Yeah, I'll have to do some serious homework on that rear axle yoke nut. I'm looking to install my 1350 JE Reel rear driveshaft this Saturday after work.
Hey Mike @Headbarcode, do what you need to do. There's a lot of ways to get it done. What worked or doesnt work for me, may not work for you. I dont want to be responsible for your gear set. Maybe that one friend can swing by and help you with your 1350s. LOL.
Well, my homework came up with a bunch of inconsistent and/or incomplete methods of tightening the pinion yoke nut on the oem axles that still have the pinion bearing crush sleeve in play. Turns out that JE Reel Driveline provides an awesome 4 page set of highly detailed instructions with their driveshafts.
That seems like a much better strategy. The only issue I have is that with the ultra tight tolerance on that pinion bearing, 5in/lbs could easily put you above the spec. The roller bearings in the m220 axle is extremely sensitive to torque. You won’t hear it scream for thousands of miles. I’m sure you’re fine, but having done my own gears AND replaces that tail bearing due to being a hair over the spec, it make’s me nervous. The only benefit is now I can drop my carrier in about 30 minutes?Well, my homework came up with a bunch of inconsistent and/or incomplete methods of tightening the pinion yoke nut on the oem axles that still have the pinion bearing crush sleeve in play. Turns out that JE Reel Driveline provides an awesome 4 page set of highly detailed instructions with their driveshafts.
I've had a decent vibration lately, from about 57-64mph with the oem rear driveshaft. I followed the following JE Reel instructions and it's not only smooth as butter now, but it also accelerates with a noticeable increase pep along the whole speed range from a dead stop. That makes me quite convinced that I didn't over tighten the crush sleeve, this over loading the pinion bearing.
I'm going to have to concur with 19 JLUR Bright Whit3 on this one.
Here's the steps I followed...
-with the rear axle on jack stands, remove the wheel and tire weight
-compress the rear brake caliper pistons to prevent any possible brake pad drag on the axle shafts
-after removing the oem driveshaft, perform a rotational torque test of the pinion nut with an in/lb dial beam style torque wrench 3-4 times to confirm the reading and record it for later reference
-prep the new yoke and nut blah blah blah
-torque the nut to 160ft/lbs
-check the rotational torque. If the initial in/lb reading has not been reached, increase the torque in 5lb/lb increments until the rotational torque reaches 5in/lbs over the initial reading
Here's the in/lb 3/8" drive beam style torque wrench with recording dial that I recently purchased for this install...
According to the JE Reel instructions, which again are the most complete and detailed I've seen with Jeep parts so far, the extra 5in/lbs is meant to ensure that the crush sleeve and bearing isn't under torqued. That can be as bad as over torqued. Also, on what's supposed to be a one time yoke swap/upgrade on a vehicle with some mileage racked up, it's safe to assume that the bearing preload was already starting to relax and that extra touch helps bring it back into spec range.
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You're always welcome to open your trap here! LOL@Headbarcode and @word302 , good info here…… I’ve always done it by feel, so there’s no way I can explain that, let alone guarantee it will work for the next guy, thus the reason I’ve been keeping my trap shut in this thread……..
Definitely hard to verbally describe the "feeling", but I know exactly what you mean. For years of truck repair and a slew of brake jobs, the opposed hub bearings needed the right amount of preload with the axle nut. No measuring tools, just that feel.@Headbarcode and @word302 , good info here…… I’ve always done it by feel, so there’s no way I can explain that, let alone guarantee it will work for the next guy, thus the reason I’ve been keeping my trap shut in this thread……..
Sounds like 3 or 4 ugga duggas to me.@Headbarcode and @word302 , good info here…… I’ve always done it by feel, so there’s no way I can explain that, let alone guarantee it will work for the next guy, thus the reason I’ve been keeping my trap shut in this thread……..
Yep….. and one sumabictch……I have an old shoulder injury ( football ) it pops at 100ft lbs so then I know I’m close…. The wife been on me to get fixed, can’t get it through to her, that it’s part of my tool collection……. ?Sounds like 3 or 4 ugga duggas to me.
I save that last bit for lower control arms. ?
Nothing better than hearing the "click" at 180lbs.
Yes the “click”…….. my buddy’s got a fancy snap on torque wrench that you have to program the computer built in it before you can use it…….then you get to watch little lights come on and you hear this lame as beep, c’mon… WTF is that… I mean it’s probably precise as it gets, but I’ve been wrenching for, well, forever and never had any problems with the “ click “………… ?
