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Rock Krawler vs. Clayton

JLAFAKASI

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Which kit is better for me not to bottom out? RK adventure or Clayton?
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Dfideth

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I only can give you my experience with Clayton 2.5 Overland.
I have true 37" tires and been on some 7-9 trails in California.
I set it up per the instructions and I only have rubbing on the rear inner liner, but all 37' rub there. No bottoming out, but I have a 1.25" spacers on my stock rubicon wheels. And no rubbing at full lock.
 

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Which kit is better for me not to bottom out? RK adventure or Clayton?
Can you give more details of your build? Extra weight IE Bumpers, Winches, Tire Carriers, Spare tire or no? Intended use? High speed desert? Rock crawling? Daily driver? Desired lift height? Desired tire size?
 

Clayton Off Road

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Which kit is better for me not to bottom out? RK adventure or Clayton?
We design our kits using a higher spring rate than most other kits out there, and I have not encountered or heard of any bottoming out issues with any of our springs or kits :like:
 

JLAFAKASI

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Can you give more details of your build? Extra weight IE Bumpers, Winches, Tire Carriers, Spare tire or no? Intended use? High speed desert? Rock crawling? Daily driver? Desired lift height? Desired tire size?
JlU sport looking to stay with 33s…want something to improve ride quality and sticking to fire roads and sand dunes. Looking to budget build.
 

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JLAFAKASI

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Can you give more details of your build? Extra weight IE Bumpers, Winches, Tire Carriers, Spare tire or no? Intended use? High speed desert? Rock crawling? Daily driver? Desired lift height? Desired tire size?
Is it true that the adventure series joints were used in the baja 500? Are your trackbars maintenance free too in the entry level adventure series kit?
 

word302

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Is it true that the adventure series joints were used in the baja 500? Are your trackbars maintenance free too in the entry level adventure series kit?
I doubt they have a track bar without a grease zerk. Either way it’s literally one zerk on each track bar. They couldn’t be any easier to service.
 

545moose

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Yes 2.5" is available in the Overland kit as well! I can leave you a link. We always at least recommend changing out the front driveshaft, but when it becomes really necessary is when you start to get over 3" of lift, and also if you're going to be taking it wheeling a lot. If you're doing the 2.5" kit, and only wheeling once in a while, you might be able to get away with holding off for a little bit before upgrading.

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-overland-lift-kit-2018-jl
To resurrect an older thread, what are some front drive shaft options when going to 37s and larger? I plan to at least go 35s and more geared towards overland but want solid trail capability but not full crawler status at all. 3.5" lift, and Diesel which should narrow things even more lol
 

TX_Ovrlnd

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To resurrect an older thread, what are some front drive shaft options when going to 37s and larger? I plan to at least go 35s and more geared towards overland but want solid trail capability but not full crawler status at all. 3.5" lift, and Diesel which should narrow things even more lol
A lot of people like Adams Driveshafts.
 

OversandJL

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To resurrect an older thread, what are some front drive shaft options when going to 37s and larger? I plan to at least go 35s and more geared towards overland but want solid trail capability but not full crawler status at all. 3.5" lift, and Diesel which should narrow things even more lol
It really depends on how much droop your shocks allow. If your not flexing out all the time you will probably be ok for quite a while with your stock shaft. Adams or Tom Woods make some great products though.
 

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545moose

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It really depends on how much droop your shocks allow. If your not flexing out all the time you will probably be ok for quite a while with your stock shaft. Adams or Tom Woods make some great products though.
Cool ok thanks, am I right in that you have to match your new front driveshaft length to the lift you add over all to the Jeep? How do you calculate what new length you we need, besides getting one with the new/upgraded joint type to flex better?
 

OversandJL

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Cool ok thanks, am I right in that you have to match your new front driveshaft length to the lift you add over all to the Jeep? How do you calculate what new length you we need, besides getting one with the new/upgraded joint type to flex better?
Both of those companies will give you the instructions to measure for a new front shaft. It's not as simple as getting a new shaft that is 3.5 inches or 2.5 inches longer.
 

Clayton Off Road

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To resurrect an older thread, what are some front drive shaft options when going to 37s and larger? I plan to at least go 35s and more geared towards overland but want solid trail capability but not full crawler status at all. 3.5" lift, and Diesel which should narrow things even more lol
We've always worked with Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts, and most of our customers looking for new driveshaft options have gone through them for their upgrade! You don't necessarily need a new driveshaft with a 2.5" or 3.5" kit, it really depends on how much rock crawling you're going to be using the vehicle for.
 

545moose

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We've always worked with Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts, and most of our customers looking for new driveshaft options have gone through them for their upgrade! You don't necessarily need a new driveshaft with a 2.5" or 3.5" kit, it really depends on how much rock crawling you're going to be using the vehicle for.
Thanks for the reply and info. As many others have said, kudos for the participation here; vendor support and quality are key and hard to find these days. Spot on~đź‘Ś
 

word302

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We've always worked with Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts, and most of our customers looking for new driveshaft options have gone through them for their upgrade! You don't necessarily need a new driveshaft with a 2.5" or 3.5" kit, it really depends on how much rock crawling you're going to be using the vehicle for.
It doesn't really matter if you rock crawl or not, it's a function of shock extended length. If you have shocks that allow sufficient droop you'll tear up the stock shaft whether you're on rocks or not.
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