Jeep Pulls To The Right

[Jeep&dogs]

Wow, hadn't thought about that. I was considering a slight adjustment, test drive, repeat as necessary. I just called the shop that did the alignment though and asked "Is this something they would have adjusted if they'd realized there was an adjustable track bar?" He said they should have so I'll let them use their laser wizardry Thursday.

An alignment rack won’t pick up if the axels are shifted to one side or the other or not.

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[Jeep&dogs]

The alignment rack thinks the axle is centered and squared, it will measure rear toe which it uses to calculate rear thrust. It’s really not accurate enough to use to center the axle. Best bet is to make sure the axle is centered side to side then get it aligned. If the rear thrust is still off the axle isn’t squared to the centerline of the Jeep. The only way to correct that then is to either lengthen the upper and lower arms in one side or shorten both arms on one side. If it’s really off sometimes you will have to adjust both sides. You ultimately want to have the tire centered in the wheel opening, that’s the easiest way to determine what direction you need to go on either side. You could honestly do all of this with a tape measure if you wanted to. When I set up a suspension I typically throw it on an alignment rack to verify where I am at. After that I honestly never put it back on a rack. Everything gets done with a tape, digital angle finder, and a laser level to mark centerline.

 

[BDinTX]

The alignment rack thinks the axle is centered and squared, it will measure rear toe which it uses to calculate rear thrust. It’s really not accurate enough to use to center the axle. Best bet is to make sure the axle is centered side to side then get it aligned. If the rear thrust is still off the axle isn’t squared to the centerline of the Jeep. The only way to correct that then is to either lengthen the upper and lower arms in one side or shorten both arms on one side. If it’s really off sometimes you will have to adjust both sides. You ultimately want to have the tire centered in the wheel opening, that’s the easiest way to determine what direction you need to go on either side. You could honestly do all of this with a tape measure if you wanted to. When I set up a suspension I typically throw it on an alignment rack to verify where I am at. After that I honestly never put it back on a rack. Everything gets done with a tape, digital angle finder, and a laser level to mark centerline.

gotcha... well back to doing it myself... thanks for that info

 

[Roky]

Just remember to be mindful of your pinion angle when your monkeying with getting your rear axle centered and squared. I’ve had a few guys ask me why their rear springs are bowed after they installed their lift. They got caught up in what they were doing and didn’t pay any attention to the pinion angle. Just a heads up......?

 

[Jeep&dogs]

Just remember to be mindful of your pinion angle when your monkeying with getting your rear axle centered and squared. I’ve had a few guys ask me why their rear springs are bowed after they installed their lift. They got caught up in what they were doing and didn’t pay any attention to the pinion angle. Just a heads up......?

In theory if you your pinion is correct to start and you adjust the upper and lower arm he same amount your pinion will stay the same. You do need to be sure you are not no the entire axel to far backwards or forwards because that could also cause issues with spring alignment. That’s honestly what drives me nuts when places tell people they can get by with just lowers, can you yes, but you are sacrificing something somewhere no matter how you look at it.

 

[BDinTX]

The only adjustments I are front and rear trackbars. The AEV lift has the geo-correction brackets for the front control arms and one for the rear axle trackbar (not the front though). All control arms are still stock. So I think pinion angle is what it is.

 

[somedude922]

The only adjustments I are front and rear trackbars. The AEV lift has the geo-correction brackets for the front control arms and one for the rear axle trackbar (not the front though). All control arms are still stock. So I think pinion angle is what it is.

I need to come by your place and we can work on this together. Lol. Seems we have some of the same issues with the AEV lift!

 

[Roky]

The only adjustments I are front and rear trackbars. The AEV lift has the geo-correction brackets for the front control arms and one for the rear axle trackbar (not the front though). All control arms are still stock. So I think pinion angle is what it is.

Yeah, I’m talking about when guys doing lifts with all eight control arms. Sometimes if it’s their first time or get in a hurry it’s easy to forget when your focusing on getting the wheel centered in the wheel well as well as squared up side to side , I wasn’t singling anybody out. Just a general heads up.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

Yeah, I’m talking about when guys doing lifts with all eight control arms. Sometimes if it’s their first time or get in a hurry it’s easy to forget when your focusing on getting the wheel centered in the wheel well as well as squared up side to side , I wasn’t singling anybody out. Just a general heads up.

Easiest I have been able to explain it to anyone is set the wheel base and square the axel with the lowers, don’t even worry about the actual length of each arm, just measure the axel and square it. Then center the axel with the track bar, check to see if the axel is still squared, if not adjust it again. Then set your front caster with just the drivers upper arm, set the passenger upper so the bolt slides in easy. Move to the back adjust pinion and set the arms so the bolts all go in easy. The length of the arms is the length of the arms. These frames on these things are so far off from the factory it’s not even funny.

 

[Rangemaster]

My jeep always drove straight after my evo 3.5 lift, my king steering stablizer came in and ever since the install its always pulled right at higher speeds. My jeep only has 1400 miles on it, so I do not think its anything else causing the issue.

 

[Roky]

Easiest I have been able to explain it to anyone is set the wheel base and square the axel with the lowers, don’t even worry about the actual length of each arm, just measure the axel and square it. Then center the axel with the track bar, check to see if the axel is still squared, if not adjust it again. Then set your front caster with just the drivers upper arm, set the passenger upper so the bolt slides in easy. Move to the back adjust pinion and set the arms so the bolts all go in easy. The length of the arms is the length of the arms. These frames on these things are so far off from the factory it’s not even funny.

Like fingerprints, no two a like .......?

 

[gato]

Best way to get it as close as possible is to put the rear on jack stands and pull both rear tires. Use a short level and put it against the rotor and measure from the level to the frame.

Exactly the method I used to set up my rear adjustable track bar length.

Except that since I am OCD, I first measured the front-to-rear rake angle with my most typical load, and after pulling the rear tires (with jacks under the axle) I made sure jeep sat at the exact same angle, prior to measuring rotor-to-frame distances.

And of course since my track bar (Icon) is adjustable on-the vehicle, making OCD-like precise adjustments was a breeze.

My Jeep has never been to an alignment shop and all I ever used was a $20 amazon digital angle gauge and a $5 measuring tape Every angle and tracking is exactly as my OCD demanded

 

[gato]

My jeep always drove straight after my evo 3.5 lift, my king steering stablizer came in and ever since the install its always pulled right at higher speeds. My jeep only has 1400 miles on it, so I do not think its anything else causing the issue.

Pull that steering stabilizer. Try to compress it by hand and hold it in a partially compressed position? Feel all that force you have to put into it?

That same exact force is pushing your steering to the right the entire time.

There is no way around it. That is why Jeep, Steer Smarts, Teraflex, Icon, etc sell exclusively neutral force steering stabilizers for the JL. Fox offers both types with their through-shaft being neutral. Why do you think that is?

I know a lot of people will come here and say they have Fox or King pressurized (non-neutral) stabilizers and claim there is no pull. It is impossible for that to be the case, unless their stabilizer is low on pressure. The pressure/pull is always there. It is just a matter of how much pull and how sensitive you are to it.

Friends should not let friends put non-neutral stabilizers on their JLs. Sell that King to a greater fool and move on to a neutral stabilizer.

 

[SmoothJeepOperator]

This is informative. I spent so much time fighting death wobble. Now that it's gone I'm having to make so many adjustments when I'm driving that's it's uncomfortable ( pulls to the left). I was wondering if it could be because my rear arms are factory while my fronts are adjustable mc arms. Probably should make sure my rear axle is centered too I guess. But yea wondering how big a difference adjustable arms in the rear can make on my pull to the left and all the adjustments I have to make while steering.

 

[Roky]

This is informative. I spent so much time fighting death wobble. Now that it's gone I'm having to make so many adjustments when I'm driving that's it's uncomfortable ( pulls to the left). I was wondering if it could be because my rear arms are factory while my fronts are adjustable mc arms. Probably should make sure my rear axle is centered too I guess. But yea wondering how big a difference adjustable arms in the rear can make on my pull to the left and all the adjustments I have to make while steering.

How high lift you on, what’s your caster , what’s your tire pressure, which arms do you have, uppers only, lowers only or both? Do you have adjustable track bars or relo brackets? Need more information to help, but I’m pretty sure has nothing to do with rear arms.

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