New Stereo Install

[BIGRIGMCGEE]

I just did the driver side today, I mounted it to the side of the speaker pod, pics below. The pod barely fits in there, it was a pain in the ass to get in and out. What I had to do was pre-drill the holes to mount the crossover, then get the pod in place, then get all the wires into the crossover then use a short stubby screwdriver to attach it to the pod with the pod in place.

Impressive! Not sure there's any other option... Worst case I'm thinking suspended zip ties. Definitely taking every bit of the dash off so I have some room to work with. Thx for the reply and pics

Sponsored

 

[Grendel602]

The VXI is overkill if you are still running a cross over. DSP's are best when running an active setup without cross overs. Also, the sound bar is just fill. You can save money not even running speakers in the sound bar or at a minimum not putting a lot of money into it. Think of it like a concert. How many concerts have you been to with speakers over and behind your head?

 

[Fa1321tx]

Any reason you chose the PAC interface?

I have had the same question as to why so many people are choosing the PAC 4? From a budget & feature standpoint the DSR1 seems like a better choice as it not only gives you a clean signal, the RF 363 DSP, and an app allowing you to fine tune 254 frequency bands . I am in the process of installing my DSR1 and will provide feedback soon. I had the full size RF 363 in another vehicle and I always got questions and compliments on the sound quality.

 

[Grendel602]

I have had the same question as to why so many people are choosing the PAC 4? From a budget & feature standpoint the DSR1 seems like a better choice as it not only gives you a clean signal, the RF 363 DSP, and an app allowing you to fine tune 254 frequency bands . I am in the process of installing my DSR1 and will provide feedback soon. I had the full size RF 363 in another vehicle and I always got questions and compliments on the sound quality.

I think the issue is the ease of use on the PAC4. You don't have to splice into any wiring harnesses or tap into speaker lines. I don't believe the DSR1 comes with a module to connect up directly to the factory wiring harness like the PAC4?

 

[Fa1321tx]

I think the issue is the ease of use on the PAC4. You don't have to splice into any wiring harnesses or tap into speaker lines. I don't believe the DSR1 comes with a module to connect up directly to the factory wiring harness like the PAC4?

No splicing required https://maestro.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/853/project/ar

 

[Grendel602]

No splicing required https://maestro.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/853/project/ar

That harness is for w/o factory amp? What is the part number if you have factory alpine amp?

 

[Fa1321tx]

That harness is for w/o factory amp? What is the part number if you have factory alpine amp?

Its the aCH4 T harness
https://maestro.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/768/project/ar

Just go here and input your vehicle to get all the info
https://maestro.idatalink.com/maestro/

It does require some front end work you have 3 things to flash 1. Vehicle information 2. The module ( updates Bluetooth )
3. Rockford Fosgate firmware.

This requires installing weblink software and DSR1 updater from RF. Every time I called the number included on in the box and idatalink answered any questions I had.

 

[Fa1321tx]

DSR1 is so small it fits nicely under the steering wheel. I just used some scrap wood and made a small shelf for it to rest. This seems like a good spot to access it in the future if it needs to be reflashed or updated.

 

[Gaust]

DSR1 is so small it fits nicely under the steering wheel. I just used some scrap wood and made a small shelf for it to rest. This seems like a good spot to access it in the future if it needs to be reflashed or updated.

Nice location for the DSR1. I’ve got the same DSP and have been collecting equipment for my install. Does the adapter harness plug in at the back of the OEM radio? I was going to make my own under seat amp rack. I can’t see spending $250 for a single rack that I could make for under $50 with some flat bar and expanded pvc.

 

[Gaust]

I'm about to post a very similar thread and document my build, I have a question on your 3-ways: Where do you plan on keeping the external crossover? I'm looking at the Focal PS-165F3 for up front, and I'm trying to figure out where I'll keep the crossovers. Perhaps under the driver seat?

If you have a DSP I’d definitely suggest ditching the crossovers and going active with the speakers. It gives you the ability to adjust each speaker for time alignment, crossovers, level, phase, eq, etc! Much more control over the sound and you can set up individual profiles in most DSP units. It takes some time to set up but will definitely be worth it if you’re after Sound quality. I plan on having at least a driver’s sq, front seat sq, top off, doors off, and rear speaker.

 

[Fa1321tx]

Nice location for the DSR1. I’ve got the same DSP and have been collecting equipment for my install. Does the adapter harness plug in at the back of the OEM radio? I was going to make my own under seat amp rack. I can’t see spending $250 for a single rack that I could make for under $50 with some flat bar and expanded pvc.

You have to buy a vehicle specific T-Harness from idatalink for a Jeep without the premium system its a dCH3 if you do have the premium its the aCH4.

If you have a DSP I’d definitely suggest ditching the crossovers and going active with the speakers. It gives you the ability to adjust each speaker for time alignment, crossovers, level, phase, eq, etc! Much more control over the sound and you can set up individual profiles in most DSP units. It takes some time to set up but will definitely be worth it if you’re after Sound quality. I plan on having at least a driver’s sq, front seat sq, top off, doors off, and rear speaker.

Man I wish I would of done that now that you said that about the time alignment. I used the crossovers because I did not have a 6 channel amp. But the way I did it I can easily separate the tweeter. The only possible issue is I installed the crossover inside the speaker pod but that shouldn't cause an issue with alignment. But my woofer frequencies will not operate outside of the crossovers settings. If it is detrimental to my sound I could remove the crossover if I feel like disassembling the entire dash again.

I was considering just running a 5 channel amp but guess 6 would be better for sound quality. Any suggestions on a 6 amp that would fit well under the seat?

If you think that amp rack is expensive (I agree) the JL stealth boxes are stupid expensive but they look amazing. I have a RF 10" shallow mount and a punch amp I would like to use. I just have not found another subwoofer mounting solution I like as much as the JL stealthbox.

 

[Gaust]

After looking at amplifiers I decided to go with two amps, possibly adding a third later for the rear speakers. I’m going with an active 3 way system up front, a JL 10tw3 subwoofer, and will be building a fiberglass box in the same location as the JL stealth box. The JL box does look very nice but is expensive. Most of the newer D class amps are small enough to fit under the seats. With a little work I should be able to fit both my amps under one seat.
I’d suggest removing the crossover completely if you have enough channels to run all the speakers you have. Tweeters don’t need a bunch of power so you could use a 5 channel amp, 4 channels to the 6.5” speakers, and a small 2 channel 25-50 watts to run the tweeters up front.

 

[Fa1321tx]

I decided to go with a JL 10tw3 subwoofer, and will be building a fiberglass box in the same location as the JL stealth box. The JL box does look very nice but is expensive.
I’d suggest removing the crossover completely if you have enough channels to run all the speakers you have. Tweeters don’t need a bunch of power so you could use a 5 channel amp, 4 channels to the 6.5” speakers, and a small 2 channel 25-50 watts to run the tweeters up front.

I have a nice punch mono amp but it would be easier to install a 5 channel for Knee & Roll + Sub then add a small amp for the tweeters & remove the crossovers. I need to do this in phases so right now I need to pick an amp and figure out a good solution for my subwoofer. My fiberglass skills are weak at best and I would probably not be happy with outcome of my glass work.

 

[Gaust]

Since you have the crossovers hooked up you could definitely add amps in phases. You could run a 5 channel and a small 2 channel for the tweeters or a 4 channel bridged to the knee speakers. I’m going to use an Alpine Pdr-v75 5 channel. It’s a very small amp for the amount of power it produces. I’ll probably replace my old school amp eventually with a smaller D class 4, 5 or, 6 channel. I’m tempted to get a second Alpine, bridge one of them for the front knee speakers 200 watts x 2, 350 watts to the subwoofer, the other 75 x 4 to the midrange and tweeters. I’d also have another subwoofer channel available if I wanted to add a second JL 10tw3. I don’t mind changing speakers, tweaking, testing equipment etc..
You could build a down fire box in the back, up against the rear seats. Fiberglass work isn’t as hard as most people think it is. I’d watch some videos and see if it’s something you’d feel comfortable trying. If you decide to try it make sure you cover everything very well. Resin will stick to everything!

 

[Fa1321tx]

Since you have the crossovers hooked up you could definitely add amps in phases. You could run a 5 channel and a small 2 channel for the tweeters or a 4 channel bridged to the knee speakers. I’m going to use an Alpine Pdr-v75 5 channel. It’s a very small amp for the amount of power it produces. I’ll probably replace my old school amp eventually with a smaller D class 4, 5 or, 6 channel. I’m tempted to get a second Alpine, bridge one of them for the front knee speakers 200 watts x 2, 350 watts to the subwoofer, the other 75 x 4 to the midrange and tweeters. I’d also have another subwoofer channel available if I wanted to add a second JL 10tw3. I don’t mind changing speakers, tweaking, testing equipment etc..
You could build a down fire box in the back, up against the rear seats. Fiberglass work isn’t as hard as most people think it is. I’d watch some videos and see if it’s something you’d feel comfortable trying. If you decide to try it make sure you cover everything very well. Resin will stick to everything!

I am still on the fence with the JL Subwoofer. There is something to be said for simplicity and JL likely matched the speaker well. Another big factor for me is theft the stealth box looks stock and is bolted to the Jeep. I bough a Jeep because of soft top and ability to pull off the doors. I am Houston so most of the time I drive the jeep it will be wide open for prying eyes. I though about buying cheap box to just set in the back so if it gets stolen I can replace it without being out several hundred dollars. I already have a Rockford shallow mount 10" so something like this box could work and if its stolen I am not out much money.

Sponsored