Rear window defroster unsoldered?

[zouch]

OK, i don't think i'd call that "fixed"; they gave you a new piece of the same glass with the same defroster wire attachment. not surprisingly, it has the same problem.

you might want to try actually fixing one of them; would probably be quicker, easier, and possibly more effective than another trip to the dealer.

ref:
TSB 08-037-19 REV. B

The glass was replaced. Now, it’s being replaced again.

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[DaltonGang]

OK, i don't think i'd call that "fixed"; they gave you a new piece of the same glass with the same defroster wire attachment. not surprisingly, it has the same problem.

you might want to try actually fixing one of them; would probably be quicker, easier, and possibly more effective than another trip to the dealer.

ref:
TSB 08-037-19 REV. B

They tried that with mine, 3 times. It didn't work more than 1 week. Once, it broke loose while the service writer was showing me that they fixed it. That was kind of funny.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

I’m on my third piece of glass with them trying to fix the problem. After the third piece of glass not working right out of the dealer I gave up on it. Left it for a couple years. I finally got around to diagnosing myself why it wasn’t working, as the tabs were still attached. The passenger side was electrically open, and I found that the plastic cap (that had spring tabs inside) was not fully seated on the metal button that’s actually soldered to the glass. I reattached it, tested it, and saw that it was solid and working again. A couple weeks after regaining function the solder failed and it’s now dangling again, after a couple years of staying attached. I think the solder being used just fails under heat and pops the tab off.

I mean, you’d think after 70 or so years of making defrosters that they’d have mastered this by now.

 

[zouch]

i meant that doing it yourself is probably the best option.
i did it myself paying particular attention to the heating of the repair, and it seems to have worked so far. my feeling is that the Dealer techs are just slapping it on as they think it a menial repair they can do quickly, and aren't as interested in getting it done well as we might be.

i mean, if *i* can do it, how hard can it be, right?

They tried that with mine, 3 times. It didn't work more than 1 week. Once, it broke loose while the service writer was showing me that they fixed it. That was kind of funny.

 

[Pat’s Sahara Unlimited]

I’m on my third piece of glass with them trying to fix the problem. After the third piece of glass not working right out of the dealer I gave up on it. Left it for a couple years. I finally got around to diagnosing myself why it wasn’t working, as the tabs were still attached. The passenger side was electrically open, and I found that the plastic cap (that had spring tabs inside) was not fully seated on the metal button that’s actually soldered to the glass. I reattached it, tested it, and saw that it was solid and working again. A couple weeks after regaining function the solder failed and it’s now dangling again, after a couple years of staying attached. I think the solder being used just fails under heat and pops the tab off.

I mean, you’d think after 70 or so years of making defrosters that they’d have mastered this by now.

If you scan previous posts, quite few of us seem to have found a way to fix this « permanently ». Some of you on this post are tired of my explanation, but since people keep posting their problem without reading the previous 30 pages, I’ll put it again anyway… I the issue is caused by 2 things 1) small contact patch and 2) current generated heat, which is your diagnostic as well. Using lots of resl solder attaching the button on a piece of copper and glueing that bigger piece of copper on the defrost grid seems to be the « fix ». Curing of the conductive epoxy is key. You need to use heat, and keep things at room temperature for 24 hours sfter the 30 or so minutes of high heat curing. I’ve done that, and it’s been over a year now and things are solid, and I use the defrost almost on a daily basis (I live in Montreal and I carry two big Bernese breathing on the rear glass in very cold weather…

 

[Nevets.ca]

If you scan previous posts, quite few of us seem to have found a way to fix this « permanently ». Some of you on this post are tired of my explanation, but since people keep posting their problem without reading the previous 30 pages, I’ll put it again anyway… I the issue is caused by 2 things 1) small contact patch and 2) current generated heat, which is your diagnostic as well. Using lots of resl solder attaching the button on a piece of copper and glueing that bigger piece of copper on the defrost grid seems to be the « fix ». Curing of the conductive epoxy is key. You need to use heat, and keep things at room temperature for 24 hours sfter the 30 or so minutes of high heat curing. I’ve done that, and it’s been over a year now and things are solid, and I use the defrost almost on a daily basis (I live in Montreal and I carry two big Bernese breathing on the rear glass in very cold weather…

My 5th window replacement and the very last window covered by our warranty and im tired going back and fort and getting advice from them not to open the back window this is my last resort tape and zip tie in the end of the clip lets see how long this is gonna last.

 

[DaltonGang]

If you scan previous posts, quite few of us seem to have found a way to fix this « permanently ». Some of you on this post are tired of my explanation, but since people keep posting their problem without reading the previous 30 pages, I’ll put it again anyway… I the issue is caused by 2 things 1) small contact patch and 2) current generated heat, which is your diagnostic as well. Using lots of resl solder attaching the button on a piece of copper and glueing that bigger piece of copper on the defrost grid seems to be the « fix ». Curing of the conductive epoxy is key. You need to use heat, and keep things at room temperature for 24 hours sfter the 30 or so minutes of high heat curing. I’ve done that, and it’s been over a year now and things are solid, and I use the defrost almost on a daily basis (I live in Montreal and I carry two big Bernese breathing on the rear glass in very cold weather…

Any pics of your set-up??

.

 

[Jeepless]

I had my car broken into and glass replaced with non OEM back glass and tinted. The solder has come loose as well. Haven’t stressed on it much tbh, but I’m assuming this would not be replaced by warranty due to non OEM and tint?

I planned to resolder myself one day, any recommendations or tips?

 

[Jeepless]

If you scan previous posts, quite few of us seem to have found a way to fix this « permanently ». Some of you on this post are tired of my explanation, but since people keep posting their problem without reading the previous 30 pages, I’ll put it again anyway… I the issue is caused by 2 things 1) small contact patch and 2) current generated heat, which is your diagnostic as well. Using lots of resl solder attaching the button on a piece of copper and glueing that bigger piece of copper on the defrost grid seems to be the « fix ». Curing of the conductive epoxy is key. You need to use heat, and keep things at room temperature for 24 hours sfter the 30 or so minutes of high heat curing. I’ve done that, and it’s been over a year now and things are solid, and I use the defrost almost on a daily basis (I live in Montreal and I carry two big Bernese breathing on the rear glass in very cold weather…

Haha sorry, just read, disregard previous post as I was also too lazy to read

 

[jeepingib]

I remember seeing a guy here who used a penny for a conductive heat soak to put the tab on. Seemed like a pretty good idea.

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