roaniecowpony
Well-Known Member
Great explanation of your jeep's problem. It may give a clue to those that are experiencing this gremlin even without electrical modifications.So after I got the truck back from the dealer with no fix I figured it out on my own. So wranglers have Electro-Hydraulic power steering, meaning they have a similar power steering setup as any older vehicle consisting of a pump and a power steering rack(in our case we have a steering gear box). Only difference is that the wrangler’s pump is electric, not belt-driven like older cars. The issue with this is since the pump is one big electric motor, it’s extremely difficult to turn this pump by hand because your using your own strength to spin the steering wheel combined with the electric motor. If this was an older car with a belt driven pump, this would be no big deal on highway speeds If your pump broke because your just spinning a very small pump with no drag. Now that the explanation is out of the way I’ll tell you what was wrong in my case, I have one mod done to my wrangler which is an aftermarket audio system installed by me(I’ve done this for years and on a regular basis CORRECTLY AND SAFELY). This puts a tremendous amount of load on the vehicle’s electrical system if you have power hungry equipment such as an amplifier over 2000 watts RMS (in my case I’m pushing closer to 5000 watts at full volume), an insane amount of led lights, etc. The wrangler even though equipped with a more than capable 220 amp alternator and a AGM battery cannot keep up with this dynamic load combined with the pump because our trucks are equipped with a nightmare fuel saving measure known as a “Smart Charging Alternator “ which uses the IBS Sensor on the battery to only charge your battery when necessary or when you are braking. The power steering pump can pull upwards of 170 amps alone and a dynamic load of my amplifiers with the vehicles other systems were way too much for the vehicle to handle. This wouldn’t be in issue in an older vehicle such as a Wrangler Jk as these trucks will shoot 14volts to the battery regardless (plus they have a belt driven pump), but since we sometimes only get supplied as low as 12.3volts from our alternator while coasting, this means the alternator is basically not producing any extra available current to run any aftermarket loads. The Wrangler decides that since the voltage dropped significantly during its coasting period, that something is wrong and will trigger a failsafe of disabling the pump to prevent stalling. The fix, now that I’m done boring you here’s how I fixed my issue, I added a lithium battery in-line with my amplifiers to take the brunt of the load during dynamic loads. I also upgraded my alternator to a 450amp to have my batteries recover quicker when the vehicle is actually allowing the battery to charge. If your wrangler has a stock electric system with no upgrades such as amplifiers,winches,lights,etc, have your batteries tested outside of the vehicle. The only thing that can cause this issue is a faulty alternator or faulty batteries. Good luck and please let me know if you fix your issue!
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