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Oil down a quart after 3000 miles

Kanueh

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The person that mentioned low tension piston rings is BANG ON. With the higher compression in GDI engines and the injector being in the combustion chamber and the low tension piston rings, everything burns oil and it’s only “normal” because it was designed with those parts to improve gas mileage.

2 things I do and I have a 2023 with 38,000 km (23,612 miles).
  1. Install a quality oil Catch Can. I always go with Mishimoto. They come with the factory connection replacement hoses to put them in line.
  2. Every oil change I run the BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) Service. This does an amazing job of freeeing up the piston rings and restoring compression. This restores Power, Performance and Fuel Economy. The part number is 109 but the full kit with an oil conditioner and a fuel cleaner is K6577. Find dealer or independent in your area that sells it and have them do it with your next oil change. Depending on the KM you may need to do it two oil changes in a row but I’d recommend every oil change. With doing this I have next to ZERO oil consumption and the only thing in the catch can is normally moisture.
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swampflyer

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I change my oil every 5 thousand miles or less. Got one coming up,#4 I’ve shown no oil use or nil. So I guess it’s different for some. 😎
 

dabolay

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The person that mentioned low tension piston rings is BANG ON. With the higher compression in GDI engines and the injector being in the combustion chamber and the low tension piston rings, everything burns oil and it’s only “normal” because it was designed with those parts to improve gas mileage.

2 things I do and I have a 2023 with 38,000 km (23,612 miles).
  1. Install a quality oil Catch Can. I always go with Mishimoto. They come with the factory connection replacement hoses to put them in line.
  2. Every oil change I run the BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) Service. This does an amazing job of freeeing up the piston rings and restoring compression. This restores Power, Performance and Fuel Economy. The part number is 109 but the full kit with an oil conditioner and a fuel cleaner is K6577. Find dealer or independent in your area that sells it and have them do it with your next oil change. Depending on the KM you may need to do it two oil changes in a row but I’d recommend every oil change. With doing this I have next to ZERO oil consumption and the only thing in the catch can is normally moisture.
I do the same and have done so since purchasing my JL new. EPR, MOA, and air & oil filters at every oil change. 44K per BG use instructions. Using 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum Ultra.
 

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Jeep 5150 2112

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Thank your low tension piston rings used to lower friction (and increase blow by) to achieve CAFE standards. Anything less than a perfect seal and oil gets in the cylinders.
Sounds like an expensive fix.
 
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Jeep 5150 2112

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The person that mentioned low tension piston rings is BANG ON. With the higher compression in GDI engines and the injector being in the combustion chamber and the low tension piston rings, everything burns oil and it’s only “normal” because it was designed with those parts to improve gas mileage.

2 things I do and I have a 2023 with 38,000 km (23,612 miles).
  1. Install a quality oil Catch Can. I always go with Mishimoto. They come with the factory connection replacement hoses to put them in line.
  2. Every oil change I run the BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) Service. This does an amazing job of freeeing up the piston rings and restoring compression. This restores Power, Performance and Fuel Economy. The part number is 109 but the full kit with an oil conditioner and a fuel cleaner is K6577. Find dealer or independent in your area that sells it and have them do it with your next oil change. Depending on the KM you may need to do it two oil changes in a row but I’d recommend every oil change. With doing this I have next to ZERO oil consumption and the only thing in the catch can is normally moisture.
Thank you
 

Dusty Dude

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Sounds like an expensive fix.
Agreed. Oil is cheap in comparison, you just have to keep it in your preventative maintenance schedule. 30+ quarts in 100k miles, so around $150-$300.
 

Heimkehr

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Agreed. Oil is cheap in comparison, you just have to keep it in your preventative maintenance schedule. 30+ quarts in 100k miles, so around $150-$300.
Yep. Similar debates occur in the riding community as it concerns brake pads being considerably less expensive, and easier to install, than are clutch kits that require premature replacement when relying too much on engine braking to slow down.

Yes, rev matching is nice, but don't accelerate engine component wear unnecessarily.
 

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2019JLUR

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I know you said you looked underneath and no mess... did you borescope under the OFH to make sure the valley isn't full of your missing oil? Just went through an OFH replacement earlier this year and I was amazed how much oil the central valley can hold before it starts to run down the back of the engine and make a mess. Also, did you use the most recent version of the OEM OFH? or the Dorman all aluminum unit. I have read more than a few Dorman units were defective out of the box. and Mopar keeps changing the version number on the OEM replacement to supposedly keep fixing leakage issues. Dont flame me for this, honest question, did you wait at least an hour on level ground, or better yet check cold - early on I didn't realize how much oil the 3.6 holds up top before it slowly gets down to the pan.
 
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jadmt

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changed oil yesterday at ~3000 miles..they were pretty hard 3000 miles a trip to moab with several trails run and to Colorado and back home to Montana..much of it was high RPMs on the highway 3500-5000 RPMs was common...speed limits for most of the trip were 75-80mph so not uncommon to be running 85mph. When traveling to Utah and Colorado from Montana you are doing a lot of climbing so much of it was 4, 5 and 6 gears.. I changed right before I left so all the miles were from this trip. I did take an oil sample so a few ounces there and I inadvertently spilled some because I did not have my drain pan placed correctly but not a lot but a couple ounces and a bit of residual left over in the drain pan. anyway this what I got out of my 3.6 with just over 14,000 miles...I marked the jug's level before opening it so you can see did not really burn anything as the filter has to soak up some oil altho not sure how much.. I should have weighed the filter and could have figured it out but too late for that..

Jeep Wrangler JL Oil down a quart after 3000 miles tempImageanNjsE
 
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Jeep 5150 2112

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I know you said you looked underneath and no mess... did you borescope under the OFH to make sure the valley isn't full of your missing oil? Just went through an OFH replacement earlier this year and I was amazed how much oil the central valley can hold before it starts to run down the back of the engine and make a mess. Also, did you use the most recent version of the OEM OFH? or the Dorman all aluminum unit. I have read more than a few Dorman units were defective out of the box. and Mopar keeps changing the version number on the OEM replacement to supposedly keep fixing leakage issues. Dont flame me for this, honest question, did you wait at least an hour on level ground, or better yet check cold - early on I didn't realize how much oil the 3.6 holds up top before it slowly gets down to the pan.
I had the dealer do the change so it should be OEM from them and the oil filter housing. It does hold a lot of the top so I let it sit overnight before I do my checks. I did not get in there and check that deeply for leaks but I did bring it into the dealer and they said they saw nothing. I'm still under warranty I have the extended warranty but I don't know how that's going to work for me either thanks
 

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Standard oil check should be done around 5 minutes after shutdown of the engine, if you wait over night you will be overfull, FYI
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