Steering Pulls

[cnyjl]

Have a 2018 Rubicon JLU with a 2 1/2 Rock Krawler lift and control arms and Cooper ST Maxx 315/70R17 on Fuel wheels at 30 psi. Don't know when it started, may have been there since the lift, but it pulls in the direction of the slope of the road. Seems worse when it's hot out or maybe I just read that on the steering box tsb and made the issue fit the tsb. Just had the steering box done and although the steering is tight, it still pulls in the direction of the roadway slope. If the road is flat or I drive down the crown, I can let go of the wheel and it tracks very straight. I put my wife's 33 tires on it when I took it in for the steering box tsb to try to avoid them refusing it for oversized tires. Anyway with my wife's tires, pull was barely there beforehand and gone after I got it back. Unfortunately with my 35's back on it, it pulls as it always did. I tried tire rack's pulling tire diagnosis but the condition didn't move, improve or get worse no matter where the tires were rotated to. I also put my 35's on my wife's sport with my rubicon takeoff suspension and it tracked perfectly straight. When they called to tell me the box was being changed they suggested a 4 wheel alignment and I told them to go ahead. When I picked it up, they told me they only did the front due to "the heavy duty lift components".

I've attached the alignment sheet. Just looking for some guidance on what I may be able to do myself to fix the issue, other than take it to a dedicated offroad alignment shop, of which there are none near me. Is it possible the cross camber is enough to cause it to pull? Is there a way to adjust the camber? Should I adjust the caster to around 6 as most people on here suggest? Any other ideas? Thanks for any help.

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[Roky]

Have a 2018 Rubicon JLU with a 2 1/2 Rock Krawler lift and control arms and Cooper ST Maxx 315/70R17 on Fuel wheels at 30 psi. Don't know when it started, may have been there since the lift, but it pulls in the direction of the slope of the road. Seems worse when it's hot out or maybe I just read that on the steering box tsb and made the issue fit the tsb. Just had the steering box done and although the steering is tight, it still pulls in the direction of the roadway slope. If the road is flat or I drive down the crown, I can let go of the wheel and it tracks very straight. I put my wife's 33 tires on it when I took it in for the steering box tsb to try to avoid them refusing it for oversized tires. Anyway with my wife's tires, pull was barely there beforehand and gone after I got it back. Unfortunately with my 35's back on it, it pulls as it always did. I tried tire rack's pulling tire diagnosis but the condition didn't move, improve or get worse no matter where the tires were rotated to. I also put my 35's on my wife's sport with my rubicon takeoff suspension and it tracked perfectly straight. When they called to tell me the box was being changed they suggested a 4 wheel alignment and I told them to go ahead. When I picked it up, they told me they only did the front due to "the heavy duty lift components".

I've attached the alignment sheet. Just looking for some guidance on what I may be able to do myself to fix the issue, other than take it to a dedicated offroad alignment shop, of which there are none near me. Is it possible the cross camber is enough to cause it to pull? Is there a way to adjust the camber? Should I adjust the caster to around 6 as most people on here suggest? Any other ideas? Thanks for any help.

No camber adjustment, toe looks good. Your caster is low, I’d get it to at least 6. I run a little more on the passenger side to help with road crown. I’m at 6.2 and 6.4 I think, it’s been a while since I did it, lol.

 

[cnyjl]

No camber adjustment, toe looks good. Your caster is low, I’d get it to at least 6. I run a little more on the passenger side to help with road crown. I’m at 6.2 and 6.4 I think, it’s been a while since I did it, lol.

Okay thanks.

 

[californiajeeping]

Have a 2018 Rubicon JLU with a 2 1/2 Rock Krawler lift and control arms and Cooper ST Maxx 315/70R17 on Fuel wheels at 30 psi. Don't know when it started, may have been there since the lift, but it pulls in the direction of the slope of the road. Seems worse when it's hot out or maybe I just read that on the steering box tsb and made the issue fit the tsb. Just had the steering box done and although the steering is tight, it still pulls in the direction of the roadway slope. If the road is flat or I drive down the crown, I can let go of the wheel and it tracks very straight. I put my wife's 33 tires on it when I took it in for the steering box tsb to try to avoid them refusing it for oversized tires. Anyway with my wife's tires, pull was barely there beforehand and gone after I got it back. Unfortunately with my 35's back on it, it pulls as it always did. I tried tire rack's pulling tire diagnosis but the condition didn't move, improve or get worse no matter where the tires were rotated to. I also put my 35's on my wife's sport with my rubicon takeoff suspension and it tracked perfectly straight. When they called to tell me the box was being changed they suggested a 4 wheel alignment and I told them to go ahead. When I picked it up, they told me they only did the front due to "the heavy duty lift components".

I've attached the alignment sheet. Just looking for some guidance on what I may be able to do myself to fix the issue, other than take it to a dedicated offroad alignment shop, of which there are none near me. Is it possible the cross camber is enough to cause it to pull? Is there a way to adjust the camber? Should I adjust the caster to around 6 as most people on here suggest? Any other ideas? Thanks for any help.

Looks like you can adjust camber:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ring-issues-updated.64931/page-8#post-1384352

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ring-issues-updated.64931/page-8#post-1384360

But I bet increasing the caster would make the most difference in your case.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

There should be a .25 camber sleeve in the knuckle, you could get a .50 and it would get you back in spec. The sleeves are $28.00.

 

[californiajeeping]

There should be a .25 camber sleeve in the knuckle, you could get a .50 and it would get you back in spec. The sleeves are $28.00.

What type of effort would it take swap out the camber sleeve? I tried to find a video on YouTube (even for a JK) to see what type of project it would be. My camber is -0.2 Left and -0.5 Right, so I'd imagine I'd take out the left camber sleeve and put in a 0.50 in attempt to get them closer to the same numbers.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

What type of effort would it take swap out the camber sleeve? I tried to find a video on YouTube (even for a JK) to see what type of project it would be. My camber is -0.2 Left and -0.5 Right, so I'd imagine I'd take out the left camber sleeve and put in a 0.50.

I haven’t done it yet because I am waiting to see what my camber is with the new Reid knuckles. I have been told you can replace them without taking the entire assembly apart. Basically pull the ball joint nuts off, knock the sleeve out, put the new one in and re torque everything. Looking at it, I think that’s possible but have not done it so I can’t say 100%.

 

[californiajeeping]

I haven’t done it yet because I am waiting to see what my camber is with the new Reid knuckles. I have been told you can replace them without taking the entire assembly apart. Basically pull the ball joint nuts off, knock the sleeve out, put the new one in and re torque everything. Looking at it, I think that’s possible but have not done it so I can’t say 100%.

My goal is to fine tune camber to be equal on both sides. Camber is currently at -0.2 Left and -0.5 Right, so I'd imagine I'd take out the left camber sleeve and put in a 0.50 so that they are -0.5 Right and -0.5 Left, correct? Also the dealer wouldn't notice this change out, right?

 

[Jeep&dogs]

My goal is to fine tune camber to be equal on both sides. Camber is currently at -0.2 Left and -0.5 Right, so I'd imagine I'd take out the left camber sleeve and put in a 0.50 so that they are -0.5 Right and -0.5 Left, correct? Also the dealer wouldn't notice this change out, right?

You should be pretty close to those numbers. You can see from the bottom what is stamped in the one that is in the Jeep now. It should be stamped 0/0 C .25. If it’s not you would want to pick the next size up. They come in .25.

And the dealer should not notice it but even if they did they shouldn’t care. It’s an alignment bushing, as long as it didn’t take it out of spec you didn’t do anything that would cause any issue.

 

[californiajeeping]

You should be pretty close to those numbers. You can see from the bottom what is stamped in the one that is in the Jeep now. It should be stamped 0/0 C .25. If it’s not you would want to pick the next size up. They come in .25.

And the dealer should not notice it but even if they did they shouldn’t care. It’s an alignment bushing, as long as it didn’t take it out of spec you didn’t do anything that would cause any issue.

Excellent information. Thanks!

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