Rear window defroster unsoldered?

[zouch]

in a fraction of the energy it would take to deal with the logistics of getting the vehicle to the dealer and pay them to hopefully do it right, i did it myself using the same kit referenced in the TSB.
took far less time/money/effort, and even taking my time to try to do it as well as i could, was finished in relatively short order.

i got the Frost Fighter Rear Defroster Tab Bonding Kit from Amazon and after seeing how goobered up the button was, decided to splurge $11 and get their replacement button instead of trying to clean up the one i had.

(obviously, whoever/whatever did the soldering on these things when mine was built a few years ago was not doing a stellar job.)

looking at the state of the button makes me cringe thinking about how many other solder points in our vehicles might have been done this poorly.

i heeded the advice in the instructions to take advantage of heat to help cure the adhesive, using a heat gun to keep the window and button warm for about a half-hour; this took longer than the entire rest of the repair. trickiest part of the whole job was getting the old button out of the connector; i ended up having success using the tip of a pocket knife.

so far, so good!

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[Levi8than]

I can't remember if this is the 3rd or 4th time this has happened, but I'm definitely out of warranty now. Is there a real long-term fix now? Or is the dealership still doing epoxy kit (and now I read owner should add electric tape).

 

[Grateful1]

Anybody have this happen yet or am I just lucky? JLUS rear window defroster came unsoldered already, 4 months 2600 miles, very little off road? Rear window raised maybe dozen times at most, seems like a short life solder!!

Had it happen on my 2012 JKUS but at 50k and lots of off road!! Pain in the butt, dealer tried to re solder, crap job. Found a kit for repair with some kind of electrical epoxy compound, worked better but tricky.

Go Jeep!!!

2018 Sahara JLU (new) Happened this past fall, October 2023. My nephew noticed it before I did.

 

[Grateful1]

I can't remember if this is the 3rd or 4th time this has happened, but I'm definitely out of warranty now. Is there a real long-term fix now? Or is the dealership still doing epoxy kit (and now I read owner should add electric tape).

That is exactly how mine looks. Makes a guy feel good about his purchase.

 

[Grateful1]

Mine came off as well and its also leaking

Mine has a slight leak as well. Noticed it a couple years after buying new in 2018. Seems to becoming from the top portion. I can see water lines from the top of the inside of the glass. Not enough to make anything wet but annoying when you have a clean inside rear window. Use the wiper and it is clear except for the couple of water lines in the back window. I am thinking about getting a very thin piece of rubber. Stick it on the paint side so the squish together. I haven't found anything yet. May order a new gasket to replace. The dealer had to order new front door gaskets and windshield gasket. They had to replace the passenger door twice. When I complained to JeepCares about the front leaking and the $900 cost. They contacted the dealer and took care of the cost. I unfortunately forgot to mention the rear glass leak. Now the rear defrost came loose. Come on guys. You charge an arm and a leg for new vehicles with shitty workmanship. Makes it hard to be a loyal customer when little things like this happens. Owned a couple of Hondas. No issues.

 

[Pat’s Sahara Unlimited]

in a fraction of the energy it would take to deal with the logistics of getting the vehicle to the dealer and pay them to hopefully do it right, i did it myself using the same kit referenced in the TSB.
took far less time/money/effort, and even taking my time to try to do it as well as i could, was finished in relatively short order.

i got the Frost Fighter Rear Defroster Tab Bonding Kit from Amazon and after seeing how goobered up the button was, decided to splurge $11 and get their replacement button instead of trying to clean up the one i had.

(obviously, whoever/whatever did the soldering on these things when mine was built a few years ago was not doing a stellar job.)

looking at the state of the button makes me cringe thinking about how many other solder points in our vehicles might have been done this poorly.

i heeded the advice in the instructions to take advantage of heat to help cure the adhesive, using a heat gun to keep the window and button warm for about a half-hour; this took longer than the entire rest of the repair. trickiest part of the whole job was getting the old button out of the connector; i ended up having success using the tip of a pocket knife.

so far, so good!

2018 Sahara JLU (new) Happened this past fall, October 2023. My nephew noticed it before I did.

go back on pages 29 and 30 of this thread for a way to fix this. Seems to work well. the short story: clean the "button. on buy a new one at the same time you buy the conductive epoxy. solder this button on a well sanded (both side) penny or a bigger piece of copper, then gluing the penny on the glass using the epoxy. This will increase the sheering resistance from the bigger glued surface, will provide better current transfer from the weld and the glued surface (less heat at the connection point) and will lead to a more efficient defogger than it was originally. Heating the glass to 80F before gluing the penny or the big copper piece on the glass helps, keeping it warm for at least 30 min for it to cure effectively helps even more, and you put all the luck on your side if you put a space heater in the jeep if it's cold outside for at least 12 hours to keep the window warm (did that as I live in Canada). One last do not plug everything back before 24 hours.

 

[zouch]

i don't have anything left to fix. ?

we've seen you share some variation of this version of how to fit it several times already.
while i don't doubt that increasing the contact surface area couldn't hurt, i have to wonder how many of the people who have had the issue return repeatedly have actually been following through with the step to keep the temps up while things cure,..

go back on pages 29 and 30 of this thread for a way to fix this. Seems to work well. the short story: clean the "button. on buy a new one at the same time you buy the conductive epoxy. solder this button on a well sanded (both side) penny or a bigger piece of copper, then gluing the penny on the glass using the epoxy. This will increase the sheering resistance from the bigger glued surface, will provide better current transfer from the weld and the glued surface (less heat at the connection point) and will lead to a more efficient defogger than it was originally. Heating the glass to 80F before gluing the penny or the big copper piece on the glass helps, keeping it warm for at least 30 min for it to cure effectively helps even more, and you put all the luck on your side if you put a space heater in the jeep if it's cold outside for at least 12 hours to keep the window warm (did that as I live in Canada). One last do not plug everything back before 24 hours.

 

[Pat’s Sahara Unlimited]

i don't have anything left to fix. ?

we've seen you share some variation of this version of how to fit it several times already.
while i don't doubt that increasing the contact surface area couldn't hurt, i have to wonder how many of the people who have had the issue return repeatedly have actually been following through with the step to keep the temps up while things cure,..

Hey! I probably responded to the wrong guy - you did post that you fixed it! But to answer your point, I think that maybe a lot of dealer fix fails are due to bad curing… my two failed dealer fixes were done in winter time, when my Jeep sleeps outside. The dealer may have heated the glass for the install, but my jeep was out in the cold 45 min later…

 

[Jan2nellie2]

had this happen on my 2012 and 2018 the 12 had to replace the rear window at my cost three times because the dealer tried to fix and it fried it so it was replaced then a week later it smashed out again. had to replace at my cost again. then same on my 2018 the button came off they fixed it and a couple weeks later it smashed out one morning at work tried to say it was vandalism but I had it on video from our parking lot. this is not a new thing but Jeep tries to say oh this has not happened before. well it happened to me at least 4 times. it is a crappy connection but they will say it is your fault to get out of playing to replace.

Anybody have this happen yet or am I just lucky? JLUS rear window defroster came unsoldered already, 4 months 2600 miles, very little off road? Rear window raised maybe dozen times at most, seems like a short life solder!!

Had it happen on my 2012 JKUS but at 50k and lots of off road!! Pain in the butt, dealer tried to re solder, crap job. Found a kit for repair with some kind of electrical epoxy compound, worked better but tricky.

Go Jeep!!!

 

[MLC40]

This has happened to me THREE times! Is there seriously not a recall yet?

 

[Levi8than]

This has happened to me THREE times! Is there seriously not a recall yet?

My best guess is there will be no recall because
1. they believe it is not a safety issue.
2. it would cost them money and the current owners have ruined the Jeep name and just don't care about brand loyalty anymore
3. they don't have a better fix. Their fix will pop off exactly like the factory connection.

 

[zouch]

how exactly was it "fixed" in your cases?

This has happened to me THREE times! Is there seriously not a recall yet?

 

[Maverick909]

I tired to fix mine. it lasted a week fell off and i proceeded to remove the wire. hasnt fallen off since.

 

[DaltonGang]

They "Fixed " mine, several times. After the third time, I told them they needed to replace the window. That was several years ago, and it hasn't been an issue since. I also rarely use the defrost anymore. In fear the heat might make it Pop off.

 

[MLC40]

how exactly was it "fixed" in your cases?

The glass was replaced. Now, it’s being replaced again.

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