KNN
Well-Known Member
Curious why you went 7 degrees caster to address the initial DW you were having? I was in a similar situation and was advised to go lower to around 6 degrees. Several mods later I’m almost cured.
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I think he ordered the Reid knuckles for the flip, taper on top………bed has been made…..can drill it through and put sleeve in I guess………Flipping the drag link on a JL is almost never necessary. You really opened a can of worms by doing this. You will now have major interference with the frame for up travel on the passenger side. You got some bad advice. While raising the track bar mount will fix your drivability issues, I highly recommend putting the drag link back in the factory location. How much off-roading do you do? With only 3” of lift you’ll have very little up travel with a flipped drag link.
Yeah I’m just amazed that people jump to that mod without doing some research. “I heard it was good on lifts 3.5” and up” You done messed up A A-Ron. If it were me I’d try and sell those knuckles to some other misinformed modder. I wouldn’t flip the drag link on less than 5.5” of lift.I think he ordered the Reid knuckles for the flip, taper on top………bed has been made…..can drill it through and put sleeve in I guess………
Agree with this. I installed Apex ball joints at 50k miles and it was tough to drive for awhile. Memory steer, having to turn the wheel back to center to come out of turns or from bumps in the road, and having stability control warnings because of it. After 1k miles it started to loosen up and now 2k miles later it seems ok and no more stability control warnings. Also installed extended zerks and have greased them.New ball joints can feel 'tight'. Like, the steering doesn't want to come back to center on it's own. It's a strange feeling. If you hit a bump in the road and it turns your wheels a bit, you have to intentionally turn the steering wheel back to center. It's an odd feeling and will eventually go away (or, maybe your brain just stops noticing it! HAHA!).
how does one determine if it’s parallel?I’d second this. The drag link and trac bar should be parallel. You’ll get bump steer just like that when they’re not the same.
Can you try the lower drag link mount on the knuckle still?
If you didn’t flip your drag link or change your track bar mount then you’re good.how does one determine if it’s parallel?
I also get shittty bumpsteer at 65+ on bumps
stock draglink , stock trackbar mount.If you didn’t flip your drag link or change your track bar mount then you’re good.