Question about Shock Compression / Extension with Relocation Brackets

[HighCountryJLU]

Hello, all. I have a 2021 JLUD with the front axle currently sitting on 1" TeraFlex spacers and JLURD springs. When measuring from tire-to-fender, it gave me about 2.5" of lift overall. I measured 21.38" eye-to-eye in the front when I was done. I purchased shocks based on the new measurements:

This gave me 44% compressed, 56% extended with the new shocks, which is pretty close to 40% compressed, 60% extended travel (which seems to be the gold standard around here). Unfortunately, when I took the thing in to get flex'd out, they noticed that the shocks would make contact with the frame if allowed to drop too far on either side. I have a swaybar disconnect from a Rubicon, so I can get some decent flex out of the thing. The shop recommended MetalCloak Outboard Shock Mount to move the shock further out to eliminate the chance of contact. There are two sets to choose from, model 7624 and model 7716. I reached out to MetalCloak to see what the difference is, and they said:

Thank you for asking. The 7624 is the one that moves the shock out and work with the narrow track axles. The 7716 is specific to the RockSport black and only works on the wider axles like the Rubicon’s have. The 7624 will change the lower height about 1”.​

I replied asking if they make a part I was missing to keep the total travel the same for the non-Rubicon, and they replied:

Unfortunately, there is not the room to outboard the shock without it being moved up to allow it to clear the brake caliper when you turn.​

So, my only option is to buy the 7624 and accept that I lose 1" of travel on the shocks I've already bought. I re-ran the numbers with the loss of the inch (20.38" eye-to-eye), and got this:

So, my question is, do you see anything concerning that I can't run the shocks I already put on this thing with the brackets that take 1" of my travel? The split is now 34% compressed, 66% extended. Am I going to bottom out or over-extend the shocks with these numbers? I understood the math to figure out my ratios, but not so much on the real-world applicability and consequences.

Thanks in advance.

Sponsored

 

[CloakedWillys]

With the extended length of the shock you are running there is no need to move the shock out. They should still clear the frame. We run 28.5-30.5" long front shocks in our kits and they make contact.

Just to line things back up you are only a 1" lift from a Rubicon which benchmark for most of the industry.

 

[HighCountryJLU]

With the extended length of the shock you are running there is no need to move the shock out. They should still clear the frame. We run 28.5-30.5" long front shocks in our kits and they make contact.

Just to line things back up you are only a 1" lift from a Rubicon which benchmark for most of the industry.

This is the photo they sent me of the contact being made when they picked her up with the forklift.

It was almost at full flex, but they said it had some room left to go and they stopped before it fully hit.

I did have removable sway bar endlinks installed (and in the removed state) at that time, and this is with them removed. With the Rubicon sway bar disconnect, will I get less travel and mitigate this issue?

 

[CloakedWillys]

It is just making contact with the boot or actually leveraging the body?

 

[HighCountryJLU]

It is just making contact with the boot or actually leveraging the body?

They said it would have made contact with the body of the shock if they continued lifting, but they stopped to not damage my shock before achieving full flex.

I'm really wondering if swapping to the Rubicon swaybar in it's disconnected state may be relevant. Maybe the disconnected links allowed more flex than I should have ever had, and now that I'm back closer to OEM, maybe I'd be ok.

 

[CloakedWillys]

They said it would have made contact with the body of the shock if they continued lifting, but they stopped to not damage my shock before achieving full flex.

I'm really wondering if swapping to the Rubicon swaybar in it's disconnected state may be relevant. Maybe the disconnected links allowed more flex than I should have ever had, and now that I'm back closer to OEM, maybe I'd be ok.

You would want to make sure it is not an issue offroad. The sway bar would be disconnected for that.

 

[HighCountryJLU]

You would want to make sure it is not an issue offroad. The sway bar would be disconnected for that.

I may not be picking up what you're saying, but I'll hazard my best guess

That is why I took it to get it flex'd out. I wanted to ensure it wouldn't be an issue offroad before I got out there (which I'm glad I did, because they insist it would hit the frame). Are you saying I should get it redone now that I've swapped from removable end links to the Rubicon disconnect?

 

[CloakedWillys]

There should be no difference between the manual disconnects and Rubicon electronic bar if the end links are the correct length.

 

[HighCountryJLU]

There should be no difference between the manual disconnects and Rubicon electronic bar if the end links are the correct length.

Got it. Sorry, thinking on the fly as I originally was on the shock train of thought, and now maybe the sway bar situation is relevant.

I had bought the Rock Krawler RK05185K Adjustable Links originally (which I absolutely do not recommend for a myriad of reasons, but I digress). I had them at their shortest, which is approximately 10" according to their site. I believe that is eye-to-eye.

I replaced them with the Mopar 68306981AB links (paired with the factory disconnect sway bar), which claim to be 7.5" stud-to-eye.

Logically, if I lost 2.5" of sway bar end length, and it was almost flex'd out when the shocks made contact originally, I should be good to go, right? I know the only way to ever know for sure is to go flex it. But with that much loss in travel, it would seemingly keep things in check?

 

[Roky]

If you have to use an outboard bracket, and you don’t want to raise the elevation of the shock, and you can’t use the 7716s then get the EVO brackets…. I ran them for a couple years, then switched to the 7716s when they came out…

I’m running long travel shocks and I liked how the MC bracket turned the shock eye 90 degrees…… here’s pic of EVOs on …..

 

[HighCountryJLU]

If you have to use an outboard bracket, and you don’t want to raise the elevation of the shock, and you can’t use the 7716s then get the EVO brackets…. I ran them for a couple years, then switched to the 7716s when they came out…

I’m running long travel shocks and I liked how the MC bracket turned the shock eye 90 degrees…… here’s pic of EVOs on …..

Do you have these on Rubicon or a non-Rubicon? Curious if the clearance issue MetalCloak refers to is valid here too.

 

[Roky]

Do you have these on Rubicon or a non-Rubicon? Curious if the clearance issue MetalCloak refers to is valid here too.

Here’s a link, look in the fitment section to be sure, but I think they work on all trims… mine is a Rubi though….

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...blQYvVSNgB8IO2Xdlo7HSHjqCMJ#confirmed_fitment

 

[HighCountryJLU]

Here’s a link, look in the fitment section to be sure, but I think they work on all trims… mine is a Rubi though….

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...blQYvVSNgB8IO2Xdlo7HSHjqCMJ#confirmed_fitment

Unfortunately, per EVO:

Thank you for bringing This to our attention. Narrow axles is not recommended.​

Still trying to figure this out. I went out and looked last night, and I can't see how the length of the end links matter in regards to how much flex I'm gonna get. The sway bar and the control arm both move independently, so the only thing the shorter end link does that I can tell is affect whether the sway bar itself is going to flip over. Someone please correct me if I'm missing a variable here.

I guess I'm back to the original question - is that 1" shorther eye-to-eye measurement that I'd end up with using the MetalCloak 7624 going to mess up my shock? Does the split of 34% compressed, 66% extended take too much travel out?

 

[CloakedWillys]

You will need to set the bump stops to ensure you do not bottom out the longer shock either way. The shock is longer than stock collapsed so the stock bump stops will not protect the shock. If you run the brackets you will need 1" additional to account for it. 2" bump over stock is what would be needed with the shock and bracket.

 

[Roky]

Unfortunately, per EVO:

Thank you for bringing This to our attention. Narrow axles is not recommended.​

Still trying to figure this out. I went out and looked last night, and I can't see how the length of the end links matter in regards to how much flex I'm gonna get. The sway bar and the control arm both move independently, so the only thing the shorter end link does that I can tell is affect whether the sway bar itself is going to flip over. Someone please correct me if I'm missing a variable here.

I guess I'm back to the original question - is that 1" shorther eye-to-eye measurement that I'd end up with using the MetalCloak 7624 going to mess up my shock? Does the split of 34% compressed, 66% extended take too much travel out?

This is good to know about the EVO brackets, thanks….. As for the sway bar links, you want them long enough so the sway bar doesn’t invert at full droop if you’re using the Rubi disco……Also by moving the shock shaft up, you’re increasing the droop so just make sure the spring is staying put, since it’s not a dual or triple rate spring….

I would take another look at just how hard the shock is hitting the frame, I don’t think it’s enough to worry over looking at the pic, but it’s hard to tell for sure…If it’s just touching the frame you’re fine….

Sponsored