No Start Issue

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

I have a 2018 JLUR with 73k miles, and there is no start at all. Here is what I know.

- Parked on Wednesday, Friday I went to start it and did nothing. I thought it was the battery because of miles and age, and I charged it back to life once before
- Battery was replaced today and everything inside works.
- This is an auto, and when pressing the brake pedal and hitting start, nothing happens. The check engine light blinks and that's it (other than the dash works, radio, etc).
- There are no codes when I checked
- Key Fob isn't dead as it works just fine
- When you hit acc button, you can hear the full pump run
- Aux battery has been dead for YEARS and it hasn't killed the main battery

Thoughts? It's annoying.

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[Rhinebeck01]

I have a 2018 JLUR with 73k miles, and there is no start at all. Here is what I know.

- Parked on Wednesday, Friday I went to start it and did nothing. I thought it was the battery because of miles and age, and I charged it back to life once before
- Battery was replaced today and everything inside works.
- This is an auto, and when pressing the brake pedal and hitting start, nothing happens. The check engine light blinks and that's it (other than the dash works, radio, etc).
- There are no codes when I checked
- Key Fob isn't dead as it works just fine
- When you hit acc button, you can hear the full pump run
- Aux battery has been dead for YEARS and it hasn't killed the main battery

Thoughts? It's annoying.

@SPR Pumpkin Rubi

I see you have a 2018 JL ....

Well, you need to do some some forum research so you learn more about your 2018 JL...

Unfortunately, I do not have the time to type all the needed info out here in this thread. I have provided the info in other forum threads since 2018.

Anyway ....... A 2018 JL assembled early in the 2018 model year, deals with a depleted Aux battery differently then JL's assembled after that time.. On many early model year 2018's, if the Aux battery is depleted/dead, the 2018 JL will not try to start. Again, it will not try to start.

2019 and newer JL's left the factory with a pcm update, and thanks to that update.... the JL if the Aux battery is depleted, will make a 2nd start attempt. You can have this pcm update performed on your 2018 JL.

Your saying, "Aux battery has been dead for YEARS and it hasn't killed the main battery" Aux battery was not actually dead but just low on voltage so ESS was not working.. NOW, Friday the Aux battery was dead and since the Aux is dead your particular 2018 JL will not try to start.

Again do forum search... What you can do to remedy the no start situation quickly is to be sure your Main battery is fully charged and then do do the Aux battery bypass. Do this and if my guesstimate as to why your JL is faced with this situation is on the money, your JL will start right up.

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[munkeymike]

I know you don't think it's the aux, but it takes like 3 minutes to remove the aux negative terminal from the battery and pull the correct fuse and test to make sure.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

Yes, only takes only about 3 min. to do the Jumperless Aux battery bypass..

OP @SPR Pumpkin Rubi should read here..
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/

He will find out that he needs to pull Fuse 42 in the power distribution center (PDC) and also disconnect the Aux neg cable on the Main battery negative terminal.

On his particular 2018 JL, the Aux negative cable he wants to disconnect the thicker of the 2 black cloth wrapped cable there. The cable to be disconnected, will be the cable closest to him as he leans over the passenger side fender.

.

I apologize. I did read and used google, but I thought since the Aux had been "dead" for so long that it no longer had any effect. I knew there was a bypass, but didn't think it was necessary since I had a tazor and it has had no effect on anything in years. I did not realize that it had some voltage, but lost all power thus creating a potential no start situation. I did not come across this information in my search.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I know you don't think it's the aux, but it takes like 3 minutes to remove the aux negative terminal from the battery and pull the correct fuse and test to make sure.

Yes, only takes only about 3 min. to do the Jumperless Aux battery bypass..

OP @SPR Pumpkin Rubi should read here..
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/

He will find out that he needs to pull Fuse 42 in the power distribution center (PDC) and also disconnect the Aux neg cable on the Main battery negative terminal.

On his particular 2018 JL, the cable he wants to disconnect is the thicker of the 2 black cloth wrapped cables attached to the Main battery's negative terminal.. The cable to be disconnected, will be the cable closest to him as he leans over the passenger side fender.

.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I apologize. I did read and used google, but I thought since the Aux had been "dead" for so long that it no longer had any effect. I knew there was a bypass, but didn't think it was necessary since I had a tazor and it has had no effect on anything in years. I did not realize that it had some voltage, but lost all power thus creating a potential no start situation. I did not come across this information in my search.

@SPR Pumpkin Rubi

I hear ya.... Do as I explained and you should be good to go. Let us know how you do...

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

@SPR Pumpkin Rubi

I hear ya.... Do as I explained and you should be good to go. Let us know how you do...

Well....more problems.

I pulled the fuse and the negative wire, but nothing happened. Put a battery charger on just to see what would happened but did not start.

I sat there playing with the start button a bunch and every now and then I would get starter protection mode displayed but it never attempted to start. Frustrated, I put the seat belt on then hit the start button and it ran. I thought everything was good, so I let it run while I put things away. I turned it off to see if it would run again and no crank.

I let the Tazer run and it fixed up some codes:
First run: P141d, P058b, P058C
Cleared and Second run: U0168
Clear and Third run: P141D (crank position sensor)

Weird thing, the radio did some kind of reset. At the bottom of there are short cuts, and I'm missing one because they use to go across the bottom of the screen and it's short one now (can't remember what's missing). I no longer have the option for satellite radio either.

I guess I'll start with a crank sensor, but no idea with the radio.

Any thoughts?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

.

Well....more problems.

I pulled the fuse and the negative wire, but nothing happened. Put a battery charger on just to see what would happened but did not start.

I sat there playing with the start button a bunch and every now and then I would get starter protection mode displayed but it never attempted to start. Frustrated, I put the seat belt on then hit the start button and it ran. I thought everything was good, so I let it run while I put things away. I turned it off to see if it would run again and no crank.

I let the Tazer run and it fixed up some codes:
First run: P141d, P058b, P058C
Cleared and Second run: U0168
Clear and Third run: P141D (crank position sensor)

Weird thing, the radio did some kind of reset. At the bottom of there are short cuts, and I'm missing one because they use to go across the bottom of the screen and it's short one now (can't remember what's missing). I no longer have the option for satellite radio either.

I guess I'll start with a crank sensor, but no idea with the radio.

Any thoughts?

Not what you have going on. Not sure how to take your comment .." put a charger on".

As for loss of XM and the " radio thing", that is typical when you do a 12v power kill on a JL. All will come back after driving for a day or so.

Be sure your Main battery is fully charged.

Not that the Tazer JL has anything to do with this but suggest you unmarry and remove Tazer JL while you have 12v so you actually can unmarry. Just in case it needs to go to dealership.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

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Not what you have going on. Not sure how to take your comment .." put a charger on".

As for loss of XM and the " radio thing", that is typical when you do a 12v power kill on a JL. All will come back after driving for a day or so.

Be sure your Main battery is fully charged.

Not that the Tazer JL has anything to do with this but suggest you unmarry and remove Tazer JL while you have 12v so you actually can unmarry. Just in case it needs to go to dealership.

I didn't think the battery was fully charged, so I put a charger on it for a little while while I was doing everything earlier. It's possible that it doesn't have enough volts to crank the Jeep, but why would the Crank sensor keep showing as a fault?

I'll let the battery charge for a while and see what happens. If it doesn't crank after that, I'll see what codes show then.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

.

Not what you have going on. Not sure how to take your comment .." put a charger on".

As for loss of XM and the " radio thing", that is typical when you do a 12v power kill on a JL. All will come back after driving for a day or so.

Be sure your Main battery is fully charged.

Not that the Tazer JL has anything to do with this but suggest you unmarry and remove Tazer JL while you have 12v so you actually can unmarry. Just in case it needs to go to dealership.

I replaced the crank sensor since it kept showing up and it wasn't that expensive. Replaced that, and it fired right up. I let it idle for 15 minutes or so. Turned it off and tried restarting but did nothing. Unmarried the tazor, disconnected the battery for a while, and made no difference.

The only consistent code I'm getting is p141d, and that code has shown up since the beginning.

Doing some reading and it looks like a short and this may fix it: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/68368853aa-mopar-oem-z-case-fuse-array
I do not have the tow option, so the 60 Amp would be correct.

Thoughts?

 

[Wabujitsu]

I would have your main battery load-tested. A bad aux battery will kill your main over time. The main may have the right amount of volts, but not enough amperage. A nearly-dead battery will act the way you described - it may start on one crank, and then nothing in subsequent cranks, as the resting battery *may* have built up enough amps for that one successful crank only, due to reserve amperage being depleted.

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can evaluate the legitimacy of my opinion.

 

[58Willys]

I would have your main battery load-tested. A bad aux battery will kill your main over time. The main may have the right amount of volts, but not enough amperage. A nearly-dead battery will act the way you described - it may start on one crank, and then nothing in subsequent cranks, as the resting battery *may* have built up enough amps for that one successful crank only, due to reserve amperage being depleted.

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can evaluate the legitimacy of my opinion.

Follow this advice.

 

[Wabujitsu]

Follow this advice.

Thanks Geoff. I want to add, for the OP: make certain your battery is PROPERLY load-tested. Evaluating the cold crank amperage alone is not sufficient. The battery MUST be put under load.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

Thanks Geoff. I want to add, for the OP: make certain your battery is PROPERLY load-tested. Evaluating the cold crank amperage alone is not sufficient. The battery MUST be put under load.

Thanks Geoff. I want to add, for the OP: make certain your battery is PROPERLY load-tested. Evaluating the cold crank amperage alone is not sufficient. The battery MUST be put under load.

I would agree, but it's a new battery that I've also charged. I know new batteries can be bad as well.
Randomly it will crank with no struggle, but other times it will do nothing. Im not continually charging the battery, so that has me wondering if there is a short somewhere. On the JT forum, there was a guy who had codes similar to mine and replaced that fuse array. Seemed to fix the issue, so I'm hoping it might fix mine as well.

 

[Mguy]

I would have your main battery load-tested. A bad aux battery will kill your main over time. The main may have the right amount of volts, but not enough amperage. A nearly-dead battery will act the way you described - it may start on one crank, and then nothing in subsequent cranks, as the resting battery *may* have built up enough amps for that one successful crank only, due to reserve amperage being depleted.

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can evaluate the legitimacy of my opinion.

Generally good advice, particularly about near dead battery behavior, but the OP said in first post that he just installed a new (main) battery. His subsequent posts say it may not have been fully charged, which is definitely the case for at least some new batteries. Less common are new batteries damaged by sitting on a store shelf too long in an uncharged state. And still less common is a defective new battery.

So, it seems most likely that getting the OP's new battery up to full charge, and having the IBS do it's new battery "learning," should be the focus.

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