Please delete

[Ratbert]

When my IBS went south the symptom was a series of messages about ESS not being available.

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[Bill_BCNtoNY]

So while poking around the internet, my favorite place to find detailed information about stuff I don't find on here, the ram forums, had my back.

At this point it looks like my battery isn't charging at all times, which is what this battery charging sensor does, it communicates with the PCM and tells it to activate alternator to charge up the battery, that's why our Wranglers have what they would call a smart alternator, it doesn't run at all times to save some gas, it just runs when the battery needs it.

According to the ram forums, when this part above goes bad it doesn't just go kablooey and it's dead, it starts working intermittently, which makes sense why I will start having battery issues a month ago and then my battery just goes to shit at the worst possible time.

I just ordered this guy off of RockAuto it should be here by Friday hopefully whether it's bad or not I'm going to swap it out and with all of the other things I'm doing that should be the number one fix. My dad's coming over Monday and he has a tester that we can run some tests on other parts like the alternator and the starter, but at this point the main issue seems to be the battery isn't getting the charging that it needs and this part right here is the number one culprit in those instances.

Before I get a plethora of fuse and canbus comments, my jeep was in anti-theft mode for sure, and I had a low voltage code which I could not wipe, I checked all the fuses, I checked the canbus, i replaced the battery, all the normal simple stuff that we all hear on here everyday.

I guess if you wanted to be frank, where I'm standing right now, it looks like it was a combination of this battery charging sensor, and a weakening battery, combined with anti-theft mode and a low voltage code that I couldn't clear. And then, just some absolutely fucking terrible timing!!

But again I'm still early in the process so we'll see what happens

Curious about this sensor and how/whether the “smart” alternator is a(nother in the long list of) fuel efficiency/reliability tradeoff like the Stop/Start aux battery stuff…

would finding a way around it/bypassing it take out a failure point in our Jeeps? Is there a downside to an old-school setup of always-running alternator (besides the slight increased fuel consumpion)?

If anyone here thinks there is sth to this, happy to re-post on QTDDOT!

 

[yokramer]

When my IBS went south the symptom was a series of messages about ESS not being available.

IBS tends to go south real quick for sure.

 

[Ratbert]

IBS tends to go south real quick for sure.

I'm pretty sure people here tend to ignore those messages. I only paid attention to them due to my impending end of warranty. They eventually tracked it down to a faulty IBS instead of (what I expected them to find) a failing aux battery.

 

[Ratbert]

Yeah that's basically what mine has been doing for like the last couple months and I've just been ignoring it thinking it was normal.

Yeah, that's what I was wondering. We've trained ourselves into thinking that thing is stupid, so we tend to ignore those messages. Doh.

 

[yokramer]

I'm pretty sure people here tend to ignore those messages. I only paid attention to them due to my impending end of warranty. They eventually tracked it down to a faulty IBS instead of (what I expected them to find) a failing aux battery.

Not sure what most people expect a dealer to do for their IBS that their doctor cant so that may be why its not figured out

 

[Ratbert]

Not sure what most people expect a dealer to do for their IBS that their doctor cant so that may be why its not figured out

Mine was replaced under warranty. No need for the shit that @Tredsdert went through.

 

[yokramer]

Mine was replaced under warranty. No need for the shit that @Tredsdert went through.

 

[Mx5red]

Jesus it looks like you just avoided an engine fire!

 

[Flip]

Was reading about the N-fuse rail / main fuse on here earlier today, and decided for $50 it would be worth it to replace that as well. Also too there's this...

So the alternator positive cable goes to fuse n7 (300amps) and then from there I don't know exactly where it goes, but eventually it ends up on the left side corroded terminal you see there in the photo above. That wire right at the end there is hot as hell.

I just ordered a new positive and negative three prong connectors for my battery and I will be replacing that burnt to shit wire, along with the three prong positive battery connector.

As an added bonus, whether it's needed or not I'm going to be replacing the main fuse (rail), along with the IBS sensor. On top of all the money I've already spent.

My dad showed me how to do this, and I do have a voltmeter at home, so I tested the battery at the terminals when the vehicle was off, I got 12 volts, and then I tested it again once the vehicle was on, and I got 13 volts, so according to my dad the alternator is in fact charging the battery a little bit, the dash in that moment also stated 13.6 volts coming from the battery.

Eh, it's a learning curve!

Just curious, what's a 4 door Eagle I'm seeing there on the rock auto page?

 

[grandsrus]

One of the main reasons why I want to do a engine swap to a Cummins 59 is because it allows me to completely wipe out the Wranglers electronics. Literally do a 1986 electronic system with a 1986 engine.

At this point I'm not going to try and find a workaround, like I said I need this thing to be reliable until I have a backup vehicle, but once I have a backup vehicle, honestly without disabling it through a PCM tune and switching out the alternator, I don't see how you could do it. And honestly the way these engines and computers work nowadays I feel like it would cause other issues. Everything seems to be tied together in some way or form.

I would buy a trashed out JL before i dismembered your jeep. Oh wait, you have already done this......

 

[gsbrockman]

No drama, just stress.

Again there's a lot of the story that I haven't even told yet, and realistically none of y'all other than maybe one person on here actually has a decent understanding of the time frame and how this whole process has gone down.

It was the fucking SeaFoam…..wasn’t it?

 

[20-Willys]

The heat from the additional current likely has something to do with why that one lug did that. It would be worth having a good look around. I'm not sure that one lug got corroded when everything around it didn't.

 

[Flip]

In prep for tomorrow morning I already stripped this guy...

There you go, that answers that! Clean copper behind the corroded lug!!

I think I'm going to replace the IBS just in case, and then after we get it started, I'll look and see if the main fuse is still good. I'm sure it is, I mean this thing wouldn't be getting hot if the fuse was bad, that's for sure!

I hope you get it fixed, you without a jeep is like taking the Z out of Zamboni! Capture the dream bro.

 

[TheNewGuy]

In prep for tomorrow morning I already stripped this guy...

There you go, that answers that! Clean copper behind the corroded lug!!

I think I'm going to replace the IBS just in case, and then after we get it started, I'll look and see if the main fuse is still good. I'm sure it is, I mean this thing wouldn't be getting hot if the fuse was bad, that's for sure!

Did you ever put in the correct 10A fuse for F42?
If not, using an incorrect fuse could definitely fry a connector like that. Just a thought.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ncement-one-mod-at-a-time.106122/post-2762502

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