Replacing Alpine Sub with Aftermarket using same housing

AusJeepNoob

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I have a LC2i pro (LOC) sitting on a shelf. Can I pull the line in inputs from the subwoofer harness, or do I need to grab it from the sound bar still?
Everything I've read says pull it from the soundbar speakers. LC2i low pass is at 400Hz and isn't adjustable so make sure your amp has a built in crossover.





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Crusifix

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Awesome work. I've been getting better at 3d printing myself, however I think my ender needs an upgraded hot end. Struggling with abs.
The number one thing you need with ABS is an enclosure. The number two thing, is a good hotend, with a direct drive following in 3rd. I use micro Swiss for number 2 and 3. The 16x16x20 inch build surface is a nice upgrade too.
 

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Everything I've read says pull it from the soundbar speakers. LC2i low pass is at 400Hz and isn't adjustable so make sure your amp has a built in crossover.
Thanks! Yeah, I have a great amp and crossover. I should be set, either way.
 

LSguy

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The number one thing you need with ABS is an enclosure. The number two thing, is a good hotend, with a direct drive following in 3rd. I use micro Swiss for number 2 and 3. The 16x16x20 inch build surface is a nice upgrade too.
Yeah, I actually have the Swiss hot end and direct drive in my shopping cart. An auto bed leveler as well lol. And for the enclosure, I'm working on building one now. Eventually I'd like to get that print size upgraded, just not certain what all is involved yet.
 

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Yeah, I actually have the Swiss hot end and direct drive in my shopping cart. An auto bed leveler as well lol. And for the enclosure, I'm working on building one now. Eventually I'd like to get that print size upgraded, just not certain what all is involved yet.
Check out Ender extender. It's a complete kit and does extremely well. I use a BLtouch, but any leveling system will work.
 

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Also, everything says pull the signal from the soundbar, however I don't believe most of those people had the sub to begin with. What bothers me about pulling signal from the sound bar is that the stock alpine speakers are crossed and EQd at the amp, meaning no significant bass signal should even be running through the sound bar wires. Either 1, their processor is recreating the frequency, or 2 they are actually hearing midbass from their new sub.
 

Crusifix

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Also, everything says pull the signal from the soundbar, however I don't believe most of those people had the sub to begin with. What bothers me about pulling signal from the sound bar is that the stock alpine speakers are crossed and EQd at the amp, meaning no significant bass signal should even be running through the sound bar wires. Either 1, their processor is recreating the frequency, or 2 they are actually hearing midbass from their new sub.
That is one thing that concerned me. I may try grabbing it from the sub harness. If that doesn't work, it only costs me about 20 minutes.
 

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One last design update. I think this will be the final version. Print time is down to 32 hours with this one, and it is a much cleaner design. I created a component to replicate the JL grill that can be purchased with the speaker I am getting. I'm still not sure how well this would play out for the community, as with the quality of material I use to print with, as well as the time taken away from other projects, my cost comes out to $73.28 as calculated by the software I use for pricing prints. Then there is the hidden issue of failed prints that cost me. It isn't many, but I'd say one in 10 has a flaw. With needing to absorb that potential, these would have to sell for around $150.00. I just don't see there being a market for that. If someone knows of a company that can take my design and make a mold of it and mass produce it, then I can contact them and maybe we can get a product that is affordable.
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chris1374

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I’m loving all of the CAD and 3D Printer designs! This is what I was looking for a week ago. My 3D printer isn’t large enough to print entire ring so I divided ring into 4 identical pieces that overlapped at the bolt locations. But I have a friend who laser cut a piece of stainless steel to make my adapter. I went this route but forgot to account for the depth. So I had to mount the adapter on top of the Jeep ring and I had to remove some of the enclosure ribbing behind the sub. Fits perfectly now.
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Crusifix

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I’m loving all of the CAD and 3D Printer designs! This is what I was looking for a week ago. My 3D printer isn’t large enough to print entire ring so I divided ring into 4 identical pieces that overlapped at the bolt locations. But I have a friend who laser cut a piece of stainless steel to make my adapter. I went this route but forgot to account for the depth. So I had to mount the adapter on top of the Jeep ring and I had to remove some of the enclosure ribbing behind the sub. Fits perfectly now.
403BFEBE-88A3-4611-B119-F8193A156EFD.jpeg
How is the sound? I'm buying stock in dynamat..LOL. Just as insurance against vibrations. I'm also wrapping the back of the enclosure with it so it doesn't vibrate against the body.
 

chris1374

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I finally got it fully installed and playing yesterday and it sounds great! I did place dynamat inside the enclosure on any flat surface that I could reach and then some more along the flat sections of the fender well before I reinstalled the enclosure to the Jeep. I may add some polyfill later to see if that has any effect on the sound.
 

Crusifix

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I finally got it fully installed and playing yesterday and it sounds great! I did place dynamat inside the enclosure on any flat surface that I could reach and then some more along the flat sections of the fender well before I reinstalled the enclosure to the Jeep. I may add some polyfill later to see if that has any effect on the sound.

Well done!
 

Crusifix

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With a little more digging, I am trying to sort out using a pair of the wires from the sub harness. Or perhaps combining all 4 positives together and the same with the negatives and running them into the LC2i Pro. I think that they are all pushing the same mono channel to the sub, but I am not sure. I have never in my life dealt with a FVC (Four-Voice-Coil) speaker. I assume that it would be similar to a DVC in that it is most likely, but not always hooked up as a mono design meant to bring down the impedance. Does anyone have an answer or speculation as to this? If I should only hook up one of the wire sets, which one? I have the four groupings highlighted. My theory is that the signal being sent to the sub from the factory Alpine amp will be more pure for running bass only.

Also, on a better note. I cancelled the JL sub that I was getting from Crutchfield, as it was on backorder till April, and found one in stock at Sound Of Tri-State yesterday. It is showing that it will be delivered tomorrow...so, this could be a busy weekend... ;-)

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areyna2313

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Another print update. One hour left...

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Where do I sign up to get one of these?? Looking to upgrade my "premium Alpine" system in my 2021 Wrangler Unlimited. So far I have added Infinity speakers 6.5" to the soundbar (WOW!), same Infinity speakers to the kneee panel, and 3.5" Kicker speakers in the dash. I know NOTHING about speakers or aftermarkets. Kenwood Ampl is going to be installed by a pro in 3 weeks. Unless anyone recommends an easy plug in play forthis option?? All my speakers were plug in play. Now just need to either take the plunge on $1500 worth of JL Stealthboxes or find a plug in play option for a sub in the Alpine system (preferred).
Thanks for all the info!
 

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