Shock extension question

[Moto_21]

Gonna skip on bratwurst for dinner tonight.

Oh gonna switch it up to vienna sausage? Lil smokies

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[oceanblue2019]

Oh gonna switch it up to vienna sausage? Lil smokies

Nope, going with the Schweinshaxe

Fly home Sunday so might as well have the full German experience tomorrow night as not sure when I'll be back next

 

[Moto_21]

Nope, going with the Schweinshaxe

Fly home Sunday so might as well have the full German experience tomorrow night as not sure when I'll be back next

Looks like a heart, how cute for valentines day

 

[oceanblue2019]

Looks like a heart, how cute for valentines day

Pigs knuckle. Now time for sleep!

 

[spinxt]

1.5” is not that much different. Your stock shocks can handle it. Or you could stop looking for the cheap way out and buy shocks designed for a 1.5-2” lift to achieve the articulation you desire.

 

[hoag4147]

Hey im not complaining, it pleases me ??

The only one that matters ?

 

[GATORB8]

1.5” is not that much different. Your stock shocks can handle it. Or you could stop looking for the cheap way out and buy shocks designed for a 1.5-2” lift to achieve the articulation you desire.

1.5” is that much difference when stock droop is like 3”, and the TF spacers are 2”.

 

[spinxt]

You could always get FOX 2.0s….they are good for up to a 1.5” lift. My point being if your really worried about droop and doing serious off reading, maybe a spacer lift isn’t the way to go? Especially if you’re going to further screw up the geometry with shock brackets

 

[Razvan_JLU]

Went trough this already. Story is simple. You lift the stock springs with 1.5, you need to do the same with the stock shocks, otherwise they don't operate within the specs.
Even if Teraflex says no need of bumpstops and shock extenders, I don't agree with them.

In my case, the 1.5 spacer lift alone put the shocks at the limit when extended, adding a non natural feeling while driving. I added shock extensions (2 inch from teraflex) and 2 inch bump stops and the ride changed back to almost stock feeling.

You don't need to do heavy off-road to wish your car ride being nice and smooth.


So, strictly to your question, I think 2.5 inch is too much as you go again out of specs. Try the 2 inch ones from Teraflex.

 

[Zandcwhite]

So many people are under the false impression that the Jeep suspension is ideal from the factory, the fact is it’s barely adequate. The shocks are too short and function as limit straps in stock form. Longer travel shocks are the ideal fix, but shock extensions are still far better than nothing. Assuming the 4xe really does sit an inch taller than a standard rubicon but uses the same shocks in the same mounting locations Jeep is really delivering vehicles with less than 1” of droop? Stock 4xe’s need shock extensions if that’s the case. I’d have no problem running a 2.5” extension with 1.5” of lift as they didn’t allow sufficient droop from the factory.

 

[GATORB8]

Alright, I geek out on this shit, and there's so much partial info that its easy to just accept that the manufacturers know what their talking about when it comes to "lift heights" for shocks.

While I have a 4xe, I have a Rubi instead of Sahara, so I'll try to account for that in this. I went through all this and have personally run, AND I have the ride height shock measurements for them after spring settlement:
1. 1.5" TF + 2" Bump + 2" TF Shock Extensions on 35" KO2s
Front: 22" Rear: 24.25"
2. 1.5" TF + 2" Bump + Bilstein 5100 3-4.5" on 35" and 37" KO2s
Front: 22" Rear: 24.25"
3. 3.5" MC Springs + 3" Bump + Bilstein 5100 3-4.5" on 37" KO2s
Front: 24.25" Rear: 26.75"

Note: The 1.5" TF Spacer is 2" in front!! That means Stock front shock length at ride height on a 4xe Rubi is 20" Settled. Let's assume 3/4" less for the Sahara (I can change this if OP gets me the measurement) and that the Sahara has the Sport Shock Travel. I'm using AnnDee's spreadsheet and data, plus some additional stuff I have, I'm adjusting to settled height per my measurements.

Stock:
Rubi 4xe @ 20":

Sahara 4xe @ 19.25":

1.5" TF Spacer, No Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

1.5" TF Spacer, 2" Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

Some Aftermarket Options, 1.5" TF Spacer, No Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

Some Aftermarket Options, 1.5" TF Spacer, 2" Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

Conclusion for the OP's 4xe use case:

1. If extensions are used, bumps must be extended because the shocks become the bump stops.
2. If extensions aren't used, there is approx 0.2" of downtravel available!
3. Rancho was smoking something when they designed their JL shocks.
4. Without bumps being extended, OP is limited to Bilstein or Fox 0-1.5" Shocks because the shocks become the bump stops.
5. With bumps extended, OP can use Bilstein or Fox 3-4" Shocks and end up with 33*+ of front axle articulation

TLDR:
1. No Bumps and No Extensions would suck.
2. Bumps + Extensions bare minimum
3. No bumps, Bilstein or Fox 0-1.5"
4. With bumps, Bilstein or Fox 3-4", and you can show off on the ramp at Jeep events. This is 1.5" TF Spacer, 2" Bumps, 3-4.5" Bilstein's, and was bumper clearance limited at the time:

 

[Zandcwhite]

Alright, I geek out on this shit, and there's so much partial info that its easy to just accept that the manufacturers know what their talking about when it comes to "lift heights" for shocks.

While I have a 4xe, I have a Rubi instead of Sahara, so I'll try to account for that in this. I went through all this and have personally run, AND I have the ride height shock measurements for them after spring settlement:
1. 1.5" TF + 2" Bump + 2" TF Shock Extensions on 35" KO2s
Front: 22" Rear: 24.25"
2. 1.5" TF + 2" Bump + Bilstein 5100 3-4.5" on 35" and 37" KO2s
Front: 22" Rear: 24.25"
3. 3.5" MC Springs + 3" Bump + Bilstein 5100 3-4.5" on 37" KO2s
Front: 24.25" Rear: 26.75"

Note: The 1.5" TF Spacer is 2" in front!! That means Stock front shock length at ride height on a 4xe Rubi is 20" Settled. Let's assume 3/4" less for the Sahara (I can change this if OP gets me the measurement) and that the Sahara has the Sport Shock Travel. I'm using AnnDee's spreadsheet and data, plus some additional stuff I have, I'm adjusting to settled height per my measurements.

Stock:
Rubi 4xe @ 20":

Sahara 4xe @ 19.25":

1.5" TF Spacer, No Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

1.5" TF Spacer, 2" Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

Some Aftermarket Options, 1.5" TF Spacer, No Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

Some Aftermarket Options, 1.5" TF Spacer, 2" Bump (2" Front, I'm not going to adjust the rear specs down for the 1.5"):
Rubi 4xe @ 22":

Sahara 4xe @ 21.25":

Conclusion for the OP's 4xe use case:

1. If extensions are used, bumps must be extended because the shocks become the bump stops.
2. If extensions aren't used, there is approx 0.2" of downtravel available!
3. Rancho was smoking something when they designed their JL shocks.
4. Without bumps being extended, OP is limited to Bilstein or Fox 0-1.5" Shocks because the shocks become the bump stops.
5. With bumps extended, OP can use Bilstein or Fox 3-4" Shocks and end up with 33*+ of front axle articulation

TLDR:
1. No Bumps and No Extensions would suck.
2. Bumps + Extensions bare minimum
3. No bumps, Bilstein or Fox 0-1.5"
4. With bumps, Bilstein or Fox 3-4", and you can show off on the ramp at Jeep events. This is 1.5" TF Spacer, 2" Bumps, 3-4.5" Bilstein's, and was bumper clearance limited at the time:

A simple 2” bump stop extension and metal cloak rock sport shocks for the budget conscious and the Jeep will flex like it should. We ran a 2.5” spacer, rock sports, and 37’s for ~20k miles with stock track bars, steering, and ball joints. Only other suspension mod was rubicon express adjustable LCA’s in the front. From John Bull/Holcomb creek/ gold mountain in CA, to Moab including Hell’s revenge/fins/top of the world/poison spider/golden spike/gold bar rim to tillamook,OR trails to the Dusy Erishim trail. Anybody who thinks you need a full kit to flex and/or wheel is buying in to a narrative not speaking from experience. We then swapped out the springs, front track bar, tie rod and ball joints. Improved steering, which was worn from ~30k miles of hard use but didn’t make a huge difference in flex or ride. We are now at about 4” of lift and only ~$2,500 total in to the suspension/steering. I'd say it flexes amazingly for a budget build.

 

[GATORB8]

A simple 2” bump stop extension and metal cloak rock sport shocks for the budget conscious and the Jeep will flex like it should. We ran a 2.5” spacer, rock sports, and 37’s for ~20k miles with stock track bars, steering, and ball joints. Only other suspension mod was rubicon express adjustable LCA’s in the front. From John Bull/Holcomb creek/ gold mountain in CA, to Moab including Hell’s revenge/fins/top of the world/poison spider/golden spike/gold bar rim to tillamook,OR trails to the Dusy Erishim trail. Anybody who thinks you need a full kit to flex and/or wheel is buying in to a narrative not speaking from experience. We then swapped out the springs, front track bar, tie rod and ball joints. Improved steering, which was worn from ~30k miles of hard use but didn’t make a huge difference in flex or ride. We are now at about 4” of lift and only ~$2,500 total in to the suspension/steering. I'd say it flexes amazingly for a budget build.

Great feedback, I agree it's easy to look past what really determines flex and buy into the "you have to have a full, proper lift kit" whatever that means.

One note, and I'm not sure how close the non-4xe is, but with the 28.43" front extension on jackstands full droop, my stock driveshaft contacts the crossmember at the slip joint. I assume this is slightly worse than ICE because the transmission is longer, pushing the transfer case output toward the back.

I may be overconcerned because it would only really happen if you were turtled on a ledge, but I could definitely tear that slip joint boot, and I have more than 1.5" less droop than the Rocksports.

 

[Zandcwhite]

Great feedback, I agree it's easy to look past what really determines flex and buy into the "you have to have a full, proper lift kit" whatever that means.

One note, and I'm not sure how close the non-4xe is, but with the 28.43" front extension on jackstands full droop, my stock driveshaft contacts the crossmember at the slip joint. I assume this is slightly worse than ICE because the transmission is longer, pushing the transfer case output toward the back.

I may be overconcerned because it would only really happen if you were turtled on a ledge, but I could definitely tear that slip joint boot, and I have more than 1.5" less droop than the Rocksports.

The front crossmember got deleted when the asfir engine skid went on and the front driveshaft got replaced with a traditional u-joint style for more travel. If you are going for maximum flex other mods start to become necessary, but they don’t come with the ”complete kits” either.

 

[GATORB8]

The front crossmember got deleted when the asfir engine skid went on and the front driveshaft got replaced with a traditional u-joint style for more travel. If you are going for maximum flex other mods start to become necessary, but they don’t come with the ”complete kits” either.

Damn, you got my hopes up. Looks like the 4xe specific ASFIR uses the crossmember, unlike in the gasser.

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