:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...rmance-cartridge-to-remote-oil-filter-adapter

 

[John VonJeep]

I read an analysis on Bob is the Oil Guy several years ago that convinced me to go with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I’ve used it ever since. I can’t find that original analysis, but this video demonstrates some of the advantages (vs other Pennzoil oils).

 

[oldcjguy]

* want the best, Ford Spec Shell T 6 Diesel grade, gonna hurt you wallet but its the best and its what I run.

Shell Rotella oil is VERY, VERY good synthetic oil. Diesel oils contain a lot of zppd which is great for lubrication but will damage your catalytic converters over time. Even Shell recommends against using T6 in gas engines with cats. Use versions designed for gas engines with cats.

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