At the end of my rope of steering issues.***FIXED!****

[Jeepsk8]

I had my dealership install the steersmart yeti frame side track bar reinforcement bracket when they replace my steering box. They did it for no charge. And it seems to stop my death wobble issue. Order it from Northridge 170$ it could help you

I installed the Rusty's bracket and in my case it didn't change anything with my shimmy / wobble issue. I lifted it, all 8 arms, new track bar and I was getting a nibble in the steering from day one on stock tires. Added 37's and it's a little amplified. Since it started right away, I'm beginning to wonder if the UCA bushings in the axle might not be somewhat responsible. Those are the only bushings not replaced on the lift.

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[Jeep&dogs]

I installed the Rusty's bracket and in my case it didn't change anything with my shimmy / wobble issue. I lifted it, all 8 arms, new track bar and I was getting a nibble in the steering from day one on stock tires. Added 37's and it's a little amplified. Since it started right away, I'm beginning to wonder if the UCA bushings in the axle might not be somewhat responsible. Those are the only bushings not replaced on the lift.

I asked that same question a few posts ago, I have all the Clayton arms and the only stock bushings left are in the axle. I know they are not worn but I know that they are not the same materials. However I ran the stick ones in Tj’s for years and they never caused this issue.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

So I actually never had this thing on an official alignment rack so today I figured what the hell. Total toe I was actually trying the steer smart recommendation of slightly out. I have since changed it back to zero. Caster is slightly less than I was going for, I was looking to be around 7 and I am at 6.6. Well within where I think these things drive well.
The rear toe is a little off so I am going to lengthen the Rt side arms 1 turn and that should get the thrust angle to zero.

The lt side camber is a little concerning to me considering the ball joints are new and everything felt tight. The jeep has not been wheeled hard enough to have bent a inner C. I have the Reid racing knuckles on order and they are supposed to ship on the 10th so I will see where the camber is after installing them.
Over all not too bad for doing it with nothing more than a tape measure and some aluminum square tube.

BUT that still does not solve my problem! I highly doubt the camber is causing my wobble.

 

[JimLee]

So I actually never had this thing on an official alignment rack so today I figured what the hell. Total toe I was actually trying the steer smart recommendation of slightly out. I have since changed it back to zero. Caster is slightly less than I was going for, I was looking to be around 7 and I am at 6.6. Well within where I think these things drive well.
The rear toe is a little off so I am going to lengthen the Rt side arms 1 turn and that should get the thrust angle to zero.

The lt side camber is a little concerning to me considering the ball joints are new and everything felt tight. The jeep has not been wheeled hard enough to have bent a inner C. I have the Reid racing knuckles on order and they are supposed to ship on the 10th so I will see where the camber is after installing them.
Over all not too bad for doing it with nothing more than a tape measure and some aluminum square tube.

BUT that still does not solve my problem! I highly doubt the camber is causing my wobble.

You know, for not having any kind of camber adjustments, i'm surprised by the number of the printouts I've seen showing it in the red on JL's.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

You know, for not having any kind of camber adjustments, i'm surprised by the number of the printouts I've seen showing it in the red on JL's.

So actually I think you can adjust them....the upper sleeve was stamped +0, I THINK a there are different offsets you can get to replace that sleeve with and it will re position the upper joint according. I am doing some investigation into that now.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

So I was correct.........

 

[word302]

Try reducing the caster to 4 - 5 degrees. At 7 degree you’re really putting strain on the system and the slightest tolerance will set up a harmonic. Currie used to have a tech paper on caster for oversized tires that covered this in detail.

That’s terrible advice on a JL.

 

[word302]

All - looking for guidance.. I have a stock JLU Sahara with 33” Rubicon tires and wheels. I am on my 3rd steering gear (stock, new aluminum and steel) and still don’t feel my steering is where I want it to be. Tracks decent but still some pull to right and has a dead spot more than I like. I feel the steering is a bit light for my taste. My caster is 5.3 and tire pressure 34-36 psi. I did notice my new steel box has two of the old bolts on it versus all four black ones.

I am thinking about a modification that can help with steering concerns but don’t want to go hydraulic or replace everything. What would you consider the top priority to replace from my list below:

1) steering stabilizer - fox or falcon through shaft - I know a SS doesn’t necessarily change steering significantly but I am wondering if it could reduce the right hand pull and add a bit more resistance to the steering

2) new trackbar - yeti or teraflex

3) Mopar LCAs - guessing this would out my caster at 6.8 which I wonder is too high without a lift

I anticipate a 1.5-2.5 lift in the future but probably 6 months out

I’d start by lowering your tire pressure to around 30 and see how it drives. 36 is definitely too high.

 

[richk225]

That’s terrible advice on a JL.

I agree on the bad advice, if you look at what major suspension manufacturers are recommending it is close to 7 degrees, EVO manufacturing is one of them and they know what they are doing when it comes to suspension

 

[Jeep&dogs]

Well after getting the alignment done yesterday and the camber was off I got the jeep up in the air today and applied pressure on the wheel at 6-12. There is noticeable movement in both lower ball joints. I re torqued them both and there was no noticeable change. There are maybe 500 miles on these. I’m having a real hard time telling if it’s the joint or possibly it’s moving in the knuckle itself.

Anyone know of any issues with these? I know they have not been out long so there is limited exposure to them.

Also any idea how to go about getting them covered under warranty? I bought them through north ridge.

 

[Iggy]

BUT that still does not solve my problem! I highly doubt the camber is causing my wobble.

I noticed all the measurement on the left side are about double those on the right, except the front caster. The front caster looks just right.

The readings on the rear are odd. Camber and toe on a solid axle aren't adjustable and should be the same side to side. Did Jeep specify those from Spicer? Dunno, but if so, it tells us anything but a stock suspension is asking for trouble. With thousands of lifted JLs out there, I sort of doubt that's the case. Perhaps you have a bent axle?

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I noticed all the measurement on the left side are about double those on the right, except the front caster. The front caster looks just right.

The readings on the rear are odd. Camber and toe on a solid axle aren't adjustable and should be the same side to side. Did Jeep specify those from Spicer? Dunno, but if so, it tells us anything but a stock suspension is asking for trouble. With thousands of lifted JLs out there, I sort of doubt that's the case. Perhaps you have a bent axle?

See above, pretty sure the new ball joints are causing the camber issue. The rear toe is out on the left and in on the right, with adjustable control arms that shows the rt side is a little short n the arms, kicking the axel back on the right will toe out the right side and toe in the left. The total tow will be minimal and there is typically some built into the axel from the factory

 

[Iggy]

See above, pretty sure the new ball joints are causing the camber issue. The rear toe is out on the left and in on the right, with adjustable control arms that shows the rt side is a little short n the arms, kicking the axel back on the right will toe out the right side and toe in the left. The total tow will be minimal and there is typically some built into the axel from the factory

Understood. Thanks for pointing out the obvious! I should have seen my mistake before pressing [Enter]!

The rear axle will have an equal amount of toe out on one side when the other side has an equal amount of toe in. A slight amount of rear toe in is a safe way to travel so I can see the OEM designing that into a solid rear axle.

 

[Redbaron73]

I added my lift (3.5inch), yeti flip drag link, 37in tires all at the same time, immediately following my steering tsb. Took to have alignment done and wheel centered.

My tires (bfg at) where running 30 psi with ambient Temps in 30s. Ran it for 60 miles up and down highway for test drive and it felt great. Drove straight, handled like a dream.

Upon exiting freeway to head home, I hit a small pothole and got major DW at 40mph.


Went thru a complete torque check, loosed all uppet/lower control arms, drag links, drove in yard and retorqued.

Test drive good, but pothole same issue.

Removed stock steering stabilizer and noticed even worse dw at 30mph.

Took the jeep to discount tire to have them rebalance on the road force machine. Front left failed. We put spare in its place, and death wobble was gone. Reinstalled steering stabilizer and it has been perfect.

The road force tire machine is the best on the market. Find a local tire company and have them check your front tires without removing weights.

If it requires 9 on all locations, then you have a bad tire.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I added my lift (3.5inch), yeti flip drag link, 37in tires all at the same time, immediately following my steering tsb. Took to have alignment done and wheel centered.

My tires (bfg at) where running 30 psi with ambient Temps in 30s. Ran it for 60 miles up and down highway for test drive and it felt great. Drove straight, handled like a dream.

Upon exiting freeway to head home, I hit a small pothole and got major DW at 40mph.


Went thru a complete torque check, loosed all uppet/lower control arms, drag links, drove in yard and retorqued.

Test drive good, but pothole same issue.

Removed stock steering stabilizer and noticed even worse dw at 30mph.

Took the jeep to discount tire to have them rebalance on the road force machine. Front left failed. We put spare in its place, and death wobble was gone. Reinstalled steering stabilizer and it has been perfect.

The road force tire machine is the best on the market. Find a local tire company and have them check your front tires without removing weights.

If it requires 9 on all locations, then you have a bad tire.

They have been RF balanced 7 times. Three of the 5 tires were replaced under warranty because each time I brought the jeep back and they would check them again the RF would be high on another tire. One of the times they were replacing one of them 2 new tires off the shelf wouldn’t balance. It took three new tires before they got one they would balance. After these wear out or get replaced I will never buy another BFG for anything I own.

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