Rock Krawler 2.5?

[XJrider]

Do you mind explaining spring perch height? Below you can see the part # says Rock Krawler RK 04186

Pretty long explanation, but jeep did a good job of stuffing the suspension up into the JL to keep springs long and center of gravity low. Perch height on the platforms differ so i wondered if they differed from sport to Rubicon to give seperate ride dynamics based on model. Its best to measure from axle to frame rather than street to bottom of rocker panel. And hard to judge by clearing a certain tire...0

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[XJrider]

@Rock Krawler Suspension I just received my front LCA's along with front and rear track bar (x-factor) today. I'm looking forward to putting them on. I have a question about the zerk fitting. I'd prefer not to cut out a part of the brace so I can access it with my grease gun. You guys have said in the past that this was optional. I also dont want to mount the zerk on the bottom due to possibly getting sheared off from a rock.

How hard is it to get to access the zerk fitting with a grease gun if I orientate it on top as opposed to the bottom?

Is it possible (and is there room) to fit a 90 degree zerk nipple on the joint?

Could I mount the zerk opening on the bottom and use some sort of plug when not in use. Then put the zerk fitting every 6 months for maintenance?

Sorry about all the questions but I really don't want to cut the brackets. Not because Im worried about the structural damage....Im just too lazy!

ALSO, if anyone has any pics of the zerk fitting mounted upright wihout the bracket cut, PLEASE post them. I really want to see how much space there is to grease them.

EDIT: I have one other question. The instructions say to have between .2 - .4 cross caster split with more on the passenger side. Can you tell me what this accomplishes? I'm not familiar with the reasons to NOT make the caster even on both sides. Acutally, given the solid axel I didn't even think it was possible to have a difference in caster on both sides.


Thx!

Now this is wrong. There is NO way to put cross caster on a solid axle without offset ball joints. So i cant imagine why RK is misleading in their instructions. Cross caster is used to compensate drift from tires or in the jeeps case the offset axle shaft lengths creating an inertal drift.

 

[Midwest22]

Now this is wrong. There is NO way to put cross caster on a solid axle without offset ball joints. So i cant imagine why RK is misleading in their instructions. Cross caster is used to compensate drift from tires or in the jeeps case the offset axle shaft lengths creating an inertal drift.

Thats what I was thinking too. Its a solid axle! If you 'attempt' to put a different caster angle on one side you will have to shorten one of the LCAs. In theory this will pull one side closer. This sounds like it will then cause the axle to be turned toward one side causing more tire wear. Im no engineer so maybe my thinking is flawed here but I just don't see the logic in "cross caster".

 

[River City Offroad]

It wouldnt suprise me if its the same spring and they changed the number to avoid confusion. or if they did re-design it and we id get old ones and those worked till they were able to develop more. But who knows. I dont remember my stock numbers on height but i do know ive been reading through the MC 2.5" lifts and they are a full 1 1/4" higher than me in the rear on same jlu sport with same size tires.

@Rock Krawler Suspension I just received my front LCA's along with front and rear track bar (x-factor) today. I'm looking forward to putting them on. I have a question about the zerk fitting. I'd prefer not to cut out a part of the brace so I can access it with my grease gun. You guys have said in the past that this was optional. I also dont want to mount the zerk on the bottom due to possibly getting sheared off from a rock.

How hard is it to get to access the zerk fitting with a grease gun if I orientate it on top as opposed to the bottom?

Is it possible (and is there room) to fit a 90 degree zerk nipple on the joint?

Could I mount the zerk opening on the bottom and use some sort of plug when not in use. Then put the zerk fitting every 6 months for maintenance?

Sorry about all the questions but I really don't want to cut the brackets. Not because Im worried about the structural damage....Im just too lazy!

ALSO, if anyone has any pics of the zerk fitting mounted upright wihout the bracket cut, PLEASE post them. I really want to see how much space there is to grease them.

EDIT: I have one other question. The instructions say to have between .2 - .4 cross caster split with more on the passenger side. Can you tell me what this accomplishes? I'm not familiar with the reasons to NOT make the caster even on both sides. Acutally, given the solid axel I didn't even think it was possible to have a difference in caster on both sides.


Thx!

I didn't want to cut my brackets either, so I just run with the zerks down. I have the zerks down on my JK that is more of a crawler than anything and all of the zerks are still in tact. Your thought about using a plug and screwing a zerk in when you need to oil the joints is probably the best solution to remove any reason for doubt.

Marcus

 

[Midwest22]

I didn't want to cut my brackets either, so I just run with the zerks down. I have the zerks down on my JK that is more of a crawler than anything and all of the zerks are still in tact. Your thought about using a plug and screwing a zerk in when you need to oil the joints is probably the best solution to remove any reason for doubt.

Marcus

Thanks Marcus! I think I will just run with them down. Worst case scenario one gets hit and breaks off. I'll just replace it. That will be much less of an inconvenience than trying to maintain them without cutting the bracket. Correct me if Im wrong but they are already pre lubed, right?

 

[travelboysteve]

@Rock Krawler Suspension I just received my front LCA's along with front and rear track bar (x-factor) today. I'm looking forward to putting them on. I have a question about the zerk fitting. I'd prefer not to cut out a part of the brace so I can access it with my grease gun. You guys have said in the past that this was optional. I also dont want to mount the zerk on the bottom due to possibly getting sheared off from a rock.

How hard is it to get to access the zerk fitting with a grease gun if I orientate it on top as opposed to the bottom?

Is it possible (and is there room) to fit a 90 degree zerk nipple on the joint?

Could I mount the zerk opening on the bottom and use some sort of plug when not in use. Then put the zerk fitting every 6 months for maintenance?

Sorry about all the questions but I really don't want to cut the brackets. Not because Im worried about the structural damage....Im just too lazy!

ALSO, if anyone has any pics of the zerk fitting mounted upright wihout the bracket cut, PLEASE post them. I really want to see how much space there is to grease them.

EDIT: I have one other question. The instructions say to have between .2 - .4 cross caster split with more on the passenger side. Can you tell me what this accomplishes? I'm not familiar with the reasons to NOT make the caster even on both sides. Acutally, given the solid axel I didn't even think it was possible to have a difference in caster on both sides.


Thx!

Well,
I have mine pointing down.
They don't sit right at the bottom, they're at the rear and if I shear it off, I'll drill, tap and thread it.
You can fab up or buy some LCA skids for protection I guess.
My .02, is to NOT reduce structural integrity to anything, period.
No cutting for me.
You can get an angled zerk fitting if you want, It's still pretty tight, but hey, exactly how many times is a person REALLY going to be lubing their zerc's.
The answer to that lies in usage I would think.
If I had to, I'd drop the front bolt, lube it up, put it back on and have a coke and a smile.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

And besides, what Marcus said,....

 

[Midwest22]

Well,
I have mine pointing down.
They don't sit right at the bottom, they're at the rear and if I shear it off, I'll drill, tap and thread it.
You can fab up or buy some LCA skids for protection I guess.
My .02, is to NOT reduce structural integrity to anything, period.
No cutting for me.
You can get an angled zerk fitting if you want, It's still pretty tight, but hey, exactly how many times is a person REALLY going to be lubing their zerc's.
The answer to that lies in usage I would think.
If I had to, I'd drop the front bolt, lube it up, put it back on and have a coke and a smile.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

And besides, what Marcus said,....

The more I think about this the more I agree with you. I'm not interested in cutting ANYTHING that pertains to structural rigidity. I have no problem drilling out a sheared zerk fitting so I'm going to go this route. If I break something, so be it.

 

[travelboysteve]

The more I think about this the more I agree with you. I'm not interested in cutting ANYTHING that pertains to structural rigidity. I have no problem drilling out a sheared zerk fitting so I'm going to go this route. If I break something, so be it.

Yeah brother, drive it like you stole it

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

@Rock Krawler Suspension I just received my front LCA's along with front and rear track bar (x-factor) today. I'm looking forward to putting them on. I have a question about the zerk fitting. I'd prefer not to cut out a part of the brace so I can access it with my grease gun. You guys have said in the past that this was optional. I also dont want to mount the zerk on the bottom due to possibly getting sheared off from a rock.

How hard is it to get to access the zerk fitting with a grease gun if I orientate it on top as opposed to the bottom?

Is it possible (and is there room) to fit a 90 degree zerk nipple on the joint?

Could I mount the zerk opening on the bottom and use some sort of plug when not in use. Then put the zerk fitting every 6 months for maintenance?

Sorry about all the questions but I really don't want to cut the brackets. Not because Im worried about the structural damage....Im just too lazy!

ALSO, if anyone has any pics of the zerk fitting mounted upright wihout the bracket cut, PLEASE post them. I really want to see how much space there is to grease them.

EDIT: I have one other question. The instructions say to have between .2 - .4 cross caster split with more on the passenger side. Can you tell me what this accomplishes? I'm not familiar with the reasons to NOT make the caster even on both sides. Acutally, given the solid axel I didn't even think it was possible to have a difference in caster on both sides.


Thx!

A few other options are as follows;

1) Get a right angle fitting for your grease gun, but you will still want to check clearance for the high clearance bend in the arm and the mount at full droop based on your shock lengths no matter what.

2) Get the artec skids which will protect the zirc if it is mounted down, but again check clearances at full droop

3) Mount it down, then swap the zirc for a standard small 1/4-28 socket head cap screw and when you service the joint once every 3-5 months, simply swap the zirc in, but again, make sure to check for clearance at full droop.

The cross caster split accounts for road crown and the pull it causes. The axle weldments from the factory should have cross caster in them. But, this is a good check for alignment shops to make sure it is correct.

Hope that helps.

 

[Midwest22]

make sure to check for clearance at full droop

Oh, I had no idea that the cut in the bracket was also for clearance issues at droop. Hmmm. I've got a 2" lift, so nothing too crazy. Do you think that I will have clearance issues with the brackets? I would really rather not cut them.

 

[19JL]

Now this is wrong. There is NO way to put cross caster on a solid axle without offset ball joints. So i cant imagine why RK is misleading in their instructions. Cross caster is used to compensate drift from tires or in the jeeps case the offset axle shaft lengths creating an inertal drift.

They are not misleading, there’s cross caster built in with the brackets and you’d be surprised how much separation you can get between the sides on a solid axle. Remove one of your lower control arm bolts while the jeep is on the ground then try and put it back in. It’s not going to happen without some help aligning it back up. I actually have mine set to .3 degrees difference. I know this doesn’t represent that but it shows a difference in the caster.

 

[XJrider]

They are not misleading, there’s cross caster built in with the brackets and you’d be surprised how much separation you can get between the sides on a solid axle. Remove one of your lower control arm bolts while the jeep is on the ground then try and put it back in. It’s not going to happen without some help aligning it back up. I actually have mine set to .3 degrees difference. I know this doesn’t represent that but it shows a difference in the caster.

Think about what your saying. You can not twist a solid axle. The only way to get cross caster is offset ball joints. I’m not sure you understand the concept.

 

[Moto_21]

They are not misleading, there’s cross caster built in with the brackets and you’d be surprised how much separation you can get between the sides on a solid axle. Remove one of your lower control arm bolts while the jeep is on the ground then try and put it back in. It’s not going to happen without some help aligning it back up. I actually have mine set to .3 degrees difference. I know this doesn’t represent that but it shows a difference in the caster.

I want to know if your differential housing is at 90 or 0 degrees with 6 degree caster. If you have an anle finger would you be able to check? Please?

 

[SSBattalion]

Can't wait to get this 2.5" X Factor Kit on.

 

[Midwest22]

SO, Ive got a question. I just had the x-factor 2.5 LCA's installed along with the front and rear adjustable track bar. As I looked over the work that my shop did on the install I see something that concerns me. The rear adjustable track bar appears to be too long to allow for proper adjustments. Take a look at the photo that shows where the joint is in comparison to the bar.

I just read through your instructions and you don't even appear to offer the adjustable track bar for the 2.5" kit. BTW, Im using a Dyantrac 2" springs with Fox shocks and my added weight I'm probably not even at 2 inches.

The concern I have is that I kinda feel a little wobbly in the rear along with what feels like a bit of crab walk.

Did I receive the wrong part number? (this is what I ordered: RK06692)

How do I actually 'adjust' this if I cant move the joint in closer?

Overall Im really happy with the LCA's and the front adjustable track bar but this rear has me scratching my head.

-S

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