Rear Locker Issue In Wiring

[vr_fox]

I have the typical blinking LED locker status, I potted the sensors, also swapped front and rear sensors, and tested continuity from the outside still getting the flashing only on the back, I'm starting to suspect this is a wiring issue.

From people who have had issues with the wiring, what places do you have the faulting part? on the connector? close the fuse?

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[GATORB8]

Looks like sensor issues would be between the Drivetrain Control Module and the sensor, rather than from the power feed:

 

[Roky]

I’ve fixed a few of these, and if it was a wire issue it was always near the diff… either pinched/broken or the pins in the connector loose or broken…..does the locker still work even though it’s blinking ?

 

[vr_fox]

Yes, I do know the locker is correctly working. Also in use, I do know it works, when it connects is not flashing the LED, when disconnects it stays in flashing, and sometimes it goes off.

 

[GATORB8]

Yes, I do know the locker is correctly working. Also in use, I do know it works, when it connects is not flashing the LED, when disconnects it stays in flashing, and sometimes it goes off.

View attachment 845233

When my sensor went, I lost the ability to use lockers. If it's only on disco, any chance the ring is actually hanging?

 

[vr_fox]

@GATORB8 not sure what do you mean with the ring actually hanging, when is all on the jeep it works as expected locked

 

[GATORB8]

@GATORB8 not sure what do you mean with the ring actually hanging, when is all on the jeep it works as expected locked

I can't remember if it was on here, but I remember someone having an issue where the locker wasn't "releasing" if that makes sense. So it locked, but didn't necessarily unlock.

 

[vr_fox]

understand, it also unlocks correctly but stays flashing trying ti disconnect, but it is correctly disconnected.

locker connected -> no flashing
locker disconnected -> stays flashing and sometimes it goes off the light as correctly disconnected and goes on again after some random time (seconds)

 

[vr_fox]

Thank you @Roky, i'll pinch the cable from the back before the connectors and test the ends with some jiggle to see if continuity changes.

Yes the locker works as expected

@GATORB8, I'll check those connections, thanks for the schematic. Do you happen to know where is the module-drivetrain control? to check the cables up to there

 

[GATORB8]

Thank you @Roky, i'll pinch the cable from the back before the connectors and test the ends with some jiggle to see if continuity changes.

Yes the locker works as expected

@GATORB8, I'll check those connections, thanks for the schematic. Do you happen to know where is the module-drivetrain control? to check the cables up to there

Sounds like in the passenger rear interior quarter panel from the procedure.

 

[BDinTX]

Was the error blinking going on before you potted the sensor? If so, I believe the damage was already done and the sensor needs to be replaced.

 

[vr_fox]

@BDinTX wouldn't that change diff when I swapped front to back and back to front, cause the front still working correctly with both sensors and the back still erratically with both sensors

 

[BuffaloBill]

The sensor is a Hall-based one. There’s only two wires going to this sensor. The current level it consumes makes a step change in value depending on the position of the magnet to the sensor.

I don’t remember if the locked or the unlocked state produces the lesser current. We know that potting the sensors prevents metal-laden fluid from partially shorting out the circuit board in there, and you’ve already done this.

I wonder if metal-contaminated oil has entered the connector and/or wiring and could be causing the lesser current value to be slightly higher, such that the computer falsely interprets it as still being in the engaged position?

 

[vr_fox]

@BuffaloBill It is in voltage not in current, I'll check on the weekend with multimeter and oscilloscope the signaling on both lockers cables and compare, I'll report here what I have found, what feels weird is that swaping sensors doesn't change where is the issue, the sensor can be tested with a simple 12 volt power supply and with a metal or magnet move and check variances

Thank you @GATORB8 for that picture and guidance, just found in another thread more or less where is excatly located, have to take that side trim out from the rear and should be there, then i can check continuity from diff connector to the dtcm connector

 

[vr_fox]

@BuffaloBill about oil entering the connector with minerals, could be an option I cleaned everything with circuit cleaner liquid, but I will double check on this option

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