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SPR Pumpkin Rubi

SPR Pumpkin Rubi

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Assuming there is no jumper installed for N1 loads, it seems pretty clear, because N1 loads are activated before the start failure, that the high amp fuse array (particularly N3) is intact.
I don't have any jumpers that I'm using, and I bought it new.
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Rhinebeck01

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@SPR Pumpkin Rubi

On your current high amp fuse array, move N3 to N4 (as long as nothing is attached to N4) ....What happens now?

This video will give you eyes on in regard to the high amp fuse array and where N3 is and N4 post.

Also will give you and other's the how to info in regard to testing the fuses in the high amp fuse array..

 

58Willys

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I would agree, but it's a new battery that I've also charged. I know new batteries can be bad as well.
Randomly it will crank with no struggle, but other times it will do nothing. Im not continually charging the battery, so that has me wondering if there is a short somewhere. On the JT forum, there was a guy who had codes similar to mine and replaced that fuse array. Seemed to fix the issue, so I'm hoping it might fix mine as well.
The first step in diagnosing issues like this is to load test the battery, at least to eliminate this as a cause. Next step, check all grounds, preferably with a voltage drop test. If that’s good, systematically check for voltage at the starter and work back from there.

Do you have a wiring diagram? There are wiring diagrams in the electrical forum on here.
 

Wabujitsu

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I would agree, but it's a new battery that I've also charged. I know new batteries can be bad as well.
Randomly it will crank with no struggle, but other times it will do nothing. Im not continually charging the battery, so that has me wondering if there is a short somewhere. On the JT forum, there was a guy who had codes similar to mine and replaced that fuse array. Seemed to fix the issue, so I'm hoping it might fix mine as well.
Thank you and my apologies; I missed that. Still, it’s an easy, cheap thing to load-test it. I know it seems counterintuitive to test it as it’s new, but it’s estimated that up to 7% of all new auto batteries are bad off the shelf.

I wouldn’t change the order of diagnostics just because the battery is new. As a previous poster said, start with the battery, then the alternator, and work back from there.

Please keep us posted; I hope you can resolve this cheaply and quickly!
 

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Try moving the N3 terminal as suggested. I would also start suspecting the BCM (body control module) as this is part of the keyless start system. You might get lucky with a hard reset, disconnect both batteries for 10 minutes and then try again.
 

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Well....more problems.

I pulled the fuse and the negative wire, but nothing happened. Put a battery charger on just to see what would happened but did not start.

I sat there playing with the start button a bunch and every now and then I would get starter protection mode displayed but it never attempted to start. Frustrated, I put the seat belt on then hit the start button and it ran. I thought everything was good, so I let it run while I put things away. I turned it off to see if it would run again and no crank.

I let the Tazer run and it fixed up some codes:
First run: P141d, P058b, P058C
Cleared and Second run: U0168
Clear and Third run: P141D (crank position sensor)

Weird thing, the radio did some kind of reset. At the bottom of there are short cuts, and I'm missing one because they use to go across the bottom of the screen and it's short one now (can't remember what's missing). I no longer have the option for satellite radio either.

I guess I'll start with a crank sensor, but no idea with the radio.

Any thoughts?
Jesus Christ stop touching your jeep.
 

mwilk012

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Replace the aux battery and check to see which fuses you blew when you started jacking with wiring because of a forum. This whole fuse 42 thing is the dumbest shit this forum ever came up with. You very likely blew fuse N3.
 

Bob Burd

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Replace the aux battery and check to see which fuses you blew when you started jacking with wiring because of a forum. This whole fuse 42 thing is the dumbest shit this forum ever came up with. You very likely blew fuse N3.
Respectfully disagree. I went through 3 aux batteries in 1st 4yrs on 2018. Removing fuse 42 and aux battery just works better.
Yes, you need to know what you're doing to not blow the high amp fuse array.
 
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SPR Pumpkin Rubi

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I'm going to follow up on this:

I ordered the high amp fuses, and that fixed my starting issue. I also replaced the crank sensor since it kept popping up at the same time. I drove it after replacing both only for it skip and constantly turn over before starting. I cleared the code a couple times to make sure the crank sensor was still an issue after placing it. Pulled the new sensor and replaced it again, and for the last few days it has been playing nice. I haven't been in a hurry to fix the Jeep.

Interesting enough, it seems like the little stop start battery has gained some like back into since I don't have to stare at that christmas light anymore.

Now it's time to rebuild all the Johnny Joints.
 

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If you replaced the crank position sensor, you’ll need to run crank position sensor relearn proceedure.
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