Shorted to up window switch?

[Price1961]

So 2024 jlu willys. a few days a go backed out of the garage and went to roll the windows up when i did the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and flashed overcharging. It showed 18v +/-. I shut it off and restarted it. Charging normal. 13.8v+/-. Sitting for a min I could hear a clicking in the back. Found it comming from the drivers rear door. windowmotor. Unplugged door and it stopped. Plugged it back in and it would click every few seconds. At this point found that window won't go down. A few days later when I had time found the wires to the motor and jumped them window went down. Plugged it in and window went up and click as soon as I trun the key on. Made an appointment at the dealer. They are telling me it's a bad regulator. And it's on backorder. I call bs. Because I unplugged both rear doors and you can hear the relay inside the switch when you press down but not up. And the other door it clicks both up and down. So I'll be going back to the dealer and demanding a show me why you claim the regulator. Am I wrong in thinking the switch is shorted internaly? Attached is the diagram I found from this forum. For reference I worked in the industry and was certified mazda tech. My question is. The rear switch is it a solid state type? That's what I'm seeing. I tried to ohm out the switch but have nothing to reference what I should be seeing when ohm testing it out.

Sponsored

 

[Barney392]

So 2024 jlu willys. a few days a go backed out of the garage and went to roll the windows up when i did the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and flashed overcharging. It showed 18v +/-. I shut it off and restarted it. Charging normal. 13.8v+/-. Sitting for a min I could hear a clicking in the back. Found it comming from the drivers rear door. windowmotor. Unplugged door and it stopped. Plugged it back in and it would click every few seconds. At this point found that window won't go down. A few days later when I had time found the wires to the motor and jumped them window went down. Plugged it in and window went up and click as soon as I trun the key on. Made an appointment at the dealer. They are telling me it's a bad regulator. And it's on backorder. I call bs. Because I unplugged both rear doors and you can hear the relay inside the switch when you press down but not up. And the other door it clicks both up and down. So I'll be going back to the dealer and demanding a show me why you claim the regulator. Am I wrong in thinking the switch is shorted internaly? Attached is the diagram I found from this forum. For reference I worked in the industry and was certified mazda tech. My question is. The rear switch is it a solid state type? That's what I'm seeing. I tried to ohm the out the switch but have nothing to reference what I should be seeing when ohm testing it out.

You might check this out:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/psa-on-broken-door-wiring-harness-on-jeep-jl.130539/

 

[Price1961]

Possible but it's only a year old and 13k on it. I ohm tested the plug on both doors and they match with motors connected and it's getting sent an up signal at the motor. If I hold down when I have it down and plug it in it will stop but it goes up when I let go. So again I'm leaning to it being shorted internal in the rear switch. Based on the diagrams.

Sponsored